Arma 134 Report post Posted October 29, 2014 I *think* the headlight adjusters on my Xenon headlight replacements are broken or not working correctly. The motor seems to work fine cause I see the headlight rise when car is turned on. However, I *think* the low beams are pointing a bit lower than they should be, so something is up. Could it be the sensor? I tried moving the low beam manually with hand and it seems to move easily (which sometimes means adjuster is broken I *think*). I *think* too much, need more answers .Anyway, if they are broken - anyone here do repairs for them? I hear they aren't as straight forward as the pre-facelift ones as these lenses are permanently sealed in. Let me know if you've had anything similar done. Would want to avoid buying brand new Xenons ;-)Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted October 29, 2014 I can help. Pm me 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted October 29, 2014 Have a chat to Martin first. The face lift type lights can be opened up and the adjusters replaced if they are broken, As they us the same ones as the pre face lift lights heaps of write ups on how to do it though fiddly and takes a while. If you remove the headlight and give them a shake and they rattle it will be the bits of adjuster loose inside the headlight and you will have your answer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted October 29, 2014 I thought the hard part was that the lens is glued in rather than clipped together lile pfl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted October 30, 2014 I thought the hard part was that the lens is glued in rather than clipped together lile pfl Depends, for the facelifts, half way through 2002 they used epoxy to seal the lenses. before that it was butyl which could be heated up and the lenses can be separated. Jooles has done this method. I chose not to separate the lenses and replaced the adjusters by going in through the low beam bulb hole, and did the high beam adjuster by going in through the lense orientation (LHD or RHD) hole above the front of the lense. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arma 134 Report post Posted October 30, 2014 Depends, for the facelifts, half way through 2002 they used epoxy to seal the lenses. before that it was butyl which could be heated up and the lenses can be separated. Jooles has done this method. I chose not to separate the lenses and replaced the adjusters by going in through the low beam bulb hole, and did the high beam adjuster by going in through the lense orientation (LHD or RHD) hole above the front of the lense. I think I'd prefer going in through the low beam bulb hole (i may regret saying this but oh well).. because the thought of putting headlights in the oven doesn't tickle me well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 I managed to seperate my lenses using a hot air gun, but mine had the butyl seal not the epoxy. Sounds like going in through the bulb housing is probably easier though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arma 134 Report post Posted November 10, 2014 So I been doing it the hard way. Can't find the date anywhere on the headlights so not sure if it has the invincible glue or not (so not sure whether to try the baking method). Anyway, been trying the way Martin did it.Luckily I got one of my busted headlights from the crash to practice on. Haven't gotten far... yet.After fiddling with a t15 driver for ages (as recommended by all the guides out there), I failed and almost stripped the damn bolt on the low beam adjuster. Switched to a t10 and it loosened with no problem at all. The adjusters on these 'busted' headlights are actually still intact, which is making taking them out a bit annoying. After unscrewing the torx screw for the low beam adjuster, I managed to get the bottom part of it out. Had to use a tack lifter to grab it properly, else it was flying around inside the housing:The top part of the adjuster is still in. Trying to figure out how to get that out. Can [barely] see the top piece here:The other thing I'm having trouble with is taking this adjuster unit out (after taking the t20 screws out, which are still attached in the photo). Tried using the techniques in the guides but the thing just doesn't want to come out.. it may have something to do with my adjuster on this busted headlight not being broken, but not sure: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted November 10, 2014 I did mine on the weekend, took me about 3 hours all up to do both headlights. get a heat gun and remove the lenses or try and see if the can be removed. will make your life so much easier. those top big pieces are the pieces you need to get out, plus your headlight may be full of bits of plastic from the adjuster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1874 Report post Posted November 11, 2014 To get the height adjustment motor off u have to use just right amount of man handle. From memory u lift it up and to the side, then pull to separate the ball jointed arm. True that you will have shards of adjuster floating around in the lense area but u can shake it all out and vacuum them. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted November 11, 2014 I have some spare brand new adjusters, you're welcome to have them, Adeeb. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted November 11, 2014 As other have mentioned a heat gun can be used but take care you do not damage the plastic I got the dealers to do my first one and they cooked the plastic using a heat gun hence the oven got used on the next few I did. As mine were 2000, 2001 didn't have that problem but thanks Martin for the heads up on the difference Keep at it you will get their it's a pain I know but nothing come for free. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arma 134 Report post Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) I have some spare brand new adjusters, you're welcome to have them, Adeeb. That would be awesome Jooles! Though I have no idea how to check compatibility - assuming these are Xenon adjusters. Edited November 11, 2014 by Arma Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) Yep, I bought some spares for my E39. I cracked the headlight open using heat when I did the adjusters in mine, was a bit of a PITA but easy enough. It's virtually impossible to get a heat gun to soften the glue evenly all round to crack so you'll need an oven big enough to fit the lightl. I think you heat to around 70-75°c (remember most of the DIYs are in °F and if you mix up your °s you'll melt your light!). I'd say moderate to high risk of damaging the light housing this way, Martin's way is much better but not sure if it's easier/harder. EDIT: I used this DIY http://blog.bavauto.com/1835/bmw-e39-5-series-floppy-headlights-replace-adjusters/ Edited November 11, 2014 by jeffbebe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted November 11, 2014 The write up Julian has covers it the only thing I found was pre-cut the new thread in the adjusters before you fit them into the headlight. This reduces the strain placed on the adjuster and makes it easier when you come to re- assemble the headlights and adjust them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted November 12, 2014 Didn't have any problems with the adjusters I bought but have heard of the issue Allan mentions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites