e30 cambelt done but now won't start....?

[Etwenty1 45]

Just got a 1990 e30 325i going that had been sitting for a while. Runs good but no cambelt records so changed the belt and tensioner (my 2nd belt but 1st on a FL 325i) All good, timing marks checked cranks over but no go. Got a flooded smell after a lengthy crank. Checked connectors and all good. Cranked again but no go and no fuel smell. Thought that i would check fuel, spark, air.

Checked fuse 11 (Fuel Pump)and its blown. Changed fuse but still no go.

Items are on my mind,

1) that the lead to the crank sensor (to the side of the flywheel is a bit short and maybe this wire is brittle and broke? It was a struggle to get it clipped back onto the upper cover.

2) i sprayed a bit of carb cleaner into the AFM body to clean some oily residue. (now dry)

3) I have the winscreen washer pump out and sitting in the bay(dont really think that would be an issue apart from shorting out somthing else on that circuit?)

4 why would that fuse blow. Car was running sweet just prior - only other issue is its runs a new battery flat over 1-2 weeks sitting. Was due to check relays.

I will start testing stuff but thought someone may have been here before.....?

Just took AFM body out and checked it was all dry but still no go.

Suggestions please. Cheers

[e30ftw 410]

Start by checking you are getting a spark.

If you aren't then that probably points it straight to the crank sensor benig at fault and I assume you have that plugged in?

There is another plug of th same length that is where the crank sensor plug is on the engine loom, used to plug into the #6 inductive pickup, if that was not plugged in you may have plugged the crank sensor into that instead so you might wanna check that.

I have a mint crank sensor if you end up needing one, just PM me and can flick it of to you cheap..

Whoops i'll prob add I just skim-read your post lol, your talking about no fuel my bad...

Edited January 25, 2010 by e30ftw

[dirtydoogle 383]

I would be checking the wire you mentioned to the CAS and checking for spark

[Etwenty1 45]

Start by checking you are getting a spark.

If you aren't then that probably points it straight to the crank sensor benig at fault and I assume you have that plugged in?

There is another plug of th same length that is where the crank sensor plug is on the engine loom, used to plug into the #6 inductive pickup, if that was not plugged in you may have plugged the crank sensor into that instead so you might wanna check that.

I have a mint crank sensor if you end up needing one, just PM me and can flick it of to you cheap..

Whoops i'll prob add I just skim-read your post lol, your talking about no fuel my bad...

Cheers for that, that fuel pump fuse hasn't blown again. When i un-bolted the sensor the plug stayed on, i just put it to one side.

I did notice a "spare " connector up under the inlet manifold between the iVC and the brake booster. Is that the one you mean?

[e30ftw 410]

Nah loko at where your crank sensor is plugged into, watch the wire were it goes into the engine loom, the same place another plug of the same wire length comes out there too. Sometimes easy to get them mixed up, but if you have not touched them then there shouldn't be an issue..

Bad crank sensor will cause there to be no spark anyhow so start checking the basics and see how you go.

[Etwenty1 45]

Nah loko at where your crank sensor is plugged into, watch the wire were it goes into the engine loom, the same place another plug of the same wire length comes out there too. Sometimes easy to get them mixed up, but if you have not touched them then there shouldn't be an issue..

Bad crank sensor will cause there to be no spark anyhow so start checking the basics and see how you go.

I have a good spark and plenty of juice in the battery but look like i have no fuel. I replaced the fuel pump only weeks ago with a 2nd hand unit. Is that just Murphy's law or is there a fault that can burn out fuel pumps?

[Greg111 13]

Being a second hand unit you never know how long these things will last. If there is no fuel coming out the feed line when the key is on and/or cranking then it's either the pump or the tank is empty.

[hotwire 352]

Being a second hand unit you never know how long these things will last. If there is no fuel coming out the feed line when the key is on and/or cranking then it's either the pump or the tank is empty.

or power supply to the pump (green/purple from memory) - check fuel pump relay

[Greg111 13]

Ah yes power supply.

[Etwenty1 45]

Ah yes power supply.

Looks like a pump issue. Have spark, 12v to the pump, with relay jumpered the pump just gives a heavy click but doesn't run.

I read that an e36 (318i) pump can be fitted onto the original e30 pump bracket. Is that right anyone?

Alternatively i am now in the market for another 2nd hand unit.

Cheers

[Etwenty1 45]

Ah yes power supply.

Continuing on...... i managed to get a 2nd hand fuel pump wired onto my bracket and thats now running. The other pump had just jammed. New pump hums away nicely when i jump the relay and also when cranking. Haven't checked fuel pressure but it smells like gas is flowing.

So i now have spark and fuel but still no go. Is there a way to bypass or manually adjust the AFM to check air is getting in?

Its not even firing.

[Silver Fox 43]

I was always told you need 5 things to make an engine run, spark, fuel, compression, air and timing. My guess if you have all the others, is timing, not 180 degrees out is it?

[Etwenty1 45]

I was always told you need 5 things to make an engine run, spark, fuel, compression, air and timing. My guess if you have all the others, is timing, not 180 degrees out is it?

Good point, i did check the timing marks at the time and a second check with the dis cap off shows things roughly where they should be.

Have swapped ICV, Fuel pump relay and the one next to it with another car and no change.

Have re-checked AFM gate mechanisim.

I did fingd the collars of the ICV were loose from a re-assebly slip and thought yeah, have tightened up, dried off plugs but still no go.

F--K !!! ...... quite frustrating. May have to take to a mechanic.

Any ideas?

I have fuel, spark and a AFM that opens smoothly.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

shows things roughly where they should be.

Heres your issue? Should be exactly lined up

[*Glenn* 854]

What do you mean timing roughly where it should be ??? It's either right or wrong... hope you didnt crank the motor when the belt was off.... do you have compression on all 6 cylinders ??

[Etwenty1 45]

What do you mean timing roughly where it should be ??? It's either right or wrong... hope you didnt crank the motor when the belt was off.... do you have compression on all 6 cylinders ??

Sorry, I am very sure the timing is correct. I removed the dis cap and kicked the starter until the notch in the cam sprocket was at 12 O clock, looking through a smal mirror then took a peek with a torch down at the crank marks. Without a full dismantle its difficult to be 100% but its certainly not 180 degress out. I did rotate the engine twice and checked marks during original belt change.

It all went back together then the fuel pump seized and blew the fuse.

Changed for a second hand unit which isnow running but still no go.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

even with the lines lining up it can still be 180 degrees out, as the cam shaft rotates twice for every turn of the crank (or other way round cant remember off the top of my head).

[Etwenty1 45]

even with the lines lining up it can still be 180 degrees out, as the cam shaft rotates twice for every turn of the crank (or other way round cant remember off the top of my head).

You are right, the crank turns twice for each revolution of the cam. So on the first rotation the cam is 180 then 360 on the second. I was very careful not to move either whikle changing the belt but if i gues i will have to strip and check if all else fails.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

You are right, the crank turns twice for each revolution of the cam. So on the first rotation the cam is 180 then 360 on the second. I was very careful not to move either whikle changing the belt but if i gues i will have to strip and check if all else fails.

If the engine ran fine on the old belt and you swear you didnt rotate the crank or cam then it wont be that, assuming you rechecked after putting on the tensioner. Would not want that skiping a few teeth!

did the engine run sweet before you worked on it? (sorry if you have said yes)

[hotwire 352]

Sorry, I am very sure the timing is correct. I removed the dis cap and kicked the starter until the notch in the cam sprocket was at 12 O clock, looking through a smal mirror then took a peek with a torch down at the crank marks. Without a full dismantle its difficult to be 100% but its certainly not 180 degress out. I did rotate the engine twice and checked marks during original belt change.

It all went back together then the fuel pump seized and blew the fuse.

Changed for a second hand unit which isnow running but still no go.

Cam sprocket at 12 O'clock? Stand to be corrected but off hand I am sure the cam timing mark is to the left of 12 o'clock - a mark on the head. As Glenn said - compression test??

[Etwenty1 45]

Cam sprocket at 12 O'clock? Stand to be corrected but off hand I am sure the cam timing mark is to the left of 12 o'clock - a mark on the head. As Glenn said - compression test??

I am sure the belt is on right. Yep had all the plugs out to make sure it wasn't flooded and did compression test - OK,

Gonna check the ECU and CPS then i will have no choice but to strip and check belt again i guess.

Oh yeah did i say i drained the fuel and put fresh gas in too?

[hotwire 352]

Have just checked a head - timing mark on the head at about 2 o'clock. If you have lined it up to 12 o'clock as you say then it is wrong

[Etwenty1 45]

Have just checked a head - timing mark on the head at about 2 o'clock. If you have lined it up to 12 o'clock as you say then it is wrong

My check was only to see that i was not 180 out. I am confident the timing is OK. Was very careful during removal and re-fitting.

Just pulled the fuel hose off the rail after cranking for a while and there was no pressure. jumped the FP relay and fuel runs out of the hose but it seems to be under light pressure.

I have the FP reglator off, not sure of that makes any diff.

IE i ran the fuel hose in to garden hose then into a bucket. I am able to block the end of the hose quite easily and the pressure does not build up.

Does anyone know what pressure the fuel shoud be under. The new 2nd hand pump i put in had a larger diameter output hose than mine. I heard that some models have 2 pumps, anyone know if they run at the same pressure?

[hotwire 352]

There are two types of in tank pump in E30's. One is purely a lift pump (low pressure) that feeds the main pump under floor in front of L/R wheel.

The other is a main high pressure pump, in this case - no second external pump is fitted.

The fuel pressure is around 34 PSI in both systems.

If you have low pressure in place of high pressure then obviously car will be no go.

[Etwenty1 45]

There are two types of in tank pump in E30's. One is purely a lift pump (low pressure) that feeds the main pump under floor in front of L/R wheel.

The other is a main high pressure pump, in this case - no second external pump is fitted.

The fuel pressure is around 34 PSI in both systems.

If you have low pressure in place of high pressure then obviously car will be no go.

That may have cracked it..........TBA. Thanks for the suggestions.