bravo 35 Report post Posted September 29, 2005 I can't remember where I saw the how-to on this. Anyone able to point me in the right directin. Going to do at the same time as my manual conv. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 3 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 It's a really basic thing to do, providing you have the rod support as opposed to the sheet metal support. There's an artical on it at e30zone, but troll through the old maintenance threads Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bemmaboi 0 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 (edited) Link 5series link e36 still finding it for e30 sorry. Will post when I have found it. I know it doesnt help you having a e30, but other people here might be keen for the above links. Cheers Edited September 30, 2005 by bemmaboi Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 Cheers bemmaboi - that's the one I was thinking of. Carl - mines an '89, and 'box is coming of a '87 - I haven't looked, but it should be the aluminium arm type. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 that looks about right. search e30tech.com or r3vlimited.com, both have heaps of info it doesnt matter which console you have, both can be made to work. the alu one just looks nicer. go the z3 M one....i wouldnt bother with anything not as short as that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bemmaboi 0 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 I think that the first link, e28 short shift, would also work with the e30, but dont hold me to it. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 3 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 Gus, both consoles are easy to replace the levers, just with the sheet metal one you have to take the Z3 lever apart and that requires some effort, I have to use a heat gun on mine to melt the glue holding it together, I tried gluing it back together but it's come apart again...when I get around to it i'll urethane it all back together. As for which lever you choose it's a personal choice, I dare say the Z3 M one would make my box way too notchy and would sit too low in the cabin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 go the z3 M one....i wouldnt bother with anything not as short as that e30 zone and r3v limited recommend the z3 1.9 - not as short as z3-m, but less notchy, and already have the bend required to stop the lever position being further forward.Thanks for the links - I think I can figure it out from the e30 zone how-to combined with all the auto-man conv threads I've been reading. If everything goes to plan will have 'box by next weekend at the latest, then will prob need at least a week- two weeks to get other various parts. Then study for exams, then exam, then sth aux meet, then start conversion....... Man car going to be imobile for awhile... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 just with the sheet metal one you have to take the Z3 lever apart and that requires some effort, no you dont notchy my ass.....its short and its badass. if you look at diagrams the z3 m is very nearly the same height above the ball as the stock e30.....i would bet the 1.9 isnt any higher. its not low at all in the cabin you dont NEED the bend...sure if you really really want it in the stock position...in reality it doesnt matter, i havent bent either of the ones i have done and am happy with both Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 709 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 If i just hack sawed the standard shift lever, would this be any different? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deftones 0 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 If i just hack sawed the standard shift lever, would this be any different? depends where you hacksaw it. Basically you want to affect the throw more than anything so then there's less movement when changing gears. You'll want to change the fulcrom/leverage (sorry scientists out there if I am wrong) so that the point from where the ball is to the bottom of the shift stick is changed. I personally didn't really care about the height above that the gear knob was at, more the distance from the ball below. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 If i just hack sawed the standard shift lever, would this be any different? sawing the lever dont do sh*tyou need to increase the length below the fulcrum, not above it www.howstuffworks.com ?? plus your gear knob wont fit on any more ask me how i know Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Andrew Report post Posted September 30, 2005 If i just hack sawed the standard shift lever, would this be any different? badass short lever with huge throw. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLLIE 26 Report post Posted September 30, 2005 QUOTE (m325i @ Sep 30 2005, 01:46 PM) If i just hack sawed the standard shift lever, would this be any different? badass short lever with huge throw. haha the laws of physics. "bro check my short shift!, it's half as short and twice as hard to change gear, at least it stops the missus driving my car" thats like putting a door handle on the hinged side of a door. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Spargo Report post Posted October 1, 2005 thats like putting a door handle on the hinged side of a door. Ergonowned. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mops 4 Report post Posted October 1, 2005 (edited) Link 5series link e36 still finding it for e30 sorry. Will post when I have found it. I know it doesnt help you having a e30, but other people here might be keen for the above links. Cheers I actually did exacly that 2 months ago.e30 and e36 linkage system is exacly the same, so just follow the guide. Make sure you wont break that supporting rod (aka-shift arm) - replacment costs $250 from the dealer and you have to wait 6 weekks to get it shipped from europe. dont ask me how i know..... it is alloy, but i found a workshop in which they welded it for me and its sweet z3 shift leaver from the dealer will set you back $150. my mate cut and welded about 15mm extension below the flurcum, and it works Sweet ass, but i;m telling you try as much as you can (driveshaft clearance permitting). Feels GOOD now mote that if you arrempt to weld original shift leaver, the plactic bushing on the botton will melt away.... dont ask how i know luckily, we fabricated that joint form pure steel (no plastic busing) on a lathe... you will need the nulon cup and the front and rear shift arm bushings.. and those cheap plastic washers. i managed to make a front arm bushing ($50 at the dealer) from two pieces of vinyl tube differnt diameters, one inside anoother. to get to that bushing you WILL have to drop the tranny from it's mounts and undoo aka. "the b**ch clip* now, the rod joint..... you wil have to replace that.. $90 e36 one. requires several washers to adapt to e30 shift rod.... or just get e30 one. as well do do the job peroperly you will need to remove exhaust, few covers under the car and drop driveshaft from it's bearing and disconect it from the tranny. and drop the tranny off it's mounts as i mentioned before... any questions just ask here or pm me Edited October 1, 2005 by mops Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted October 1, 2005 (edited) Cheers mops - will contact you if I get stuck. I'm doing a manual conversion, so everything is coming out of the car anyway. Will be pulling auto out today, if all goes well will have g/b tomorrow, if not it will arrive next Monday (depends on when my "private courier" is heading to Auckland - today or next sunday) So will be ordering lever and other ancillaries either this week or next (need to eyeball box first incase anything missing.) Thanks again. Edited October 3, 2005 by bravomikewhiskey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
