CamB 48 Report post Posted October 28, 2010 (edited) I sourced a two channel Mitsi igniter from pickapart for $35, including the wasted spark coils ... - could you use two of them? (edit - from a 4 cylinder GDi Lancer) Edited October 28, 2010 by CamB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted October 28, 2010 I sourced a two channel Mitsi igniter from pickapart for $35, including the wasted spark coils ... - could you use two of them? (edit - from a 4 cylinder GDi Lancer) Yep could use two of those, So far my igniter owes me $40 which is ok for an experiment. Pickapart is definatly plan B should it not work. I have a disease where if I need a part I tend to design and build my own if i can instead of getting off the shelf items. 9/10 times it saves a few $$ and I get to understand how/why things work. Just takes twice as long... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted October 28, 2010 Stop working on your car... BUILD MY SHIFTER! hehe =;-P Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted November 7, 2010 Well into the wiring this weekend, what a mission of a job! Thanks Ray @ Hell BM for the starter motor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted November 10, 2010 The obligatory Uh-oh Spaghetti-oh pic of an ecu install.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gouba 0 Report post Posted November 10, 2010 (edited) Are you making a custom wiring loom because that looks like pain all spooled up in metres of wiring? Edited November 10, 2010 by gouba Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted November 10, 2010 Yep all new engine loom. Will be able to unplug at the fire wall connector, lift it out, and drop in the factory one if need be. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted November 11, 2010 (edited) criiiinge. Good luck mate! E spelling Edited November 11, 2010 by Indecorous Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Quinn 1 Report post Posted November 18, 2010 Just out of curiosity do you know what the volume of the plenum is? I met an awesome guy on a photo shoot who had engineered pretty much everything little on his car by himself, studying every aspect as he went (he was an engineer by trade). The car was a Mitzi Mirage rally car (N/A) and it was an absolute work of art. He said he looked at motorbike engineering a lot for info and inspiration on N/A motors and he said he discovered an important aspect was the size of the plenum/cold air box in front of the throttle bodies. He said that having a minimum of twice the capacity of the motor (i.e 2000cc would need a 4000cc plenum) meant there was always a cold charge of air ready to go into the motor, therefore the motor wasn't having to "pull" air in. Obviously this gets harder to achieve with larger motors as you quickly run out of room in the engine bay but it makes sense and if you can squeeze out any more room for the plenum/air box you should give it a go. Probably to late for this build but I think it's an interesting concept. P.S Love what you are doing on this build, I'll be following this as you progress!! criiiinge. Good luck mate! E spelling Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted November 18, 2010 Hi Quinn, To be honest measuring the plenum volume is a hard thing to do (in a ITB setup) in the sense of where do you measure from? I can get the volume of the plenum I designed easy enough from cad yet the ducting from there forward to the air box and the engine side of the filter can still be considered the plenum as it is part of the same volume. where do you stop? Volume is important when you have a throttle plate in front of the plenum like most factory cars however once you have ITB's the plenum is now effectively the volume behind the throttle plate up to the valve head the rest is just ducting to get the air there as efficiently as possible. I think there are two possible theory’s 1) The plenum volume is critical for taking advantage of pulse/acoustic tuning for dragging every last bit of power out of the engine though only at a particular RPM (where pulse/acoustic tuning works for you at one RPM it will be working against you somewhere else) 2) The plenum volume on a ITB setup should be such that it does not restrict the air flow, yet is so large it allows air to stagnate and heat up before being sucked into the engine. Which is what the mitsi guy you met was saying? The volume is restricted as you say by space which is where he may have come up with his volume to performance relationship Its an interesting subject with lots of ideas out there. I went for the minimal restriction theory... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted November 28, 2010 Minor Update, but for me quite exciting Most of the wiring is done to the point I have put the battery in and started setting up the ecu and testing circuits. Of what i have tested so far (temp sensors, TPS) all are working, though the innovate LC1 is yet to talk to the ecu. Also tested the diy 4 channel igniter and it works Will see how it lasts but for now $40 vs $400 for the equivalent bosch part im happy. Aiming for next weekend for first start. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 4, 2010 Yahooo! its alive! After a few epic back fires and an ingnition change it started up to a steady 1500rpm idle! Time for a beer. Next step is finish wiring, and get it moving under its own power. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1044 Report post Posted December 5, 2010 tits Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 15, 2010 Wiring is complete. The wiring retains the factory data link connector minus ecu connection but allows connection to all other conponents, ie, service light reset etc. The loom itself is removable using factory connectors so if I ever want to I can plug the factory stuff back in. All tuning cables are accesable through the glove box and all other loggers etc are hidden away. The next step it to tune the engine on the road to build a safe base map for the engine and enjoy it a bit. While thats happening build the airbox and runners. This will require a battery relocation so this will be a phase 1.2 deal. CNC of the mold should start next week with laying up carbon over the summer break. Once the air box and possible exhaust is installed final tuning on the dyno will be done. Just pleased its all back together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kerry 10 Report post Posted December 15, 2010 very tidy man, hope the hp is quite a substantial gain for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 15, 2010 Cheers kerry, It will be interesting to see if/how much of a gain it is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted December 15, 2010 Awesome Matt, I admire the DIY'ness of this project, would love to have knowledge like this one day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 16, 2010 Cheers Nath, Had to learn alot along the way. The final proof of if i did a good job will be on the dyno... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30guydownunder 2 Report post Posted December 17, 2010 That plenum is rather sexy. Thought on how it would hold up to boost if over built?? In any case, sticking around to watch this one! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 17, 2010 Cheers Chris, Recognise your handle from m42club. The plenum isnt designed for boost, would need a rethink in how the mounting plate attaches to the plenum. In theory i dont see why something like that could not be built to be boost worthy. Overall volume may be less than optimal resulting in a bit of lag. The carbon i hope to use is phenolic based pre-preg which is used to build fire proof walls in aircraft so heat shouldnt be an isssue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 18, 2010 (edited) Just been out in the garage running the car. It still starts which is good, however as it came up to temperature at ~1500rpm i noticed a wee wisp of steam from the radiator and a few drips of coolant on the floor. Not good. So this may mean I have either A. overheated the engine though the coolant temp stayed in the usuall center dial position. I had an external fan as well as engine fans running as i was worried about things getting to hot.. or B. i have a naff radiator which is only now exhibiting a leak all be it tiny after being sat in the garage for so long and at 18yrs of age has decided this was an oportune moment to cark it. Any thoughts? What is the max coolant temp the enginr sensor should see in deg c? Edited December 18, 2010 by MLM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 19, 2010 Option B it is... i hope. Engine temps were well within maximum at the time the rad developed the leak. So this leaves a few questions. 1) replace it with direct factory replacement. $300 2) Since the motor is a little "hotter" now should i take the opportunity to go for the larger 328 style radiator and if i did what extra work/expence/hassel/gain would this give me. $??? header tanks look like they could be an issue as the arrangement looks different? Any thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 24, 2010 Roight, sortid.. full aluminium radiator it is... While fitting it i have a few problems which i could turn into opportunities. 1) The aircon is shot and has been since i got the car. While im there i could remove the condensor to improve air flow to the rad further. 2) The rad is designed for a 6 cylinder so i need to fit a different/new expansion tank. This may require some custom work to mount it sooo.. What if i were to move the rad back by 100mm with a aluminium shroud to seal around it to the front ducting air though it. The reason for this is that it offers the opportunity tp fit a duct off the side to feed the air box which also dosnt exist at the moment. This could take advantage of any high pressure created at the front of the car to over come pressure loss and maybe gain a +tve pressure in the air box at speed.... At least it would be a guaranteed cold air feed... Looked like a good idea just now in the garage at least, could be the tequila though.. Pics and concepts later. tell me what you think good idea or not? Merry Christmas everyone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted December 25, 2010 Patron Tequila liquor = good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 28, 2010 (edited) Started figuring out how to fit the larger 328 style ali rad today. To do this i took a 325/8 expansion chamber the 318is fan shroud and made up a bunch of brackets to support it all. Upper expansion tank bracket, Mounts the shroud and tank to the rad Bottom bracket for additional support The whole lot fitted. A bit snug but still plenty of clearance between parts and looks acceptable I didnt go for the air bypass idea as packaging was tight but it still may be on the cards for the future. Edited December 28, 2010 by MLM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
