E36 Coupe V8 Conversion - Updates

[Michael. 2313]

Well, It has taken it's time but my cars very nearly complete. I've finally got the last few minor things to get sorted for the certification for February.

Over the last few months I addressed all the main issues I needed to address, it meant replacing the whole front suspension setup so now it has M3 suspension up front, all Lemforder parts and new M3 brakes etc.

I also changed the engine mounting system with an improved design so it sat the engine as low as possible and 20mm further back, this also meant making a new gearbox crossmember and driveshaft. My only annoyance is the rear gearbox mounts polyurethane damper is slightly hard, transmitting a few unwanted vibrations, it's probably 80-90 shore hardness so I might drop it down to 60-70 at a later date.

I also made up some 4-2-1 headers, which have made a massive difference as expected, cleaner exhaust note and way up on power compared to the woeful stock manifold I had initially. These headers run to a dual 2.25 system I made up with some old RS4 exhaust sections and magnaflow mid mufflers and cats. To accomidate this I had my panel shop cut out the original tire well and weld in a new flat rear floor & reseal it - this meant I had room for the rear mufflers.

The last part I've just got working is the 5 speed automatic box with a shift kit (modified valve body) and custom controller, yes it's automatic but very responsive and quick on changes with these upgrades, this is not a lazy automatic! Although I am aware a nice 5 speed Supra manual gearbox would be the best setup for this kind of car, it just has not happened due to the cost.. the auto setup with manual control is 2k vs 6k for a conventional manual - so I might come back to that down the line. Never the less the current setup suits my needs for the meantime!

A few pictures:

Quite happy with the ride height with the UUC Motorwerks springs supplied by Ray. Needs some more M spec body trim though.

Nice and standard inside. Seats also supplied by Ray from a couple of years ago!

Tried to keep the engine bay looking clean and standard.

Dual 2.25" stainless exhaust

Used some E39 M5 heat shields slightly modified for the rear mufflers (thanking Ray for those too!)

Headers before welding and completion with a stock manifold in the middle - yuck! (I still need to get the new headers HPC coated, definitely not wrapped.)

Good steering arm clearance considering how tight it is, 4-5mm give or take, minimal engine rock too so no contact when under revs either. Not sure how long the rubber dount will last with the heat though?

New M3 brakes, using Hawk street pads - should be ok with a bit of soft track use...

PCS TCM 2000 Transmission controller - this can do pretty much any gearbox, like a 540i 5 speed zf.

Wiring and setting up the gearbox.

Upgraded Automatic Valve body and pistons springs.

New engine mount cradle and brackets.

Here's also the latest clip I made of the exhaust note while stationary Youtube Clip

Pretty damn happy although it's been 3 years to date since I first though of putting one of these engines into an E36 so it hasn't happened over night. I ended up doing everything bar the welding and coupled with work during the week it's meant progress was slow, but it's finally how I want it to be for the meantime.

Edited January 25, 2013 by Michael.

[BM WORLD 1283]

looking good .

is there much in the way of wiring to get these to run??

i also have a complete m3 rear suspension setup if interested with lsd or not etc, bigger axles , bigger bearings, bigger CV's and driveflanges for driveshaft etc , stronger diff carrier and trailing arms etc.

also have front setup etc, quick turning rack etc

Edited August 12, 2011 by Brent HARTGE535i

[thorburn 121]

Good to finally see this. Looks like a good fit

Do you have to do anything to the headers to make them fit? Does it use the 1uz power steering stuff

[Nobimmer 694]

Looks made for it!

[DrphTa 5]

Nice mate, finally tucked in there

[KwS 2425]

Yup, knew my E36 was missing something.... a dirty great v8!

[Braeden320 0]

Very Tidy, Looks good

[Michael. 2313]

Getting there.

Had the engine fired up earlier his week, just perfecting the wiring setup so thing switch off through relays and what not rather than just being hard wired. Best to do it once and do it right so it's safe! Going well just been tight on time after starting a new job.

Also got the drive shaft all sorted through BDC in Penrose.

Only stuff left to do is cosmetic and a few minor technical things, trans fluid flush, PS flush and to weld up some custom front pipes to the exhaust system.

Then once I'm satisfied, might get my mechanic to take a look at it and get his opinion before going off to the certification chaps and giving yet more money away.

To anyone interested in an engine conversion, best to double the amount you think you will spend, as that is what it will end up costing!

[hybrid 1043]

Verrrry nice. The cert processes isnt that hard.

Just pay attention to the drive shaft hoops needed and the hoops (as of last year) need to have 2 bolts a side (4 in total) per hoop. The number of hoops is subject to how much power your car is putting out.

EG 500hp RWD car is different to 500hp awd car etc. Best check with your certifier you are going to use. Theyre only a phone call away.

Engine mounts if different will be looked at and any custom work to the drive shaft.

Low volume have a great forum now for asking specific questions.

[KillerX 40]

Very nice , even looks factory like

[Michael. 2313]

Verrrry nice. The cert processes isnt that hard.

Just pay attention to the drive shaft hoops needed and the hoops (as of last year) need to have 2 bolts a side (4 in total) per hoop. The number of hoops is subject to how much power your car is putting out.

EG 500hp RWD car is different to 500hp awd car etc. Best check with your certifier you are going to use. Theyre only a phone call away.

Engine mounts if different will be looked at and any custom work to the drive shaft.

Low volume have a great forum now for asking specific questions.

I assume you're referring to the 'bracket' that sits under the drive shaft to prevent it from falling down if one of the drive shaft links fail?

On the E36s they have one towards the back of the car as stock about 3/4 of a meter before the diff using a 4 bolt mounting setup. So I gather I'll be okay in that regard.

[topcat 11]

I assume you're referring to the 'bracket' that sits under the drive shaft to prevent it from falling down if one of the drive shaft links fail?

On the E36s they have one towards the back of the car as stock about 3/4 of a meter before the diff using a 4 bolt mounting setup. So I gather I'll be okay in that regard.

they required me to fit 2 hoops last week. one behind the gearbox/dougnut and one behind the

hangerbearing. new regulations dont see the hanger bearing bracket as being enough

to contain the driveshaft by its self,if something would happen to go amiss.

nice install BTW, tidy indeed

[melowpuf 19]

Here are the specs for the driveshaft hoops.

Drive-shaft safety loops

2.5(8) A front-engine, rear-wheel drive low volume vehicle that has undergone

an engine conversion, or has had its factory-fitted engine significantly

modified, such that a significant increase in power or torque has resulted,

must be fitted with an effective 360-degree front drive-shaft loop,

mounted within 150 mm rearward of each front drive-shaft universal.

LVVTA_STD_Engine_&_Drive-train_Conversions

[Michael. 2313]

Bargh... more work to do.

Ridiculous.

[melowpuf 19]

You can pick pre-made ones up off TM for an easy solution, a couple of bends in it drill some holes and bolt it up. Unfortunately with the BMW 2 piece driveshafts (assuming you are using a 2piece still) you will probably need 2 to keep the certifier happy. But give him a call and discuss it with him.

[Michael. 2313]

You can pick pre-made ones up off TM for an easy solution, a couple of bends in it drill some holes and bolt it up. Unfortunately with the BMW 2 piece driveshafts (assuming you are using a 2piece still) you will probably need 2 to keep the certifier happy. But give him a call and discuss it with him.

Yeah I just saw those earlier. $60 for two through that V8 parts guy. Cheap enough.

Probably will have to use two. Where to mount it will be the question... drilling holes and tapping a thread through thin under floor sheet metal? Hmmm

Ill talk to a certifier tomorrow about it.

[KwS 2425]

IIRC the bolts need to go through plates on the other side of the floor?

[Michael. 2313]

IIRC the bolts need to go through plates on the other side of the floor?

That would be the way to go... although that would possibly mean seats out and the carpet.

Oh well I shall get a couple and stick them in weekend, may as well do it for safety (and save time being told I need them)

Edited August 29, 2011 by E36V8

[Michael. 2313]

Ill need to consult a engineer certifier but where do you guys think the safety loop(s) should go based on the requirement

On my car it looks like this basically

It goes

GB- Flex disk --------- front shaft -------- spline - hanger bearing - universal ----------rear shaft ------- universal -- diff

So what letters corresponds to the best placement of the loop(s)? Obviously I need one for the front shaft, A B or C...

Not sure if I will need a second loop for the rear shaft as its already supported by the stock rear brace.

Edited August 31, 2011 by E36V8

[robert.fowler 0]

Ill need to consult a engineer certifier but where do you guys think the safety loop(s) should go based on the requirement

On my car it looks like this basically

It goes

GB- Flex disk --------- front shaft -------- spline - hanger bearing - universal ----------rear shaft ------- universal -- diff

So what letters corresponds to the best placement of the loop(s)? Obviously I need one for the front shaft, A B or C...

Not sure if I will need a second loop for the rear shaft as its already supported by the stock rear brace.

Edited August 31, 2011 by 65gtmustang

[robert.fowler 0]

They must be no more than 150mm from each universal so one behind the doughnut and one behind the hanger bearing.

Looking good Mike

Robert

[hybrid 1043]

Its all based on your certifiers defination of 'significant power increase'

In my case I have gone from 170hp to 321hp .. I have a hoop in location B and a cover over the rear shaft so that was deemed significant for my purposes.

Here is a thread on it on the LVVTA forums. As you can see theyll tell you the same thing, ring your certifier as its not an exact science because everyones application is different. This is why LV Certification process was setup in the first place.

http://lvvta.proboards.com/index.cgi?board...y&thread=61

As a guide in my limited knowledge from what I have experienced, I think if you copied what I have done, you will be fine, come cert time. However please do phone your choosen cert engineer first and dont take my word for it.

[bvm8w 1]

Wish I still had mine, Bloody Lamp post!

[KwS 2425]

Wish I still had mine, Bloody Lamp post!

That was an AWESOME car. Remember seeing it at turners and going "holy sh*t!" at both the awesomeness and the damage. Wish i was into bimmers back then, would've bought it myself.

[jager 0]

very cool! photos of the mounts at all?

any sump mods needed?

what gearbox are you running?

still factory rear end? (also auto or manual from factory)

Radiator you're using?

sorry few question.. been dreaming a bit lately