E30 suspension setups

[Murdock 16]

Hi there. I'm just trying to get a feel for what suspension setup people would recommend for my E30 M325? I bought the car a few months back, knowing that the car was lower than ideal (at least for use as a daily driver) but with the intention of altering the setup at some point. Well, that point has arrived, hastened by the discovery of a leaking front shock (what I believe to be a factory original part) as well as couple of large cracks developing in the rear bumer valance. I am tempted by King springs (low as opposed to super low), but was wondering if it is worthwhile getting the offending damper repaired or should I plump for a new set of KYBs or similar? Any information would be much appreciated, as I'm pretty open to suggestions at this stage. Cheers.

[Silvers13 0]

Hi there. I'm just trying to get a feel for what suspension setup people would recommend for my E30 M325? I bought the car a few months back, knowing that the car was lower than ideal (at least for use as a daily driver) but with the intention of altering the setup at some point. Well, that point has arrived, hastened by the discovery of a leaking front shock (what I believe to be a factory original part) as well as couple of large cracks developing in the rear bumer valance. I am tempted by King springs (low as opposed to super low), but was wondering if it is worthwhile getting the offending damper repaired or should I plump for a new set of KYBs or similar? Any information would be much appreciated, as I'm pretty open to suggestions at this stage. Cheers.

H&R spring plus billstein shocks

[AN E30 Fan 1]

^This.

I have Bilstein shocks and king springs in mine and its great but in reality I would like to upgrade to H&R sometime soon.

[bmpower 3]

H&R springs and KONI shocks

[Jacko 2156]

Whiteline adjustable sway bars, middle setting on the rear, polyurethane bushes on everything and 6kg BC goldswound up to 25 clicks. +LSD

= Go kart fun, maybe slightly too much go kart for some, as the rear can be a slighty hyperactive (but very controllable) but setting the rear sway to the lower setting would likely reduce the oversteer.

1000miles of driving this set up and its a blast! Turn in is wicked, and its epically predictable.

EDIT - I have 2 degrees camber on the front and 3 on the back, which is likely adding to my oversteer too! Next wheel alignment ill get the front to 3.

Edited February 1, 2011 by Jacko

[tcbaurpower 5]

6kg BC goldswound up to 25 clicks.

What are these??

I have been looking at this aswell.

Obviously there are numerous options on springs and shock combos. However do any of these come in a set? Are H&R designed to go with Billstein etc? Also what is the OEM setup and are these other options better for some reason other than getting a nice ride height... anyone just got new oem?

... if I was to just replace all the bushes with OEM parts not Polyurethane. Do I have to get them pressed in?? I would be burning the old ones out.

Lots of questions haha come on experts input advice.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

you can get sets. the most common is probably the H&R cup kit, but the shocks it comes with are sh*t. i have them and upgraded to bilsteins, so running the cup springs with bilstein sport shocks. im not sure if the cup springs are available seperatly, but they are supposedly the best (havent driven on H&Rs though so cant quote experience)

[Jacko 2156]

BC golds - Cheap height adjustble coil overs with camber hats, pillow balls, and 30 way shocks. Bang 4 Buck.

[E30-323ti 66]

BC golds - Cheap height adjustble coil overs with camber hats, pillow balls, and 30 way shocks. Bang 4 Buck.

+ Certification Required

[APT 195]

+1 BC Golds are awesome !!! Ive got them in my car and are the BEST bang for Buck

[Jacko 2156]

Yup you'll need a cert for the BC golds, but if you add it all up the price is still comparable to HR+konis etc and you get a lot more for ya dollar. Add another $k for bars and bushes. Dont get a flash H&R and koni sticker though

Should really add, that the steering feels like a totally different car. Standard e30 manual (no p/s) rack used to feel like a bus with its low ratio, totally the opposite now as it feels quite "darty" and needs to be consciously driven.

Edited February 2, 2011 by Jacko

[|ncary 0]

Buy some H&R springs from here and some Koni shocks that the race series guys use. Best thing to do if you are a noob.

BC Golds... Looks like they are about 1800 or so judging by a quick search.

Ground control. Koni shocks, Konis, real sh*t, valved to match any spring rate you choose, using Eibach springs. Currently 1950 NZD plus shipping (about 200) for a much, much better product. Then GST.

If you are going to go to coilovers, why not do it properly with proper 'race' style brands? For about half a grands difference.. And GC isn't made in Taiwan. Personally that's a huge issue for me while bottoming out with a full g load. Konis are proven shocks. BC golds are not. Who knows what they put in them?? (Rhetorical)

GC is a true mid-range kit. It's the real bang for buck at under 2.5k.

[Forrest 35]

In terms of bang for buck, IMO best thing is to make friends with a E30 race series driver and buy their Koni adjustiable shock + King Spring set up, no drama pissing around with certs and it all bolts in straight out of the box. Works great on the road with the added benefit of adjusting the rebound if you want to try a few track days etc.

And it's not like the set up isn't proven to work brilliantly either, unlike BC whatevers or anything.

My 2c.

Edited February 3, 2011 by Brams

[skidz 197]

Have a look on the Ireland Engineering website, search Tech articles, E30 suspendsion set up, it gives recommendations from street to full race

www.bmw2002.com

[tcbaurpower 5]

Have a look on the Ireland Engineering website, search Tech articles, E30 suspendsion set up, it gives recommendations from street to full race

www.bmw2002.com

Stage one sounds good to me....

H&R Springs, Blistein shocks, larger sway bars (would a 325i bar be a good upgrade?) new urethane bushings. Need to sort some prices, shopping for parts is fun.

[APT 195]

I Bought my BC's for less than 2/3 of that price, and can get it for cheaper if you know the right people..

Edited February 3, 2011 by APT

[Jacko 2156]

^ +1 I paid nearly half that.

How are they are MUCH MUCH better product Incary?, Im eager too know. Is it because theyre made in the US? (a country renowned for its engineering abilities (lmfao) )

What is the point of an adjustable shock if its valved for the spring rate?

Looking at others using ground control setup on an E30, the range of height adjustment on the BC's is much greater.

BC carry a two year replacement warranty, and are rebuildable.

I have had koni adjustables in my old porsche, great shocks, are they better to drive on than BC's? Nope, better engineered? Not that I can see, and spotting engineering defects is what I do for a living.

A mate has professionally built drift cars using BC golds (AKA BR Type), and has never seen one fail despite "excursions" from the track, half the reason I chose to use em. I looked at the GC's and weighed the two up, they really dont have anything over the BC's except for price, both are entry level setups.

BC also do the ER's which have external reservoirs with both bound and rebound adjustment.

Paying for quality and paying for a perceived quality/branding are two different things

[DRTDVL 0]

Currently 1950 NZD plus shipping (about 200) for a much, much better product. Then GST.

GC is a true mid-range kit. It's the real bang for buck at under 2.5k.

For that price you could get some bilstiens custom valved to match your desired spring rate. KW and Leda arn't much more than either.

Adjustable Height is a waste of time and needs certing. Get a decent set of adjustable damper (rebound) shocks and some springs (decide if you want handling or looks) if you want to have adjustment control. Most of the damper adjustments on low / mid range shocks are not linear and can be a pain to get setup correctly to your car.

Also realize that driving style / personal taste will dictate if the car is too firm in places or too soft in places, what i think is perfect could be the worst handling car for you.

[Apex 693]

In terms of bang for buck, IMO best thing is to make friends with a E30 race series driver and buy their Koni adjustiable shock + King Spring set up, no drama pissing around with certs and it all bolts in straight out of the box. Works great on the road with the added benefit of adjusting the rebound if you want to try a few track days etc.

And it's not like the set up isn't proven to work brilliantly either, unlike BC whatevers or anything.

My 2c.

Agree. The race springs are good, slightly stiff on the really ruff stuff like gravel but I loved mine.

Off the shelf coil overs are quite useless in NZ.

Edited February 3, 2011 by Apex

[|ncary 0]

How are they are MUCH MUCH better product Incary?, Im eager too know. Is it because theyre made in the US? (a country renowned for its engineering abilities (lmfao) )

The important part of the kit is the Koni yellow bits that dampen the up/down movement, oh yeah they are called shocks. They are made in the Netherlands if I recall correctly

What is the point of an adjustable shock if its valved for the spring rate?

The rebound adjustment makes all the difference you nunce. (Also this is where I realised you don't have any idea about how suspension does it thing. but this isn't the thread for analysing complicated stuff like that)

Looking at others using ground control setup on an E30, the range of height adjustment on the BC's is much greater.

60mm of adjustment on the GC kit is not much smaller than the 80mm or so these BC golds do.

BC carry a two year replacement warranty, and are rebuildable.

And you're going to have to use it too. Konis are rebuildable.

I have had koni adjustables in my old porsche, great shocks, are they better to drive on than BC's? Nope, better engineered? Not that I can see, and spotting engineering defects is what I do for a living.

You are not a race car driver. You couldn't tell the difference between KYB's and AST's, Factory Bilstiens to Motons, and ZXR250 forks with stock internals to ones with Ohlins racing gear, I bet.

A mate has professionally built drift cars using BC golds (AKA BR Type), and has never seen one fail despite "excursions" from the track, half the reason I chose to use em. I looked at the GC's and weighed the two up, they really dont have anything over the BC's except for price, both are entry level setups.

I also have many 'mates' who 'professionally' build 'drift cars' and they all use Tien, sure BC gold is used quite often in the 'drift' scene, but you'll only find them on the drift hacks, not the winning cars. The GC kit has a reputable shock and spring supplier/manufacturer, and things like: proper 'aircraft grade' bearings, low stack height camber/caster plates, low numbers run of parts to ensure quality control, updated designs almost yearly as feedback comes in from customers, the ability to use the stock struts at the front instead of some grainy 'steel' painted a nice black/gold to look quality, a phone where they actually build the kit which you ring them on and ask for advice to do with your setup because they are experienced mo-fos. What is a BC Gold distributor going to know about them? Except 'ohhh umm you turn the clickly wheel 24 clicks left at the front and 17 at the back, should be mint'. To say that BC golds are equal to Koni/eibach is to denounce multiple race series' all around the world that use either/both of those brands. (just quietly, I don't think Koni is bribing people to use their stuff oh look a patonising winky face)

BC also do the ER's which have external reservoirs with both bound and rebound adjustment.

*massive fake orgasm sound*

Paying for quality and paying for a perceived quality/branding are two different things

There's that patronising winky face again ^, oh how does it go? Oh yes (lmfao) (in brackets of course)

You really do get what you pay for, and to get custom valved koni shocks. If you want something that you can wind up and down with a nice stiff ride for cruising around in; go BC Gold. (I must have adjusted the height in my car maybe twice in the past 12 months by the way, and I'm a fiddler. Height adjustment is a gimmick)

But if you want something that you can attack a targa stage/summit rd/track day without your suspension breaking off if you go off track (as you said^) or the shocks overheating and fading, then using a company that has these things in mind is your best bet.

Here's what's going to happen: you'll reply with more jibber jabber, nathan will commend me for this post, someone with real experience will comment, and I'll have to bust out the 'I'm setting up a R34 Targa winning car's suspension, communicating with the driver and adjusting some amazing 10k shocks to suit his preferences' line.

[Jacko 2156]

Jibber Jabber.

If your happy with your 2k+ yellow shocks and shiny red springs, good for you, have a cookie.

Back to the original post, Im more than happy with my half the price black ones.

Height adjustability is a gimmick, but its still better than no adjustability. Installing new springs that dont have it sitting quite right is a annoying.

Last time I checked this wasnt a race car, and nope I cant tell the difference between koni's and BC golds to drive on, I bet 99.9% of the drivers in the world couldnt, theyre friggin adjustable you egg, the whole point is that you can tweak em (in rebound) to what feels right too you...

[Silver Fox 43]

Easy boys, unless you are a very good driver you wouldn't know the difference, so really personal preference as to value for buck.

Like, do you like red cars or black ones, red ones are faster I'm told, eh Andy?

[Mike 1]

99.9% of drivers aren't Incary so would most likely be perfectly happy with BC golds, for those that are theres Koni's.

FWIW i loved my old e30 on (standard) bilsteins with whiteline springs, more than good enough for an amature hack

[CamB 48]

1) Make sure you get the M3-style offset front control arm bushings - they add caster and this really helps (especially when you can't adjust camber)

2) There's a lot focus on height adjustment etc and do you really need to do it. What coilovers are actually useful for is corner balancing the car (which few people will do) and since the coilovers use smaller diameter springs they can use camber plates to adjust the camber.

You don't need any part of (2) on a street car. Its kinda nice, but with a cert - kinda expensive. Arguably you also don't really need it on a race car - the series cars get around most tracks pretty fast on the series setup.

If you're going to all the effort to have adjustable camber at the front, and the car will be low, you really should be thinking about a modified rear subframe to allow camber and toe adjustment as E30s get pretty out of whack when they get low. Again - not needed on a street car (unless its very low).

Edited February 4, 2011 by CamB

[Forrest 35]

I commend you Henry, love your work as per