tawa 150 Report post Posted November 17, 2015 Got both in there yesterday and lifted whole front of car up, didn't seem to flex at all. However I do need a large size trolley jack as the one I used was right at it's lift limit to get the stands under. Anyway, I'm looking to buy in parts to suss out this manual conversion (http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/53978-e36-manual-conversion-sold/ what I have so far). I'll be replacing the clutches friction disc since it is out anyway. Are there other cheapish bits that should be replaced during? and who's good to deal with for price/service on these parts? And any other tips would be appreciated. The more info/parts/prep I can do before taking the go bits out the better! And is it just me or does this site not have a functioning forum search? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) the e36 lifting thinggy that i got from Pelican in the states was solid steel, build like a tank and weighed quite a bit. never folded in the few times i used it. I sold it to someone on here and im sure itll still be going strong (i hope!) IIRC the E36 was the only one to use the in sill lifting holes? i seem to recall my E39 and E46 using under sill pads. Edited November 17, 2015 by KwS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Got both in there yesterday and lifted whole front of car up, didn't seem to flex at all. However I do need a large size trolley jack as the one I used was right at it's lift limit to get the stands under. Anyway, I'm looking to buy in parts to suss out this manual conversion (http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/53978-e36-manual-conversion-sold/ what I have so far). I'll be replacing the clutches friction disc since it is out anyway. Are there other cheapish bits that should be replaced during? and who's good to deal with for price/service on these parts? And any other tips would be appreciated. The more info/parts/prep I can do before taking the go bits out the better! And is it just me or does this site not have a functioning forum search? The 4 cylinders have a different part number for the clutch package - I kinda recall hearing they have a smaller friction disc and lower clamping force on the pressure plate? The 328i had the 240mm clutch matched to the ZF box, I think the 228mm won't stand up to the extra torque for long. It's a real bitch of a job swapping clutches in these, I'd go for a new clutch kit and single mass flywheel, replace the throwout bearing with a new one at the same time. There are kits on trademe, try Milland too. Replace the pivot pin while the box is out of the car too, the stock ones are made of nylon and wear out - I got a brass one through Pelican parts when I did my conversion a couple years back. Might also pay to do the gearbox oil seals at the same time, add the rear main seal to the list too. Oh, and the M4x engines used a ring gear with a different tooth count on the flywheel so if you do choose to stick with the current clutch (take the flywheel to a clutch shop first and have them check it out for excessive play & surface condition) you'll need the matching starter motor - the M5x ones don't fit. Replace the shifter pivot linkage, shifter arm bushings, shift rod cup bushing and double check that the 4 cylinder shift linkage is long enough for the 6 cyl. There is great disagreement if the two are interchangeable, if the shift lever is offset in the cabin once its all hooked up you'll need the right rod otherwise you'll have trouble getting into 2nd & 4th. Easiest thing is to look at Pelican parts/ECC etc and see their shifter kits - makes more sense when you can see all the diagrams. I got lucky when I did my swap, the kit I bought came from another M50B25 car so I skipped all this mucking about. The other big thing is what ratio is your diff? If you're any shorter than 3.46:1 you'll effectively turn your 5 speed into a 4 speed box, first gear becomes hopelessly short and your cruising revs at 100km/hr are just ridiculous. The 328s got either the 2.93, 3.07 and 3.15 from the factory, remember that the ZF & Getrag boxes have a 1:1 5th unlike the earlier ones that had an overdrive. So if you're unlucky and got a 3.64 or shorter you'll need the right diff too - not too hard to find or expensive, but it adds another job to the list. All in, its the best bang for buck mod you can do to a 3er with a B25/28 imo. Next on the list will be S50 headers, decat the exhaust and throw a nice muffler at it Edited November 17, 2015 by Ahmedsinc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted November 19, 2015 Thanks for that. Didn't know about the clutch issue. Sounds like I have to try and track down at 240mm version. The diff is 3.46, but may look at changing that, as you say. Exhaust is on the list, but only worth doing after the slushbox is biffed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rubix 434 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 3.46 was brilliant in my 5sp converted (Albeit ZF) 328 - first gear quite usable and 3k rpm at 100kph. Got better fuel economy than the jatco auto in it prior.Nice and quick too with the short ratio. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 i hated my 3.46 in my converted 323i, 1st was too short, and 3k rpm at 100kph sucked hard on the open road. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 I think the 8 and 5 series of the era use the same points, I'm sure we could get Martin (BreakMyWindow - M5) or Julian (jeffbebe - 850) to test them. My M3 is comparatively light so tbh, if they work for you they'll probably work for me! I don't mind testing (in a controlled way so the car doesn't drop suddenly!). I almost bought some steel ones from a US fabricator recently who was doing a limited run for the 8er crowd on Bimmerforums.com... But at $150 a pop landed I couldn't justify it at the time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1559 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 IIRC the E36 was the only one to use the in sill lifting holes? i seem to recall my E39 and E46 using under sill pads. E31 has them too but definitely not E39. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted December 6, 2015 Ended up getting a spoiler locally that was right color, came with boot lid so I just fixed up some rust around the spoiler bolts, and swapped out the whole lid. Debadged it while I had all the polishing sh*t out. Got me thinking that I'd like to change the roundels from blue/white, to copper/silver; anyone done custom roundels locally? Making more lifting bars still on the list. Clutch arrived for the manual conversion, but going to get some gearbox seals etc as well. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted December 19, 2015 Quick question re the G220 box, the input shaft only has a single bearing in the box right, with the pilot bearing on the crank to secure shaft alignment? Cos my input shaft has a bit of play typical for such a setup, but f**ked if there is another bearing hiding back there... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted December 19, 2015 Quick question re the G220 box, the input shaft only has a single bearing in the box right, with the pilot bearing on the crank to secure shaft alignment? Cos my input shaft has a bit of play typical for such a setup, but f**ked if there is another bearing hiding back there... RealOEM is your friend http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=BF32-EUR-08-1993-E36-BMW-325i&mg=23 Shou;ld be able to figure out how many bearings and where they are hiding from the diagrams. 90% sure off the top of my head there is only the one input bearing but the exploded diagrams will confirm. Happy hunting Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richard 384 Report post Posted December 21, 2015 I'd be keen on a set too ,please. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted December 28, 2015 Turns out they're not as strong as they need to be, this was done lifting from a fairly bad angle so it took more weight than normal, and with a block to space it out a bit so the force was further out than normal; but that sorta sh*t happens I guess. So I'll keep using these ones under a watchful eye, but won't be making any more. Anyway, car is up, just waiting for the heat to drop a bit then I'll go swear at the old gearbox until it falls off... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted December 28, 2015 ^ Interesting but I think as expected. Be careful using that in the future, the next stage of failure will be the aluminium tearing at the outside of the bend and when that happens it will fail catastrophically and quickly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted December 30, 2015 Got most of the way through the conversion now, just the driveline and electrics to go. Any tips for the electrical part of the conversion? TCM delete, coding, etc... f**k that auto is a big bitch of a gearbox, made slightly trickier by leaving the torque converter on the engine when removing the box, then almost breaking my arm lowering it onto trolley for removal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted January 1, 2016 No coding required. There's plenty of how-tos on the web, you can delete the auto dme but for the effort involved in removing all the wiring its not worth the bother. I have on mine, but I had the engine and loom out of the car at the time - not sure it would be possible with the harness in the car. Just whip the trans fail light out of the dash cluster if it offends. Found this link http://mye36project5spdswap.weebly.com/swapinterior-computer.html and it seems the M52s might be a little different to my M50. Either way, its not hard Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted January 1, 2016 Yeh, trouble is they tend to differ on the 'how'. Most of them it just sounds like two wire joins for starter lockout and reverse lights, will tidy up unconnected wires but leave em connected for now I guess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted January 2, 2016 The other thing will be to compare the two wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual. Stolen copies are easily found in pdf on the web. Shouldn't be too hard either way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted January 2, 2016 Yeh think I've got one of those kicking around, good plan. Went to bolt the driveshaft up the other day, found the kit parts were mismatched which is a bit annoying, the guibo is set for 12mm bolts, with the output flange for 10mm. Will get some grade 12.7 M10 bolts and machine up some spacers for the guibo. So I got bored and took the Jatco to bits, f**king rough looking weld on the torque converter. Heaps of cool bits inside though, might see about turning it into a coffee table or something. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted January 2, 2016 Automatics are beautiful things. Endlessly fascinating! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted January 3, 2016 Lol, I hope you have a concrete floor - those things are crazy heavy! Think I got about ten bucks for the Jatco in the 325i once I had separated all the ferrous from the ali. Good fun tearing it apart too Still kicking myself for getting rid of the bellhousing though! Keep the input shaft though, makes a really useful clutch plate alignment tool with a little electrical tape Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted January 3, 2016 Yeh, I reckon just the gear assembly (shown) is at least as heavy as the whole G220 box. Do you need a bellhousing for something? looks the the main housing section might make a nice herb planter... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted January 3, 2016 I have a hunch that the Jatco bh would work with the Getrag 256/5 dogleg box. Having said that, I'd need to have a 265/5 to test the theory on first I vaguely recall the G250 weighing around 30kg compared to the 70kg of the jap auto. Either way, it's a damn sight lighter than the horrible slushy it replaced! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tawa 150 Report post Posted January 3, 2016 Do those boxes not come with the right BH? Either way, I can take measurements from this one; and probably send it up to you (just price of postage) once I confirm how I'm going to use the rest of the box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted January 3, 2016 The 265/5 was the box used on the Euro E30 M3; E28 & E24 coupes, when they do come up for sale (rarely) its usually missing the bh as the seller is changing to a race trans. As I don't have a 265/5 to confirm or deny my hunch it's entirely academic, but thanks for the offer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
