New car blues, E39 m530i touring

[speedyg 16]

So I have just bought a 530i touring, received it on Friday, looks in great cond. 3rd time driving it I pull up to the lights and hear rumble rumble pop, I wasn't sure if it was my car or the trailer pulling up next to us, lights go green and I ease away and rattly sound coming from engine, then check coolant light comes on, quick u turn park and turn off. Probably had the car running for about 30 seconds from first noise. A trail of coolant is following the car and still leaking out when I hop out. It appears that the water pump bearing has failed and blown the seal at the same time. The fan is on a angle to the radiator also.(no contact though) Stink one.

So it looks like I have some work to do.

Option 1 Replace Waterpump, thermostat and belt

Option 2 Replace Waterpump, thermostat, belt, expansion tank, tensioner, fan clutch, hoses and radiator. and any other bits I come in contact with. $$$

It looks fairly straight forward to fix, anything to look out for?

On a side note, the Touring feels a fair bit slower off the mark than my M530i sedan, lacking low down grunt, I realise it is a bit heavier but noticable? Maybe it has been driven around town too much in Akl.

Any thoughts or opinions welcome.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2122]

So I have just bought a 530i touring, received it on Friday, looks in great cond. 3rd time driving it I pull up to the lights and hear rumble rumble pop, I wasn't sure if it was my car or the trailer pulling up next to us, lights go green and I ease away and rattly sound coming from engine, then check coolant light comes on, quick u turn park and turn off. Probably had the car running for about 30 seconds from first noise. A trail of coolant is following the car and still leaking out when I hop out. It appears that the water pump bearing has failed and blown the seal at the same time. The fan is on a angle to the radiator also.(no contact though) Stink one.

So it looks like I have some work to do.

Option 1 Replace Waterpump, thermostat and belt

Option 2 Replace Waterpump, thermostat, belt, expansion tank, tensioner, fan clutch, hoses and radiator. and any other bits I come in contact with. $$$

It looks fairly straight forward to fix, anything to look out for?

On a side note, the Touring feels a fair bit slower off the mark than my M530i sedan, lacking low down grunt, I realise it is a bit heavier but noticable? Maybe it has been driven around town too much in Akl.

Any thoughts or opinions welcome.

if the vanos is blown you loose a lot of low down torque, probably thats the issue.

not the same engine or car, but my E34 525i sedan and 525i touring were quite different too with the touring being a lot slower off the mark, probably irrelevant but food for thought

[BM WORLD 1264]

yes do most of the coolant system , any plastics that look a bit grey or brown in colour are on there way out.

yes and also get the vanos checked and also cam sensors etc

Edited May 13, 2012 by Brent HARTGE535i

[speedyg 16]

also which trans , jatco or zf as they fell different to drive.

and yes do most of the coolant system , any plastics that look a bit grey or brown in colour are on there way out.

yes and also get the vanos checked and aslo cam sensors etc

Not sure which trans I have, the sedan is 2000 530i motorsport vin WBADT62030CE60342, the touring 2001 530i vin WBADS62050GL80548.

Also how do I check to see all the options fited to each car? ie Build sheet

[beemn 50]

options_1.pdf

[KwS 2378]

Isnt it as simple as, if its from Japan its got a Jatco, if its not (NZ new etc) it has ZF?

Having just done the vanos on my own E39 525 i would highly recommend doing it, if it hasnt been done already. Chances are thats where the power has gone.

Are the tourings much heavier than sedans?

[HELLBM 1531]

All 530`s equiped with ZF only.

Do your Vanos seals to regain lost power.

[speedyg 16]

options_1.pdf

Thanks, how do you get these?

[speedyg 16]

So it looks like I will be doing cooling system and vanos.

Well at least I hadn't sold the other car yet!

Thanks for all the replies

[antil33t 90]

Thanks, how do you get these?

I found a really good one - http://www.rubmw.ru/vincode/eng/

[yng_750 247]

anyone able to get my options list?

WBADE62010BW73173

seems to not work in most of the vin search engines ive found so far

[KwS 2378]

anyone able to get my options list?

WBADE62010BW73173

seems to not work in most of the vin search engines ive found so far

Type

Value

VIN WBADE62010BW73173

Type code DE62

Type 540I (EUR)

E series E39 ()

Series 5

Type LIM

Steering RL

Doors 4

Engine M62

Displacement 4.40

Power 210

Drive HECK

Transmission AUT

Colour COSMOSSCHWARZ METALLIC (303)

Upholstery STANDARDLEDER/SCHWARZ (N6SW)

Prod.date 1997-11-25

Options

Code

Description (interface)

Description (EPC)

S204A ANTRIEBSAUSLEGUNG EXPORT Shorter final drive ratio

S216A SERVOTRONIC HYDRO STEERING-SERVOTRONIC

S223A ELEKTRONISCHE DAEMPFER CONTROL(EDC) Electronic Damper Control (EDC)

S354A GRUENKEIL-FRONTSCHEIBE Windscreen, green-tinted upper strip

S401A SCHIEBE-HEBEDACH, ELEKTRISCH Lift-up-and-slide-back sunroof, electric

S415A SONNENSCHUTZROLLO FUER HECKSCHEIBE Sun-blind, rear

S423A FUSSMATTEN IN VELOURS Floor mats velours

S428A WARNDREIECK Warning triangle and first aid kit

S431A INNENSPIEGEL,AUTOMATISCH ABBLENDEND Interior mirror with automatic-dip

S438A EDELHOLZAUSFUEHRUNG Fine wood trim

S441A RAUCHERPAKET Smoker package

S459A SITZVERSTELLUNG, ELEKTR.MIT MEMORY Seat adjustment, electric, with memory

S494A SITZHEIZUNG FUER FAHRER/BEIFAHRER Seat heating driver/passenger

S500A SCHEINW.WASCHANL./INTENSIVREINIGUNG Headl.washer system/intensive cleaning

S534A KLIMAAUTOMATIK Automatic air conditioning

Code

Description (interface)

Description (EPC)

S548A KILOMETERTACHO Kilometre speedo

S602A BORDMONITOR MIT TV On-board monitor withTV

S676A HIFI LAUTSPRECHERSYSTEM HiFi speaker system

S694A CD-WECHSLER VORBEREITUNG Provisions for BMW 6 CD changer

L807A JAPAN-AUSFUEHRUNG NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN

S818A BATTERIEHAUPTSCHALTER Battery master switch

S823A HEISSLAND-AUSFUEHRUNG Hot-climate version

S845A AKUSTISCHE GURTWARNUNG Acoustic fasten seat belt reminder

S875A INFRAROTFERNBEDIENUNG Infrared remote control

S925A VERSANDSCHUTZPAKET Dispatch protection pack

Standard equipment

Code

Description (interface)

Description (EPC)

S260A SEITENAIRBAG FUER FAHRER/BEIFAHRER Side airbag for driver/passenger

S411A FENSTERHEBER,ELEKTRISCH VORN/HINTEN Window lifts,electric,front/rear

S473A ARMAUFLAGE VORN Armrest front

S510A LEUCHTWEITENREGELUNG ABBLENDLICHT Headlight vertical aim control

S520A NEBELSCHEINWERFER Fog lights

S540A GESCHWINDIGKEITSREGELUNG Cruise control

S555A BORDCOMPUTER On-board computer V with remote control

S853A SPRACHVERSION ENGLISCH Language version, English

[beemn 50]

I found a really good one - http://www.rubmw.ru/vincode/eng/

yeah that one is good as long you click for english

[speedyg 16]

I started pulling the cooling system apart tonight, it looks like most things have been replaced in 2010, eg radiator, hoses, belts, expansion tank, so that'a a bonus.

I am struggling to get the fan clutch nut off (yes I realise it's left hand thread) I have tried wedging a screwdriver in between the 32mm nut and the pulley nuts as described here.... http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986 but still no luck, gave it a few sharp blows on the spanner with the hammer but it is stuck fast. So sprayed crc all over it and try again tomorrow I guess. Any other tips?

The waterpump bearing is destroyed as the pulley is on quite an angle to the engine, I found what looks like roller bearing pieces on the tray under the engine.

[KwS 2378]

i got mine off with a couple of sharp hits with a claw hammer on a 32mm spanner. Just take care not to damage the shroud.

[antil33t 90]

I borrowed my mates proper BMW tools, quick flick of your wrists off in under 5 seconds.

Worth it imo, even if you just buy the holder, possibly able to get one elsewhere as fan clutches are pretty much one as another.

[yng_750 247]

kinda unrelated but if the fan clutch happened to be stuffed wouldnt be a bad idea to convert to electric fan saves a fair chunk of power

[speedyg 16]

Success, got the fan clutch off.

If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger spanner and hammer!

Edited May 16, 2012 by speedyg

[speedyg 16]

I have now removed everything, all the cooling parts are stamped 2010, except the water pump 2001! it is absolutely stuffed no bearings left in it, knackered. It's a shame whoever replaced nearly everything in 2010 didn't bother to undo 4 nuts and do the waterpump!

Should the fan clutch have a date stamped on it? If it's 2010 I won't replace it.

Edited May 16, 2012 by speedyg

[KwS 2378]

Mine has a date on the back of it IIRC, near the nut.

[speedyg 16]

Mine has a date on the back of it IIRC, near the nut.

There is a small 00 in a long box and a small 99 in a long box written on the back. Not the usual circular date stamp. Its' the only number apart from the part number I can see on it. The car is 2001 so I guess it might be a 99/00 part. I think I will replace it to be safe.

[speedyg 16]

Vanos seals done, cooling system all but back together, just the fan and shroud to go, I have left these off for now while I fill and bleed the cooling system so I can raise the expansion tank.

Turned the ignition on to set heater to hot and also make the small electric waterpump run and in 5 minutes the battery was flat! (The car hasn't run for 3+ weeks)

Stink one, was hoping to get it going tonight.

Question: To charge the battery, do I trickle charge it by hooking up the charger under the bonnet on the + on the inlet manifold and the - on the rh strut tower as per the Haynes manual, or do I disconnect and remove the battery?

[hotwire 352]

Vanos seals done, cooling system all but back together, just the fan and shroud to go, I have left these off for now while I fill and bleed the cooling system so I can raise the expansion tank.

Turned the ignition on to set heater to hot and also make the small electric waterpump run and in 5 minutes the battery was flat! (The car hasn't run for 3+ weeks)

Stink one, was hoping to get it going tonight.

Question: To charge the battery, do I trickle charge it by hooking up the charger under the bonnet on the + on the inlet manifold and the - on the rh strut tower as per the Haynes manual, or do I disconnect and remove the battery?

Safe enough to trickle charge it from under the bonnet, but equally, not hard to charge at the battery

[speedyg 16]

Just been reading about the e39's having a Calcium battery. I have only got a cheap Arlec charger, so I am guessing that won't do the job?

[yng_750 247]

mine has a lead acid

they might have a calcium from factory but i doubt that has lasted 12 years

lead acid are about $350 for a huge one like my 540 has

Calcium can be three times that so doubtful someone will have used one

battery will likely have either PB (lead) or CA (calcium) somewhere on it