BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) Hi guys so I finally decided to put my e36 build on Bimmersport. I did the sub frame reinforcement last summer, but did not fully freshen up the back end as I started a new job and needed the car going. So basically I am picking up from where i left off. My aim is to build this car as a daily driver, which I can take to the track and enjoy! I have been collecting all my parts over the last 6 months. It’s amazing of all the things you can add into the build as you think away. A lot of this stuff will be a first for me, so any feedback or guidance would be helpful. So… what I have done so far: Engine KnN Cold air intake and air box AC delete 16†electric fan and controller with temp Suspension & Subframe Derlin offset caster bushes for front control arms M3 evo 23.3mm sway bar and drop links Sachs sporting suspension and springs Ultra racing front and rear strut braces Ruff rear shock mounts and reinforcement plates Ruff subframe bush kit & oem subframe diff bush Reinforced subframe with m3 plates welded to chassis Reinforced swaybar mounts on subframe carrier Lemforder trailing arm bushes M-spec 18mm sway bar Other M-sport steering wheel Sports gear knob M-sport tail lights Frosted indicators on front Panasonic /JVC sound install Recovered roof lining and rear parcel tray 18x8 replica BMW wheels What I aim to do Engine Install m50 with low kms engine Sump gasket and weld oil pump nut Install metal impeller water pump, thermostat (80º) and housing Rear crank seal Oil cooler setup weld lugs onto filter housing for lines M20 flywheel, starter motor, clutch and e21 throughout bearing Install M3 engine and gearbox mounts Install drive shaft donut Brakes Install goodridge lines Install genuine bmw pads Install rear rotors and calipers with e36 328i items Motul 5.1 fluid Suspension & Subframe Install steering rack limiters Install new tie rods Install meyle heavy duty ball joints Install new centre joints Install SPC camber plates Install rear camber arms Install rear trailing arm limiters Install 3.15 lsd and new diff bushes Cosmetic Replace bonnet Replace nose cone Replace front bumper (motorsport) Other Remap ECU Replace faulty body control module and rear window switch. Compulsory pictures :bounce: Edited July 28, 2012 by BMRBOI Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gouba 0 Report post Posted July 3, 2011 wow, nice bit of gear to fit, you should take a week off work and do it all in one go Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted July 3, 2011 Love it. I remember having stacks of parts like that. Keep up the good work I'll be copying your oil cooler idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted July 3, 2011 I remember seeing this parked down my street a lot when I was living up in Rotorua. Noticed the bimmersport sticker but didn't realise the extent of the mods... just looked like a stock E36 with aftermarket wheels! Cool build, looking forward to seeing more progress! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eddie 66 Report post Posted July 3, 2011 what is wrong with the old motor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 4, 2011 Thanks guys for the replies!, i like the idea of a standard looking bmw which packs a punch. Will try keep this page up to date. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 4, 2011 The old motor is tired, has a slight headgasket leak and now has developed an oil leak. It has also done high kms. So i think the best option for me is to just replace it. what is wrong with the old motor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) Good stuff. Is that a 4 door or 2 door? . Edited July 4, 2011 by E36V8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rookie 0 Report post Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) Good stuff. At least you're doing it to a coupe. Worth spending money on IMO. Next step after doing all this....... get a centrifugal S/C im sure i see rear doors, although the picture comes out funny on my work screen. Sounds awesome, good luck. Edited July 4, 2011 by rookie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 7, 2011 Been stripping the car down over the week. Everything seems to be coming along well, apart from the front left brake cailper bolts seem to be on very tight. I dont understand why they are done up so tight, i cant even undo them with my rattle gun. Any ideas of undoing them? Oh and i got my clutch today, it is from a m20 325i (heavy duty carbon kevlar). The only thing im wondering is whether i should try and get hold of a e21 thow out bearing? or should i just run with the m20 325i one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted July 7, 2011 Breaker bar with long pipe hanging off the end should do the trick. If that doesn't work put the jack under the pipe and have someone sit on the corner of the car. And the usual crc and the crc freezing stuff helps You must be good at pulling out the rear subframe by now Which throwout bearing is it? from what i've read everyone uses http://realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=21511204525 Search LouieD on bimmerforums he's got a pretty good write-up just can't find thee link atm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 8, 2011 Yeah i will give it a crack tomorrow hopefully! Yeah the subframe is pretty easy for me. my rear trailing arms are getting the new bushes pressed in and i will have them back next week to reinstall. Yeah thats the throwout bearing, i think bnt can get one for me. Over $100 bucks tho, wondering if it would be cheaper to lengthen the slave cylinder if it doesnt engage right. Breaker bar with long pipe hanging off the end should do the trick. If that doesn't work put the jack under the pipe and have someone sit on the corner of the car. And the usual crc and the crc freezing stuff helps You must be good at pulling out the rear subframe by now Which throwout bearing is it? from what i've read everyone uses http://realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=21511204525 Search LouieD on bimmerforums he's got a pretty good write-up just can't find thee link atm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 8, 2011 My new clutch kit. Pretty blue! Havent found anyone who has used this combination with the m20 323 flywheel on an m50 so it will be interesting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 12, 2011 Morning all, not much of a picture update today. But progress has been made. Engine is out, and im in the process of cleaning the g/box, cross member etc. Might as well since everything is already out. I was lucky that i pulled the engine and g/box out as one, made it really easy to get to all the bell housing bolts and to the starter motor. (Big ups to everyone who can change a clutch under the car while lying on the floor!) Its a shame that i am away in Hamilton for the rest of the week and part of next week, that just slows my process down! I still havent really determined where the origin of the oil leak on the old motor was coming from. It looked like it started around the icv, but there isnt much in the way of oil hoses (a breather maybe). It could have possibly just been the oil filter housing (although i did replace its gasket a month back) or even a combination of the oil pan also. Anyone have any ideas on what oil to run in the g/box? I was going to run Redline D4 ATF, any thoughts or recommendations? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cytamen 1 Report post Posted July 13, 2011 May as well just get the BMW fluid, most dealerships sell it out of a tank for $50/l Which transmission is it? Never tried Redlines ATF but their shockproof oil that a mechanic put in my old Nissan's transmission made it sound awful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 14, 2011 Yeah I may have to! The other fluid i was looking into was the Mobil 1 stuff! May as well just get the BMW fluid, most dealerships sell it out of a tank for $50/l Which transmission is it? Never tried Redlines ATF but their shockproof oil that a mechanic put in my old Nissan's transmission made it sound awful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) Synthetic Elf G3 is what I'd jotted down for my shopping list. I'll need to re-add it to my list. Keep up the good work. Edited July 14, 2011 by bbs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 21, 2011 Im back now, i wish the car was finished by now but some things we dont have control over. Not much has been done since my last post. I have cleaned up the cross- member and painted it, have painted the engine mounts and also the control arms. Will get some pics on tomorrow when the paint dries. I have all-most finished swapping all the engine parts over needed to place the 525i engine into the 325i. I have come across one major issue. On the 325i engine there is a mount attached to a crank bracket which attaches to the oil feeder pipe. On the 525i this doesnt exist. My problem is that the crank bracket bolts are stretch type and if i remove them ill have to hunt down some more. Any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted July 24, 2011 (edited) Wasn’t the most productive weekend, but I did get things done! The bolts I ordered to do the crank bracket didn’t turn up on Saturday so I couldn’t put my engine together which is now holding my progress up. Welded the oil pump nut on and did the rear crank seal on the engine. Pieced the rear subframe back together and it looks pretty good. Filled the lsd up with redline diff oil as well, hopefully it works well. Pictures are of: • Lemforder trailing arm bushes with Polyurethane limiter spacers. • Lemforder lower trailing arm bush. • New upper trailing arm bushes • Rear subframe with camber arms and lsd diff • Rear Sachs shock with Ruff top hat. • G/box shifter bushes replaced, picture showing the difference between the old shifter and new short shifter. • Repainted crossmember • Front control arms with Meyle heavy duty ball joints, new centre joints and derlin offset cabs The rear subframe feels really stiff, I cant wait to take it out for a drive. Edited July 24, 2011 by BMRBOI Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 Bit of an update. Front end suspension installed. Every bush has been replaced now i think. Its pretty intense the amount of work i have done to this car Already. G/box is on the new engine. it all seemed to go together fine. I hope the starter motor will work, thats the only thing im really worried about in that area. One picture i forgot to take is the height of the new throwout bearing comparing to the e30 325i one and the e36 325i one. Enjoy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 your warrant inspector is going to get a nice surprise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 Haha yeah, especially when he sees all this bright orange throughout the car! your warrant inspector is going to get a nice surprise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMRBOI 8 Report post Posted September 22, 2011 (edited) Hey guys! Well I finally have pictures and updates of this build! Everything is back together. Ended up taking my time putting it together in the end. Pictures are of: • Clutch components new ball pivot, UUC braided clutch line new slave cylinder • Modified starter motor bracket • Derlin shifter carrier bush • M3 engine mounts • Cold air intake setup • New centre bearing • Electric fan mounted • Pictures of how it looks. Car started fine, still trying to bleed every bit of air out of the system (damin e36 cooling systems). Questions/issues… • Electric fan is controlled by a fan controller unit and have set it to cut in at 86°. Does anyone know what the correct running temp should be? • My injectors are very nosey and weren’t before I started my project. Any remedies for this? • I have never driven on a new clutch; it has a bit of shudder, will this reduce as the clutch beds in? • Im a bit nervous about the moisture emitted out the exhaust … Will take it to bmw and get them to put it on there computer before I try and drive it further then down the road. It looks good overall, I just hope I get to enjoy it soon. Edited September 22, 2011 by BMRBOI Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Apex Effects 3 Report post Posted September 22, 2011 id personally run it a tad cooler around the 82 mark. all my engines liked it that way Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted September 23, 2011 Do you still have the viscous fan? What thermostat are you using? If not i'd run it at 80-82. Having the fan in a push setup is going to be less efficient so it'll need all the lead time it can get. Although it might move more air then the factory setup. The air intake is a cool way to do it. Does the mount just bolt on in the factory place? Must be a tight squeez for the headlight Scan tool will show if there is any problem with the injectors. Clutch should be fine after a bit of slow wearing in Sniffer test of the cooling system will make sure that you don't have any head gasket issues. Hopefully it's just condensation and moisture from the air. Mine also threw out a bit of moisture after I finished putting things back together Your car is looking great Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
