Anyone keent to swap my Diff ?

[APT 195]

Okay ive been trying to swap my diff over in my e30 and i will admit im not very DIY when it comes to mechanical things i think my ability stops at springs and shocks lol.

So is anyone in auckland keen to swap a diff from my donor car into my car then back again.? will pay cash, beers, whatever and can drive both cars in Auckland(closer to manukau the better).

Thanks Andrew

[CamB 48]

You can do it - its an easy job (although the diffs are HEAVY so be careful). 12x allen head bolts (clean the heads out, use the proper tool), 4x on the driveshaft, and the diff's mounting bolts...

Reassemble, and make sure the allen bolts in particular are properly torqued up (personally, I check them after driving for a bit).

(edit) I paint a line across each of the bolts, from the flange to the head of the bolt, and visually check none have come undone. Its on the race car, so I feel justified for being a bit anal as the consequences of getting it wrong are kinda stink.

Edited February 5, 2010 by CamB

[*Glenn* 854]

So is anyone in auckland keen to swap a diff from my donor car into my car then back again.? will pay cash, beers, whatever and can drive both cars in Auckland(closer to manukau the better).

What do you consider to be a fair price to do this??

2 Cars, swap diffs, are they both medium case diffs ??

[APT 195]

Both Medium case, I would not know on a 'fair' price Glenn. How long would you say it takes ? i gave it ago and cant get the bolts off the driveshaft.

[topcat 11]

Both Medium case, I would not know on a 'fair' price Glenn. How long would you say it takes ? i gave it ago and cant get the bolts off the driveshaft.

i got a hoist.can have a look for you.keep your beers,but i'll take you money tho

cheers marty

[e30ftw 410]

Are you talking about the 4 bolts on the input of the diff? Keep the car in gear or have the handbrake on to stop it from spinning and get a 17mm spanner and just whack it until they are freed.

If you know what you are doing you can have it done in an hour.

[Nobimmer 694]

Yeah piss easy job mate. Just systematically unbolt everything till it comes off.

This is how I would do it, others may want to change some bits around.

1. Unbolt the 6 hex keys on each half shaft. Make sure the car is in gear/pull hand brake up. Otherwise it will be a c*nt of a job with two allen keys.

2. Undo the 4 drive shaft bolts, again in gear so it doesn't spin. These will probably be tight as so lube/heat them up and get a decent power bar/2 spanners onto it and undo them.

3. Undo the diff hanger bolt, have the diff supported by a jack or your ex girlfriend.

Should now be on the ground. Repeat backwards for installation.

[e30ftw 410]

^ What he said.

Theres also 4 19mm bolts ontop too holding it to the subframe.

[Nobimmer 694]

Ahh right, and them too.

[APT 195]

Have attempted to do all that. The Driveshaft bolts are a bi*** to get off though.. seems way to tight to do it by hand.

[Forrest 35]

^ Have you got a decent 1/4in socket set? Buy a allen key attachment for it and/or a small breaker bar. Use CRC Penetrate let it soak in for 5 min or so, I don't bother using allen keys anymore, these work far better will get them loose without destroying your hands and also help tighten them up enough so they don't come loose when you go for a drive, ask me how I know. Remember Andrew, it's not a car it's an education don't pay someone else to do it, it's all about learning and trial and error. - Nath

Edit: If you have the rear of the car on axle stands under the subframe, use a trolley jack to jack up each trailing arm on the side you want to get the bolts off, it will help keep it square and stop the rubber axle boots getting in the way, making it easier to get them undone. A 19mm ratchet spanner will save your life getting the top subframe bolts undone, as will drilling a couple of holesaw holes in your boot floor to tighten them later with a 1/2inch socket set, so they will never come loose again

Edited February 5, 2010 by Forrest

[APT 195]

Thanks nathan, i totally forgot about the CRC stuff you told me about.. Will give it another crack tomorrow. Cheers Guys.

[Forrest 35]

^ Good man.

IMO apart from a rear sub frame removal + installation, I found it the hardest, most PITA job on a E30.

CRC Penetrate is magic.

Best of luck.

Edited February 5, 2010 by Forrest

[Linden 0]

CRC does wonders, even when putting things back together making finger tightening old bolts easy...

I used an allen key with a pipe on the end for leverage (eg sparkplug tube from toolkit) and hooked spanners end to end to get the driveshaft ones off they're a bitch if they havnt moved in a while so get that crc in there

[APT 195]

Should i drain all the oil out of the diff first ?

[Eagle 1662]

Unless you want to change oil whiles its out you dont need to

[e30ftw 410]

You can use a t-50 torx socket on the end of a ratchet. Much much faster.

[Carl 3]

Definitely DEFINITELY get the rachet key attachment as this seriously speeds up the half axles and makes that part so much easier. Only difficult part IMO is lining the diff up when bolting back in, need trolley jack for this as nathan said, you can do this alone just have patience.