speedyg 16 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 So I have just bought a 530i touring, received it on Friday, looks in great cond. 3rd time driving it I pull up to the lights and hear rumble rumble pop, I wasn't sure if it was my car or the trailer pulling up next to us, lights go green and I ease away and rattly sound coming from engine, then check coolant light comes on, quick u turn park and turn off. Probably had the car running for about 30 seconds from first noise. A trail of coolant is following the car and still leaking out when I hop out. It appears that the water pump bearing has failed and blown the seal at the same time. The fan is on a angle to the radiator also.(no contact though) Stink one. So it looks like I have some work to do. Option 1 Replace Waterpump, thermostat and belt Option 2 Replace Waterpump, thermostat, belt, expansion tank, tensioner, fan clutch, hoses and radiator. and any other bits I come in contact with. $$$ It looks fairly straight forward to fix, anything to look out for? On a side note, the Touring feels a fair bit slower off the mark than my M530i sedan, lacking low down grunt, I realise it is a bit heavier but noticable? Maybe it has been driven around town too much in Akl. Any thoughts or opinions welcome. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 So I have just bought a 530i touring, received it on Friday, looks in great cond. 3rd time driving it I pull up to the lights and hear rumble rumble pop, I wasn't sure if it was my car or the trailer pulling up next to us, lights go green and I ease away and rattly sound coming from engine, then check coolant light comes on, quick u turn park and turn off. Probably had the car running for about 30 seconds from first noise. A trail of coolant is following the car and still leaking out when I hop out. It appears that the water pump bearing has failed and blown the seal at the same time. The fan is on a angle to the radiator also.(no contact though) Stink one. So it looks like I have some work to do. Option 1 Replace Waterpump, thermostat and belt Option 2 Replace Waterpump, thermostat, belt, expansion tank, tensioner, fan clutch, hoses and radiator. and any other bits I come in contact with. $$$ It looks fairly straight forward to fix, anything to look out for? On a side note, the Touring feels a fair bit slower off the mark than my M530i sedan, lacking low down grunt, I realise it is a bit heavier but noticable? Maybe it has been driven around town too much in Akl. Any thoughts or opinions welcome. if the vanos is blown you loose a lot of low down torque, probably thats the issue. not the same engine or car, but my E34 525i sedan and 525i touring were quite different too with the touring being a lot slower off the mark, probably irrelevant but food for thought Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 (edited) yes do most of the coolant system , any plastics that look a bit grey or brown in colour are on there way out. yes and also get the vanos checked and also cam sensors etc Edited May 13, 2012 by Brent HARTGE535i Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 also which trans , jatco or zf as they fell different to drive. and yes do most of the coolant system , any plastics that look a bit grey or brown in colour are on there way out. yes and also get the vanos checked and aslo cam sensors etc Not sure which trans I have, the sedan is 2000 530i motorsport vin WBADT62030CE60342, the touring 2001 530i vin WBADS62050GL80548. Also how do I check to see all the options fited to each car? ie Build sheet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beemn 50 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 options_1.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 Isnt it as simple as, if its from Japan its got a Jatco, if its not (NZ new etc) it has ZF? Having just done the vanos on my own E39 525 i would highly recommend doing it, if it hasnt been done already. Chances are thats where the power has gone. Are the tourings much heavier than sedans? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HELLBM 1557 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 All 530`s equiped with ZF only. Do your Vanos seals to regain lost power. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 options_1.pdf Thanks, how do you get these? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 So it looks like I will be doing cooling system and vanos. Well at least I hadn't sold the other car yet! Thanks for all the replies Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted May 13, 2012 Thanks, how do you get these? I found a really good one - http://www.rubmw.ru/vincode/eng/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted May 14, 2012 anyone able to get my options list? WBADE62010BW73173 seems to not work in most of the vin search engines ive found so far Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted May 14, 2012 anyone able to get my options list? WBADE62010BW73173 seems to not work in most of the vin search engines ive found so far Type Value VIN WBADE62010BW73173 Type code DE62 Type 540I (EUR) E series E39 () Series 5 Type LIM Steering RL Doors 4 Engine M62 Displacement 4.40 Power 210 Drive HECK Transmission AUT Colour COSMOSSCHWARZ METALLIC (303) Upholstery STANDARDLEDER/SCHWARZ (N6SW) Prod.date 1997-11-25 Options Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S204A ANTRIEBSAUSLEGUNG EXPORT Shorter final drive ratio S216A SERVOTRONIC HYDRO STEERING-SERVOTRONIC S223A ELEKTRONISCHE DAEMPFER CONTROL(EDC) Electronic Damper Control (EDC) S354A GRUENKEIL-FRONTSCHEIBE Windscreen, green-tinted upper strip S401A SCHIEBE-HEBEDACH, ELEKTRISCH Lift-up-and-slide-back sunroof, electric S415A SONNENSCHUTZROLLO FUER HECKSCHEIBE Sun-blind, rear S423A FUSSMATTEN IN VELOURS Floor mats velours S428A WARNDREIECK Warning triangle and first aid kit S431A INNENSPIEGEL,AUTOMATISCH ABBLENDEND Interior mirror with automatic-dip S438A EDELHOLZAUSFUEHRUNG Fine wood trim S441A RAUCHERPAKET Smoker package S459A SITZVERSTELLUNG, ELEKTR.MIT MEMORY Seat adjustment, electric, with memory S494A SITZHEIZUNG FUER FAHRER/BEIFAHRER Seat heating driver/passenger S500A SCHEINW.WASCHANL./INTENSIVREINIGUNG Headl.washer system/intensive cleaning S534A KLIMAAUTOMATIK Automatic air conditioning Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S548A KILOMETERTACHO Kilometre speedo S602A BORDMONITOR MIT TV On-board monitor withTV S676A HIFI LAUTSPRECHERSYSTEM HiFi speaker system S694A CD-WECHSLER VORBEREITUNG Provisions for BMW 6 CD changer L807A JAPAN-AUSFUEHRUNG NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN S818A BATTERIEHAUPTSCHALTER Battery master switch S823A HEISSLAND-AUSFUEHRUNG Hot-climate version S845A AKUSTISCHE GURTWARNUNG Acoustic fasten seat belt reminder S875A INFRAROTFERNBEDIENUNG Infrared remote control S925A VERSANDSCHUTZPAKET Dispatch protection pack Standard equipment Code Description (interface) Description (EPC) S260A SEITENAIRBAG FUER FAHRER/BEIFAHRER Side airbag for driver/passenger S411A FENSTERHEBER,ELEKTRISCH VORN/HINTEN Window lifts,electric,front/rear S473A ARMAUFLAGE VORN Armrest front S510A LEUCHTWEITENREGELUNG ABBLENDLICHT Headlight vertical aim control S520A NEBELSCHEINWERFER Fog lights S540A GESCHWINDIGKEITSREGELUNG Cruise control S555A BORDCOMPUTER On-board computer V with remote control S853A SPRACHVERSION ENGLISCH Language version, English Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beemn 50 Report post Posted May 14, 2012 I found a really good one - http://www.rubmw.ru/vincode/eng/ yeah that one is good as long you click for english Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted May 14, 2012 I started pulling the cooling system apart tonight, it looks like most things have been replaced in 2010, eg radiator, hoses, belts, expansion tank, so that'a a bonus. I am struggling to get the fan clutch nut off (yes I realise it's left hand thread) I have tried wedging a screwdriver in between the 32mm nut and the pulley nuts as described here.... http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986 but still no luck, gave it a few sharp blows on the spanner with the hammer but it is stuck fast. So sprayed crc all over it and try again tomorrow I guess. Any other tips? The waterpump bearing is destroyed as the pulley is on quite an angle to the engine, I found what looks like roller bearing pieces on the tray under the engine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted May 14, 2012 i got mine off with a couple of sharp hits with a claw hammer on a 32mm spanner. Just take care not to damage the shroud. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted May 14, 2012 I borrowed my mates proper BMW tools, quick flick of your wrists off in under 5 seconds. Worth it imo, even if you just buy the holder, possibly able to get one elsewhere as fan clutches are pretty much one as another. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted May 14, 2012 kinda unrelated but if the fan clutch happened to be stuffed wouldnt be a bad idea to convert to electric fan saves a fair chunk of power Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted May 15, 2012 (edited) Success, got the fan clutch off. If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger spanner and hammer! Edited May 16, 2012 by speedyg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) I have now removed everything, all the cooling parts are stamped 2010, except the water pump 2001! it is absolutely stuffed no bearings left in it, knackered. It's a shame whoever replaced nearly everything in 2010 didn't bother to undo 4 nuts and do the waterpump! Should the fan clutch have a date stamped on it? If it's 2010 I won't replace it. Edited May 16, 2012 by speedyg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted May 16, 2012 Mine has a date on the back of it IIRC, near the nut. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted May 16, 2012 Mine has a date on the back of it IIRC, near the nut. There is a small 00 in a long box and a small 99 in a long box written on the back. Not the usual circular date stamp. Its' the only number apart from the part number I can see on it. The car is 2001 so I guess it might be a 99/00 part. I think I will replace it to be safe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 Vanos seals done, cooling system all but back together, just the fan and shroud to go, I have left these off for now while I fill and bleed the cooling system so I can raise the expansion tank. Turned the ignition on to set heater to hot and also make the small electric waterpump run and in 5 minutes the battery was flat! (The car hasn't run for 3+ weeks) Stink one, was hoping to get it going tonight. Question: To charge the battery, do I trickle charge it by hooking up the charger under the bonnet on the + on the inlet manifold and the - on the rh strut tower as per the Haynes manual, or do I disconnect and remove the battery? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 Vanos seals done, cooling system all but back together, just the fan and shroud to go, I have left these off for now while I fill and bleed the cooling system so I can raise the expansion tank. Turned the ignition on to set heater to hot and also make the small electric waterpump run and in 5 minutes the battery was flat! (The car hasn't run for 3+ weeks) Stink one, was hoping to get it going tonight. Question: To charge the battery, do I trickle charge it by hooking up the charger under the bonnet on the + on the inlet manifold and the - on the rh strut tower as per the Haynes manual, or do I disconnect and remove the battery? Safe enough to trickle charge it from under the bonnet, but equally, not hard to charge at the battery Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedyg 16 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 Just been reading about the e39's having a Calcium battery. I have only got a cheap Arlec charger, so I am guessing that won't do the job? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted June 2, 2012 mine has a lead acid they might have a calcium from factory but i doubt that has lasted 12 years lead acid are about $350 for a huge one like my 540 has Calcium can be three times that so doubtful someone will have used one battery will likely have either PB (lead) or CA (calcium) somewhere on it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites