WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 So as I'm going through the process of transplanting a m60 into a e30 and have to make up a driveshaft to suit a thought of instead of running a 2 piece driveshaft, getting rid of the centre hanger bearing and having a 1 piece driveshaft built. Now what would be the cons of going down this route instead of the factory way? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 I think you might find the tube has to be quite a bit bigger to handle the torque over that length without bowing. What would the advantage be? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Just trying to work it out before having to buy two driveshafts to hack up to make one. And to remove the entire hanger bearing which can cause shuddering under heavy load Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 If you talk to ADL or someone similar they should be able to tell you what size tube it will need, might be worth a phone call? Also any modification to the driveshaft has to be done properly for a cert, so usually easiest to get someone like that to do the whole thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Yeah I was going to get a driveshaft shop to make it either way but going single saves me having to buy two driveshafts. But I will talk to some people and see what their thoughts are Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Definitely stick with a 2pc drive shaft. I went through numerous 1pc shafts (2.75" to 3" thin & tick walled), and all had vibrations of varying degrees. Went back to a 2pc and it was as smooth as silk. I should caveat the statement with the vibration being at ~6000 driveshaft rpm, so race track speeds of ~220kph But not the distraction you want along the back straight at manfield... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 410 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 You should be able to use a e30 rear half, real easy to come across, and an e36 front half from a ZF with the bigger flange that mates to the 420G. Measure it up, you might find something OEM that fits, I did. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Really? What driveshaft did you end up finding that fitted? No one seems to have documented anything with the m60 and 420g that's a direct fit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 For a simple once piece driveshaft to work, I think you need solid differential mounts and engine mounts so it takes out any pulling or pressing forces on the shaft. Stock stuff moves around quite a bit hence the use of a splined shaft for stress to be dissipated at that point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 410 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Well depends where you mount the engine really, you can read the lengths online on RealOEM, Just check it uses the larger diameter guibo and you will be able to use an e36 ZF or possibly some E46 driveshaft. I literally just used an e30 rear half and an E36 328i Auto (ZF) front half and it fit perfect. Yours sits more forward so you could check the manual driveshafts or atleast use a 328 auto shaft and extend the front section, it's quite fat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Yeah do what John said. Use the e30 rear half and whatever you can find to fit onto the front then get the driveshaft place to cut/add to make up the correct length. It pays to get friendly with one of the wreckers, I mucked around at Ray's for a while, and with the help of Sam, we finally managed to mongrel two bits together. Think it was around $500 to add a little bit to the length and balance it at adl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted February 15, 2016 yeah my thinking now is once i get it in and measure up the length, from realoem it seems the guibo is only from the v8s, so driveshaft may not mount up???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted February 16, 2016 yeah my thinking now is once i get it in and measure up the length, from realoem it seems the guibo is only from the v8s, so driveshaft may not mount up???? This. The front flange of a V8 is larger than the 6 cyl. Edit; the e36/46 ZF flange is too small. You'll need something like an auto shaft to suit the body and a front half shaft to suit the V8 (auto and manual V8s share the same flange). Take the 2 pieces to a drive shaft shop and have them mash the 2 front shafts together. They'll cut it at the welds to the flange and the uni and put a new piece in. Once you have the engine and gearbox in there you can take a measurement. Gunna need to shorten the shifter too. Ah the joys of real engine swaps ha. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted February 16, 2016 Also, all the single piece shafts I've been around are splined into the output shaft of the gearbox. Pretty sure that's not gunna mix well with a flange? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted February 16, 2016 Also, also, flange flange flange puhuhu 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted February 16, 2016 hahaha that was my orginal thinking of building the front shaft out of two and having it made to fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
