What are signs of worn brakes?

[Gotheschu 1]

Hey.

When is it time to put new rotors and pads in? And whats the best value for money pads to a E30?

Im asking this because I drove my car today for the first time and the brakes are useless haha like foot full down and its probably as effective as 3/10 pressure on the x5 and 540i....

any ideas =)

Edited December 1, 2010 by Gotheschu

[hotwire 352]

Sounds like air in the system if the pedal goes right down. Bleed them

[Lucan 196]

Might be worth looking at replacing the brake lines too? They're prob a tad old now.

[polley 916]

I got new rotors and pads from BNT for like $160 trade price.

[Gotheschu 1]

I got new rotors and pads from BNT for like $160 trade price.

how are they holding up?

[polley 916]

I havent driven the car much, but they have sustained some pretty spirited driving and hard stops. They would not suit a track car tho. ( I did manage to smoke them eventually, I am bit of a pussy and ride the brakes into corners a bit tho.)

Edited December 1, 2010 by polley

[antil33t 90]

Whip your wheel off and check the pads? you can do that without removing anything.

You'll probably want new pads and fresh fluid as a minimum before you take that on the track regardless.

[Lucan 196]

Whip your wheel off and check the pads? you can do that without removing anything.

[CamB 48]

If you're gonna race it you NEED:

- race pads

- race fluid

and you should consider

- new / braided lines (at very least make sure the old ones aren't cracked or bulging out)

- new discs

[Gotheschu 1]

If you're gonna race it you NEED:

- race pads

- race fluid

and you should consider

- new / braided lines (at very least make sure the old ones aren't cracked or bulging out)

- new discs

Whats the best value for money pads/fluid/lines? And where can i get them?

[E30 325i Rag-Top 2916]

Whats the best value for money pads/fluid/lines? And where can i get them?

Lots of stuff in the technical section of the race series forum Jack, and the arguments on which pads to use will go on for ever! There is a balance to be had between how much they cost v how long they last v how well they stop you. It all comes down to $$$s at the end of the day.

Most people say that EBC are cr@p pads, but I still run with them as they are relatively cheap ($180 front set yellow, $144 rear set yellow) and last a season and a bit for me whilst still working ok.

[CamB 48]

Whats the best value for money pads/fluid/lines? And where can i get them?

Since you asked me I'd better respond... I don't know.

Try figure out who's good at braking in the E30s and what they use. Like Jon says, I am sure there are plenty of opinions and options. I used Mintex in the front of the 2002 and they lasted well, as did the OEM rotors. Fluid HAS TO be full on race fluid (don't try and compromise with something that might be good enough) and the lines might as well be braided as the cost isn't that much different to rubber really.

Braking is expensive business, unfortunately. You should be happy - at least all the stuff on an E30 is cheap in the scheme of things (try pricing up an M3 floating disc).

[antil33t 90]

Whats the best value for money pads/fluid/lines? And where can i get them?

Sims brakes seem pretty decent?

Know anyone that can get Trade price at BNT or similar?

[CamB 48]

Are BNT going to stock race compound pads?

[antil33t 90]

are race compound pads going to be value for money? haha.

[Jacko 2084]

I priced up a set of flash DBA rotors from BNT, at trade, for an E30, the discount wasnt so flash

Went into the "yikes" pile. 4-5 Sets of segedins $50 rotors for the price of one DBA set.

Edited December 7, 2010 by Jacko

[E30 325i Rag-Top 2916]

are race compound pads going to be value for money? haha.

Erm, on a race car, probably? I don't know of any road compound pads that would last the distance of even our races before fading very badly.