E39 Starting Issues.

[Lucan 196]

So I'd been having intermittent starting issues with my E39 (530i).

Would start up fine then sometimes I'd need to turn key on/off multiple times before it'd crank and start up.

I assumed it was the ignition switch so tried pulling the switch apart and cleaning terminals. No difference.

Tried new ignition switch. No change.

(Note starter would click but not crank)

Went away on holiday for approx 3 weeks.

Came home, battery dead. So charged it.

Tried turning over, nothing, not even a click from the starter.

I've done bit of research and with an E39 it seems like a number of electrical issues could be the problem!

I attempted to test if I was getting 12v at any of the starter terminals while key was turned to start position. Only found voltage at the live cable.

Any ideas? New battery, Key, key antenna perhaps?

What else can I try or test to eliminate issues?

Cheers

Lucan

[Filth 5]

Is the car making a clicking noise when you try starting it?

If you are getting a clicking sound then that's good - don't recharge your current battery just replace with a new one.

This could also be another solution:

Try this too:

Edited May 29, 2015 by Filth

[Lucan 196]

Not anymore (sorry starters not clicking anymore, didn't see the rest of the post.)

Edited May 29, 2015 by Lucan

[Allanw 1071]

The E39 MUST have a decent battery, otherwise they can have a fair few weird issues.

If the starter is clicking (ie power to the solenoid, and the main live) when you try to crank, that suggests a starter fault.

If you don't get clicking, it can be any number of things, and a scan MAY help identify something, such as an intermittant key code issue (which leaving the battery off overnight can SOMETIMES help).

[Filth 5]

The E39 MUST have a decent battery, otherwise they can have a fair few weird issues.

If the starter is clicking (ie power to the solenoid, and the main live) when you try to crank, that suggests a starter fault.

If you don't get clicking, it can be any number of things, and a scan MAY help identify something, such as an intermittant key code issue (which leaving the battery off overnight can SOMETIMES help).

Second this re the battery, my car was doing some funky stuff last year - replaced battery and all was fine again.

[Lucan 196]

Ok so I just bridged the EWS and the car cranks! Rules out starter and solenoid, but doesn't fire up now.

Either key or antenna ring??

[B.M.W Ltd 950]

It needs scanning now Lucan

[Lucan 196]

Yea I figured that Glenn.

Yesterday:

New Battery - No change.

Today:

Just scanned the car "Error 128 EWS Transmission Parity" cleared all errors.

Attempted to start, nothing.

Attempted to sync EWS, error popped up "ECU Rrejected"....?

Edited June 1, 2015 by Lucan

[Lucan 196]

Further, tried checking to see if key was being detected or not.

Now a bit more confused

Anyone here an INPA expert?

[Lucan 196]

For future reference: new coded key through BMW got the car running!

No idea how the previous keys failed. Can still lock/unlock with it but just won't start it.

[cliffdunedin 8]

What did the new key sting you Lucan? I nearly lost my only coded one at the Rugby club the other night and really need to get one before that dick Murphy and his stupid law hit me.

[Lucan 196]

Not sure if it makes a difference but for my remote key: $350ish

Edited June 17, 2015 by Lucan

[allan 295]

Just read this so a bit behind have a chat to Tom he re-coded a couple of my keys to the ews when I was having trouble with the remote access might be able to throw some light on your problem.