twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 15, 2016 (edited) Just pondering on whether should get my car lowered a bit more. Believe it's currently just on some lows, although car came lowered so not 100% sure. Would love to see some pictures of how it sits if anyone has any with super lows, also how practical would you say it is for day to day driving? I normally try avoid a lot of driveways already as it is just because I've snagged and scraped a few times. Also has anyone had any experience compressing their springs? What would your recommendation be? Edited January 15, 2016 by twiggles94 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3344 Report post Posted January 15, 2016 what are you aiming to achieve? Are you looking to stay flat at 200kph on the curves of SH20? Provide convenient excuses as to why you can't carry passengers ("sorry. with my superlows I can't carry your fat ass in the back; it'll just rub out my tyres and hit my exhaust. you'll have to walk.")? Look for something TUV approved. At least that way you'll have something considered, test and approved by German engineers that it won't totally compromise the safety and practicality of your vehicle. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kulgan 1042 Report post Posted January 15, 2016 Here's a couple I found and theres a ton more with all the info you want from a quick google search. https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=bmw+e39+lowered&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=979&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiQs6v776zKAhUGnZQKHRSDA-QQsAQIGQ If your already scraping on driveways you probably don't want to go much lower. Then there's ride quality as well. The lower you go the harder it will get. You need to find a nice medium between looks and driveability. Nex Coilovers. FK Silverline coilovers 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) Hahahaha, just want a slightly firmer ride and a little more drop, I don't drive my car that aggressively or pretend it's a race car so don't really need top end stuff. Here's a picture of it at the moment, I think I probably want to go another 20mm or so, currently have some turquoisey coloured lowering springs (unsure of brand?) Although I've heard you can't lower the ride height too much on standard struts as they bottom out unless they are the sport model? Thing is I am not sure whether the ones on my car are standard or sport as they came with it. Obviously the car is non sport but previous owner might have switched struts when he put the lowering springs in? Is there anyway to tell without too much trouble. Would preferably try to avoid the coilovers if possible Dave as the added cost and hassle of the suspension n cert probably isn't worth it for someone like me. Has anyone done something like this? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/auction-1015944714.htm . Is it gna be a sh*t ride?' Edited January 17, 2016 by twiggles94 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2136 Report post Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) if all you want is 20mm, take your spring pads out top and bottom, that should give you the best part of that. Or run oversize tyres next time you buy tyres, went this route on my E30, gives the low look, wheels fill up the gaurds etc but i dont need to worry about speed bumps, driveways etc. Edited January 17, 2016 by _Ethrty-Andy_ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3344 Report post Posted January 17, 2016 yeah call me conservative, I reckon the drop you have already looks good. you're right about matching struts to low springs. Suggest you safely raise and support your vehicle, get under it with WD40 and a rag, you should be able to find the part numbers. Same with your springs; somewhere there (under the grime) should be a reference that you can google with. Hope that helps. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 17, 2016 That doesn't sound a bad idea at all. Will the spring pads affect anything Andy? I'll check out the struts while I'm there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted January 17, 2016 First how deep are your pockets? you need to considered the whole suspension set up in your car not just messing with the springs or struts to lower it for the looks. When one item in the set up is altered it places extra load on every other component and then thing start to come unstuck for one the handling goes out the window, tyre rubbing steering geo needs to be altered and set up by some one that knows what they are doing $$$$$$$ etc all for what. Bit of a rant but be very careful and think it through before you go down that path best of luck. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted January 18, 2016 If theyre a turqouise coloured spring they are most probably dobi springs. spring pads wont effect anything except grip the springs and stop them from spinning. otherwise you can take your springs out and have them compressed that little bit more would be your easiest options 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3344 Report post Posted January 18, 2016 removing your spring pads will probably introduce noise such as creaking. treating just springs and shocks on an older vehicle is only doing part of the repair. If they've never been replaced, you'll also be needing strut bearings, bump stops, nuts, bolts, dust boots, probably the factory tower reinforcement plates, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushes. Consider these parts as you do your research. If you've got the suspension in pieces fitting new shocks and springs, you'll find the original bump stops will be knackered.... as will the strut bearings. Best be prepared, this will transform your car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) Sorry been bit busy. My pockets are NOT deep by any means lol. But I AM willing to pay money if need be, it's not incredibly urgent so if I must I can wait a little till I save a bit extra coin. As for what you said, I understand what you are trying to say but am I wrong to assume these things have been factored in when the manufacturers designed the lowering springs/coilovers for a particular model of car. I mean it's not like I'm planning on putting in parts made for another car as some do. Maybe I'm not quite getting what you're saying, if so feel free to elaborate. I am no expert on this topic so bear with me. Honestly I am not overly fussed about how it's going to perform so long as it's not going to worsen my handling or affect the longevity and function of the rest of the car, but you're leading me to believe it will? Olaf any idea how much I'll be looking at for replacing those bits n bobs. Edited January 20, 2016 by twiggles94 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 Fair comment do some research and learn from what others who have gone through this process on their e39s and some will turn out OK others have had problems. All I was trying to do was to make you aware that it is not as simple and inexpensive as some would have you believe to do this job correctly and achieve a good sustainable out come. Their are from memory some three standard e39 suspension set ups for the six cylinder models standard, M sport 1, M sport 2 their is a difference in spring tension and ride height plus strut set up after that their are the coil overs etc but these have to be certified so extra cost. The m sport I believe is some 20mm lower gives a harder ride etc other member on here are more experienced with the geometry side of things and could explain it to you. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 23, 2016 Yeap will do, definitely will do abit of research before i throw money down on something. Done that one too many times! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3344 Report post Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) Hi Ian, sorry for the slow response. For the effort of removing your front end suspension assy, or indeed just the rear struts, you don't want to do the job twice. Your bump stops will be knackered. There is no point re-fitting a stuffed bump-stop to new struts. You know all about it if you hit a broken bump-stop - bottoming out. I found - on my e46 rears - the top of the shock was rusted and swollen, the (perished) bump stop was stuck on it, and tore off when we tried to remove it. Bump stops are relatively cheap. Similarly, your dust boots will be hardened and won't prevent dust and grime reaching your strut/shock seals, promoting wear of your new shocks. The front strut bearings - an essential part of macpherson strut assembly - will be knackered, with wear and play. The strut bearings are what allows your strut to turn with the steering. The rear shock mounts frequently fail, and in the long run - particularly in lowered applications - contribute to damage to the body where the shock passes through to the mounts. As a guide, for my recent e46 suspension refresh, the bushes/bearings/bumpstops/dustboots/fasteners came to about 40% of the total budget. The car now rides like new. Seriously, why would you drop the strut, use spring compressors to change springs, disassemble the strut assembly, and then re-install/re-assemble worn-out parts? IMV, do it once, do it right. Most of the fasteners are recommended by BMW as one-time-use. You can choose to re-use... it's false economy, and I don't care to second-guess the BMW engineers for an extra $20. The good news is that most of the bushes/bearings etc are standard parts, regardless of M Sport (though the sway bar bushes may be harder durometer). It's your shocks and springs you want to consider for performance. You can save a few clams on OEM or similar parts, ten bucks here, twenty bucks there... the only thing you gamble with is longevity. For example, five or more OEM or OEM-quality suppliers for Strut bearings, with a variance in price for the part. It's worth noting that a lot of folks have a car with shagged out suspension, consider they need lower/stiffer etc and have never driven the car performing as factory spec in new condition. They might be surprised! good luck with your search. You've a car that was streets ahead of the rest back in the 90's, and was a benchmark in it's class. Taking a Toyota Camry approach to your suspension will be knobbling it's true performance/ride/handling/comfort/safety. Adopt the noodle and beans diet for a couple of months, feed your car the care it needs! #8 ) regards Edited January 28, 2016 by Olaf 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twiggles94 8 Report post Posted January 29, 2016 Wow mate, appreciate your in depth response. Definitely convinced me, LOL at the noodle and beans diet. Been on that ever since I bought the car hahahah it feels like never ending expenses and purchases but it's so rewarding. More dangerous than the casino for me tbh. My car's in the shop being painted at the moment anyway so I'll take my time to save a bit n do some research on some options. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3344 Report post Posted January 29, 2016 you're very welcome #8 ) yep, they need some TLC as they age, perhaps more than you're average common-or-garden mid-market runner, but as you say, very rewarding. let us know how you get on! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimmyfresh 1 Report post Posted January 31, 2016 Awesome amount of info in this thread! Keep it up Olaf. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites