DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 i've used some 3M alloy foil tape down the trans tunnel and where the exhaust goes and it cut down the in-car temps massively. I would HIGHLY recommend it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 Yeah was looking into some sort of heat sheild in there too. Just the 2 inch type stuff? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) yeah i think, it's in my thread.]] http://www.shop3m.com/3m-high-temperature-...-425-M0W7G3TRKR this is what i'm using. Edited January 18, 2011 by DRTDVL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 So badass bro, keep it up looking awesome. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 Looking good, when are you planning to have it all back together? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 Hopefully in the next couple weeks or so... funds are pwning me at the moment.Still need to run lines etc. Which reminds me, how would one go about plumbing in the breather for the drop tank? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 20, 2011 Just back from the workshop. Face is pretty burnt. Have fab'd up most of the brackets for the drop tank and swirl pot. Also started pulling the old tanks and lines out. What a huge difference in weight! Anyways, what are the rules re: rear firewall? Does the top of the parcel tray need a cover? Or the whole rear seat bit too? Also, pulled my 260 apart to try and repair it. Spent way too long on it, think I have figured out what is wrong, the main bearing on the output shaft is buggered. So will get a new one tommorow and will order a new set of synchros for 2nd 3rd and 4th. Note the time. bitches. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2011 I was watching UFC at the time you posted that... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted January 21, 2011 Sweet dude! .... Interesting stuff about the gearbox... Was thinking that was something I want to start learning, gearboxes and diffs. There is no reason you cant home repair these things. (not that my car needs any of it) just a cool skill to have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 21, 2011 When pulling the gears out, should it be in a certain gear? I had it in neutral and it now seems stuck in between 2 gears. Can't get the f'n thing out at all. Have tried everything with the selector and it will not work. Anyone else pulled one apart before? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 24, 2011 So today I spent just under $500 on AN fittings, fuel lines, filters etc. Which sucked, a whole lot. One would assume that the people that make the pumps/tanks/lines etc just put stupid fkn sized threads on to get you back to buy the reducers etc. Cheapest local place BTW was GSS. Anywho, have pics which I will upload tommorow. Basically, have cut the spare wheel hole out and put in a flat plate to cover it. Taken all the factory fuel system out, which would weigh atleast 3 times the new setup (dry) , made up some badass mounts for the pumps out of alloy and reinforced/ raised the section where the surge tank will be sitting. Ran out of welding wire so stopped there. Have been looking at ways of running the return line back to the drop tank from the surge tank. Would it be best to have it at an even height to the drop tank so it can just trickle in and have bugger all pressure behind it? Also, what are the regs re: the fuel breather from the drop tank? Can I tap into the factory one? Dave!? All going to plan I should have the fuel setup done tommorow night and will then be waiting for the motor to come back from the motor making fella. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 24, 2011 Ah also, Heath. Your idea seemed to not work. Am totally sure it is becuase I can't be bothered cleaning all the sh*t off the tunnel for it to stick to. So will use the tape elsewhere and make an alloy one Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted January 24, 2011 yeah man i spent a while with max and grease remover cleaning the surface, it's worth the time and effort tho... Stop your wingeing and just do it... =;-P Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted January 24, 2011 Have been looking at ways of running the return line back to the drop tank from the surge tank. Would it be best to have it at an even height to the drop tank so it can just trickle in and have bugger all pressure behind it? Also, what are the regs re: the fuel breather from the drop tank? Can I tap into the factory one? Dave!? This shouldn't matter - when the surge tank is full from the lift pump filling it (ie, all the time except when you're pulling massive Gs) the excess gets pumped out under slight pressure back into the tank. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 25, 2011 I see will just stick to original plan. Have cut the fittings off the tanks and welded me some of the old nipple's that were on the BMW tanks. Recycling FTW Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 25, 2011 Just got back, got a bit done today but was helping a mate put in a windscreen so got a little sidetracked. Welded up all the bracing for the drop tank to go on, the lifter plate for the surge tank and folded some alloy sheet for the pumps to mount on to. Finished the new boot floor, Got a quick lick of paint on the inside of the boot and will seal underneath once the lines are all run. Also going to retro fit a very retro old school sender unit into the pump and callibrate it to recognize my gauge. Was pretty difficult when all the instructions were imperial. Sorted it though and it seems to be doing the trick. Can anyone suggest where the breather from the tank would go? Can I use the factory setup? Note the time again... ahhh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted January 25, 2011 yays .. fuel system has a base ... you have 3-4 weeks to get it back on the road for this feb 19th track day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted January 25, 2011 Where does the drop tank sit? On top of the square tube? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 26, 2011 ^^YEs... why? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted January 26, 2011 Lol. Just curious. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 26, 2011 That's what Ithought. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 26, 2011 Got it all plumbed up. What a pain in the butt. All sorted now though. Last little question, do I need to run the factory fuel regulator somewhere in the system? Not the one on the injector rail but the one next to the ext pump? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted January 26, 2011 That's a pulse dampener. Smooths the flow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted January 26, 2011 Not required. Epic double post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 26, 2011 If it catches fire, going to blame it 100% on you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
