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BMRBOI

E36 Freshen up

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So when do you want to come around and do the underside of mine?

Haha, car is mint. Top effort

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Nice work!!

but...

...while the sump was off, you should have 'just slotted in' one of those M54B30 botton-ends Brent had.

if only it was that easy aye...

Edited by E30-323ti

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Do you still have the viscous fan?

What thermostat are you using?

If not i'd run it at 80-82. Having the fan in a push setup is going to be less efficient so it'll need all the lead time it can get. Although it might move more air then the factory setup.

The air intake is a cool way to do it. Does the mount just bolt on in the factory place? Must be a tight squeez for the headlight

Scan tool will show if there is any problem with the injectors.

Clutch should be fine after a bit of slow wearing in

Sniffer test of the cooling system will make sure that you don't have any head gasket issues. Hopefully it's just condensation and moisture from the air. Mine also threw out a bit of moisture after I finished putting things back together

Your car is looking great

Cheers James,

Yeah am running the viscous fan on the inside and a 16†electric on the outside. For some reason my fan controller is being an ass and won’t kick the fan in, so I set it up on a toggle switch until I sort it out. Im using an 80º thermostat to try and keep everything cool.

I am very paro about overheating and head gaskets as that was the demise of my old engine, although I have done a head gasket change on an M50 before I would prefer not to again.

The elbow mounts directly to the MAF sensor, it is just a factory airbox chopped up and epoxied together. It is a tight fit below the headlight I had to remove the headlight adjuster to make it all fit, not sure if I should just scrap the whole idea and go back to a stock box. Although my cold air intake cost me a good part of $100 bucks and has some “bling†factor.

I will book a time with BMW sometime this week, gives me piece of mind etc.

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Nice work!!

but...

...while the sump was off, you should have 'just slotted in' one of those M54B30 botton-ends Brent had.

if only it was that easy aye...

Haha, yes well. Add water and you have instant 3l fun. If only.

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Has anyone had experience with oil cooler set ups on a M50? I was unable to figure out a way to install my oil cooler into the oil filter housing. I have noticed that there are a few varieties of housing types; is anyone better then the other to tap or weld? Where would be the best place to tap into on the housing to return the cooled oil?

I have looked into an Ireland Engineering oil filter adaptor cap which is designed to channel oil though an oil cooler. If anyone is interested it will cost around $200 each shipped, that’s if I can get 4 people to buy in.

Adaptor

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Cheers James,

Yeah am running the viscous fan on the inside and a 16†electric on the outside. For some reason my fan controller is being an ass and won’t kick the fan in, so I set it up on a toggle switch until I sort it out. Im using an 80º thermostat to try and keep everything cool.

I am very paro about overheating and head gaskets as that was the demise of my old engine, although I have done a head gasket change on an M50 before I would prefer not to again.

The elbow mounts directly to the MAF sensor, it is just a factory airbox chopped up and epoxied together. It is a tight fit below the headlight I had to remove the headlight adjuster to make it all fit, not sure if I should just scrap the whole idea and go back to a stock box. Although my cold air intake cost me a good part of $100 bucks and has some “bling†factor.

I will book a time with BMW sometime this week, gives me piece of mind etc.

Have you thought about using a jaycar temperature unit? They do a kit for about $40 that is fully adjustable with a variable hysteresis so you can alter on/off temps. They are real simple to build providing you got a decent soldering iron. I think they even do one that has a big lcd display too.

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID...mp;form=KEYWORD

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Would be keen for a cap if I can't find an e36/46 housing. The caps are a bit pricey when you add in a thermostat. I have given up on the idea of tapping into the housing. Too many layers in the casting and alternator being in the way was what put me off

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Hey guys,

Well its been nearly a year of happy motoring, so I thought i'd update you on part two of the build.

I was getting knocking from the subframe and we couldn't figure out what was causing it. I thought I had broken a mount or something from the floor. After checking all the mounting tabs and finding nothing broken, I put it down to the subframe bushes which must of had a bit of play.

So, I ordered new M3 subframe bushes from Turner Motorsport (almost half the price compared to BMW NZ) and I had a chance to fit them over the weekend. I'm happy to say the knocking has gone! They were a nightmare to get in compared the the poly bushes.

For future reference: The poly bushes were ruff branded bushes, the kit did not include any washers and the bushes seemed to be all the same size, unlike the M3 mounts, which seem to be different front to rear. The poly bushes almost seemed sloppy in place and came out very easy. I could have installed these wrong, but I'm sure these require extra spaces etc to work correctly or they are crap.

Also, we have been working on a subframe brace, this brace mounts to the rear subframe mounting points and ties into the rear strut towers. I have noticed the rear end to be significantly stiffer with reduced rear body flex. I'm not 100% sure on how I will go by getting a cert for this. The reason why this bolts on at all points is from what I've been told, you cannot in NZ solid weld braces to the rear of the car located behind the rear wheel axis point.

Finally, I received my brake rotors from Turner Motorsport to complete my "big brake kit".

My brake set up consists of e46 330i front brakes and e46 325/8i rear brakes. I will be using standard bmw pads with Turner motorport/stoptech cross drilled rotors and turner braided lines.

I know there will be people disproving of my brake choice (un-sprung weight, cross drilled, road car blah blah) Doesn't faze me.

Pictures to enjoy!

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Most interesting to see how you've expanded on the rear strut bar linking it to the subframe mount point location.

Heh imported the rotors, what did they sting you for shipping?

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Most interesting to see how you've expanded on the rear strut bar linking it to the subframe mount point location.

Heh imported the rotors, what did they sting you for shipping?

Yeah the idea comes from a roll cage i saw on the internet, it allows for support over the rear mounts hopefully to reduce subframe movement. Also big thanks to James (Thorburn) for fabrication hours.

I was lucky enough to have a family friend bring the parts in for me. I just had to pay for the gst and customs fees. iirc turner wanted well over $400nz to ship them, if it wasn’t for the cheap shipping i wouldn’t have bothered.

Have you upgraded your brakes to suit the v8 Michael?

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Yeah the idea comes from a roll cage i saw on the internet, it allows for support over the rear mounts hopefully to reduce subframe movement. Also big thanks to James (Thorburn) for fabrication hours.

I was lucky enough to have a family friend bring the parts in for me. I just had to pay for the gst and customs fees. iirc turner wanted well over $400nz to ship them, if it wasn’t for the cheap shipping i wouldn’t have bothered.

Have you upgraded your brakes to suit the v8 Michael?

Yeah I'd seen the same cage design too.. Seems like a good idea if the car goes through some hard track use.

I'd probably be more inclined to have it all welded in. Looks like you've made yours bolt in?

Well, the engine is lighter so by the Low Volume standards they don't need upgrading... seems illogical but its all about the mass of the car more so than the speed it can do. However I am upgrading to M3 brakes, of which I am nearly there with the front, but have yet to sort the rear end later in the year.

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Yeah I'd seen the same cage design too.. Seems like a good idea if the car goes through some hard track use.

I'd probably be more inclined to have it all welded in. Looks like you've made yours bolt in?

Well, the engine is lighter so by the Low Volume standards they don't need upgrading... seems illogical but its all about the mass of the car more so than the speed it can do. However I am upgrading to M3 brakes, of which I am nearly there with the front, but have yet to sort the rear end later in the year.

Yeah mines bolt in; this is because I was told you cannot solid weld behind the rear axel. I showed Dyno Power Tauranga want I wanted and they told me that.

I was going to go with the m3 brakes but at the time I got the 330i ones a lot cheaper, it would probably be much of a much-ness now since I have spend money on new rotors. Will you have to swap out the trailing arms for m3 items as well? Could always go for the e46 rear set like mine.

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Yeah mines bolt in; this is because I was told you cannot solid weld behind the rear axel. I showed Dyno Power Tauranga want I wanted and they told me that.

I was going to go with the m3 brakes but at the time I got the 330i ones a lot cheaper, it would probably be much of a much-ness now since I have spend money on new rotors. Will you have to swap out the trailing arms for m3 items as well? Could always go for the e46 rear set like mine.

Interesting point you make regarding the axle line. I vageley recall something about that - I think it would require a cert if it was welded in.

That's true, I actually looked into doing the 330i brake upgrade sometime last year... its probably cheaper - but I've spontaniously gone down the M3 route, so it means swapping in the whole suspension assemblies front and rear, I mainly wanted that as they have slightly bigger wheel bearings which probably makes sense having a torquier engine than the stock M3 setup. Nearly there with the front, yet to find the rear gear and rebuild it all with new bushings etc. Quite costly mind you with OEM M3 bits... but so be it, I'm not selling the car!

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Good to hear you finally tracked down the knocking noise

Do you need to modify the handbrake shoes for the larger rear rotors?

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Interesting point you make regarding the axle line. I vageley recall something about that - I think it would require a cert if it was welded in.

That's true, I actually looked into doing the 330i brake upgrade sometime last year... its probably cheaper - but I've spontaniously gone down the M3 route, so it means swapping in the whole suspension assemblies front and rear, I mainly wanted that as they have slightly bigger wheel bearings which probably makes sense having a torquier engine than the stock M3 setup. Nearly there with the front, yet to find the rear gear and rebuild it all with new bushings etc. Quite costly mind you with OEM M3 bits... but so be it, I'm not selling the car!

Haha i know that feeling dude, have you considered upgrading the master cylinder to the m3 one? Im in the process of hunting down information on this, I wonder if it is worth the hassle. It will be good to see how you get on with your brake conversion.

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Good to hear you finally tracked down the knocking noise

Do you need to modify the handbrake shoes for the larger rear rotors?

From my understanding, the e36 and e46 have the same dia had brake shoes (except m3 and 330i). This was the reason why i went with the e46 328i rears. If you wanted to fit the 330i rear brakes you will have to custom make hand brake shoes using the e36 base and 330i top piece welded together or install 330i trailing arms into the e36.

I hope they are the same size haha

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Haha i know that feeling dude, have you considered upgrading the master cylinder to the m3 one? Im in the process of hunting down information on this, I wonder if it is worth the hassle. It will be good to see how you get on with your brake conversion.

I nearly bought one last year off a wrecker in the UK when I got some other parts. I thought it was a waste of money at the time.

Might be worth doing it later down the track, obviously there is a benefit, but its only marginally bigger.

I am wondering if there are any other aftermarket upgrades to the M3 one that could be better going for. Hmmm?

In saying that, I'm not trying to build a hard core track car so it's probably not a necessary spend! :rolleyes:

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I nearly bought one last year off a wrecker in the UK when I got some other parts. I thought it was a waste of money at the time.

Might be worth doing it later down the track, obviously there is a benefit, but its only marginally bigger.

I am wondering if there are any other aftermarket upgrades to the M3 one that could be better going for. Hmmm?

In saying that, I'm not trying to build a hard core track car so it's probably not a necessary spend! :rolleyes:

Hmm yeah same, but just keep spending more haha. Ill just fit the brakes and see how i got for pedal travel.

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ahh. I knew i'd read about modifying the handbrake shoe for something. Hopefully I can fit the 328 gear under what i'm tinkering with.

Edited by Thorburn

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Done the brakes,

Had a picture showing before but somehow I deleted them.

Pretty happy with how they turned out. Braking is more aggressive, steering is a little heavier not in a bad way though. Rear brakes fitted without modification to the dust shield and also brake pad wear sensors fitted without modification. 1st pic comparing e36 rear vs e46 rear.

Off to get a wof…

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Edited by BMRBOI

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Cheers James,

Yea painted them with a high temp black paint made for pot belly fires. Kinda looks like a brown with light on it, meh makes it tidy.

Are the calipers painted?

Looks great

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