N54 rebuild who’s the best?

[gaijin 174]

Whoa! Don't get me into this Nick......sheesh!

[GorGasm 563]

All I can say is, double your budget and aim for 600 crank, not wheel hp.

 

[dirtydoogle 383]

ARP head studs, rod bolts and send it. 

Plenty of race engine specialists out there, get the Google and phone out. 

I wouldn't be playing the 600 hp game on a hypereutectic piston without e85 though, they hate knock 

[Herbmiester 923]

Some info on what diff to use. A Wavetrack, or M Factory LSD will be good value for money but you could also use a plate style LSD if you want really positive lockup.

Large bolted Diffs are the ones you want. 

 

Edited January 23, 2018 by Herbmiester

[M3AN 4016]

On 1/23/2018 at 11:54 AM, Benji335i said:

My custom tune is written for this transmission car. 

Surely you'll need (in cabin) selectable maps, boost ramps and traction control settings to suit different conditions/purposes?

I can't see 600hp on a wet NZ motorway working particularly well... 

[Michael. 2313]

If you only have 10-15k, better off to do a few mods an make a nice, reliable ~223rwkw car, that's 300rwhp, heaps for a daily driving road car. 

Enough to be faster than just about every original M car.  What more do you need?

Higher levels than this are just ways to show off to your mates with dyno sheets and decrease reliability.  

[Stevie S 49]

Yeah I don't think 10-15K will be enough. Turbo setup only will be at least a 3rd of that before install.  Exhange rates freight and installs will send it well north. I am currently FBO with ethanol

[Benji335i 21]

16 hours ago, M3AN said:

Surely you'll need (in cabin) selectable maps, boost ramps and traction control settings to suit different conditions/purposes?

I can't see 600hp on a wet NZ motorway working particularly well... 

The way the car is mapped I can do boost by gear before it’s written and select what boost I want for what gear! 

[Benji335i 21]

15 hours ago, Michael. said:

If you only have 10-15k, better off to do a few mods an make a nice, reliable ~223rwkw car, that's 300rwhp, heaps for a daily driving road car. 

Enough to be faster than just about every original M car.  What more do you need?

Higher levels than this are just ways to show off to your mates with dyno sheets and decrease reliability.  

Valid point will get to the point of is it worth it, and just do FBO I’ll have a think of I didn’t have a spare long block I’d just do FBO 

[dirtydoogle 383]

22 hours ago, M3AN said:

Surely you'll need (in cabin) selectable maps, boost ramps and traction control settings to suit different conditions/purposes?

I can't see 600hp on a wet NZ motorway working particularly well... 

I've got a right foot for that

[GorGasm 563]

My old car had crank 550hp and 800NM.  sh*t was legitimately feral to drive as the torque was available immediately.  It was funny, but not fun.  Hence I now have an M5 with no mods and it's great.

[Herbmiester 923]

Back in the 80's my Torana had a 450ish (Calculated via weight and 1/4 mile time) small block and being NA rather than turbo the torque didn't really hit until 3000 rpm so unlike modern turbo motors you had time to prepare (sort of). Anyway Bogon Wagon stories aside you do get used to having a lot of power and I became adept at not wrapping it around power poles. Ironically at the time the car actually handled quite well, RTS suspension and some expensive Goodyear tyres helped. Pissed of a colleague who had an Alfa GTV and could never get me out of his rear vision mirrors on the Napier Taupo Rd, (Until the straights  )