Grey Thunder - 1990 e30 316i

[Olaf 3317]

On 10/27/2018 at 12:38 PM, gjm said:

There's so much good about an older car that hasn't been optioned up - less to go wrong, less to worry about, and less to spend money on replacing this or that unusual part.

 

19 hours ago, dirtydoogle said:

I think that's why I've had my e36 316 longer than any other e36,   I really enjoy the simple cars. 

you've both hit the nail on it's head. ?
 I'm enjoying driving a simple car, though it is a little more 'work' at the wheel.  Some of that is down the just-about-worn-out clutch, old tyres, etc etc.   The experience will significantly improve as each item is rectified/remediated.

[Olaf 3317]

28 Oct 2018.  258,165kms

I've sorted a few things from the list already.  

1.  Windscreen Washers.  
I recently found this handy little bag that I purchased from the nearby BMW dealer in London (Milcars in Golders Green) in 2001.  It had been in hiding in a box in the attic.  Always knew it would come in handy.  And I now have a spare airbox clip, for a 325i anyway.  Not sure it's any good for the 316i airbox.  Anyway, I did some fault-finding on the washers... the left one was completely non-functional.  I disconnected the line at the tee-valve, and it cleared out... I got it working though it was a bit average.  Decided to replace both washer nozzles, and the tee-valve.  I had the parts, might as well fix it properly.  Result.   A proper sh*t of a job when you're just on average height, and doing it on the side of the road.  Being 6 ft tall with long arms would make this much easier!  

The black plastic BMW elbows clip on to the nozzles, and the feed line clips into the bottom of the tee with the same kind of fitting.  I used two of the jubille clips to replace the Oettiker clamps that I'd cut away.  

 

2.  Wiper Blades. 

I replaced the wiper blades, as the ones on the car were crusty and as much use as a chocolate teapot.  Bosch units, nice.

 

3.  Pedal Rubbers

One of those "these are inexpensive and I've room in the shipment" purchases; I replaced the brake and clutch pedal rubbers.  Safety first and all that.

Before:

After:

 

Now I'm onto the replacement antenna, and may get to the fuel filter this afternoon, as well as cleaning and testing that radiator.  The lawns are calling, though...  update later.

Edited October 28, 2018 by Olaf
photos, formatting.

[Olaf 3317]

28 Oct 2018.  258,165kms

4.  Radio Antenna.  

Ya'll recall the old antenna (earlier in this thread); I scored a NOS (New Old Stock, not Nitrous Oxide Systems ?), Hirschmann AUTA 2050 automatic antenna.  Not perfect (the originals were AUTA6000's), though it was there and the price was right.

I've fitted it this afternoon.  Had to find my smouldering iron and some heatshrink.  It's not a perfect fit, hopefully it's more weather-tight that the previous Alpha.

I think I'll get some longer tube, I can route the drain to that outside vent...

 

right then, the "lawns" are calling.  Next jobs:  testing the radiator, and taking care of a bit of spot-rust on the rear ARB. 

Edited October 28, 2018 by Olaf
link

[Olaf 3317]

30 Oct 2018.  258,177kms

... more small stuff.

1.  Clutch master cylinder cap.  

Jon Mechaniker had found the master cylinder cap cracked during his in-depth examination of the car.  Today I replaced it with a Genuine BMW unit (21521119541).  Simple job, a squirt or three of brakecleen and a wipe off, swap em over.  Job's a good un.

 (SAE J1703 turns out to be DOT3).

2.  Oil Filler cap.  

I found it cheaper to buy an OEM Febi unit (11121716993), than to buy a genuine rubber seal.  Another simple yet satisfying job.  

... and in other news, I've been having fun in my workshop.  After clearing a little workspace!  I've set the rear ARB up in my woodworking vice, and used a flap disc on my grinder to strip back the rust in patches.  I've then used CRC rust converter on the bare steel, and this morning three coats of Rustolleum all-in-one gloss black spray paint.  It's curing nicely.  I've fitted Lemforder end links, and am prepping and building the rest of the mounting hardware, getting ready to install later this week.  I'm having fun. 

Edited June 7, 2020 by Olaf
another pic, part numbers, DOT3

[Olaf 3317]

31 Oct 2018.  258,177kms

... more small stuff.

I got the rear ARB and hardware ready for install, found my M8 tap (to chase out the factory holes), and got my tools ready for tomorrow.  

EDIT:  A little more on anti-roll bar bar prep.  The few spots of scab rust on the bar (to be expected of any used ARB) were treated as follows:

• clamp bar in vise with soft jaws
• strip rust using flap-disc in angle grinder, feathering out the edges
• treat rust (I used CRC Rust Converter)
• when ready (nice blue-black finish), paint.
• I used Rustolleum all-in-one Black Gloss spraypaint.  About $20 at Bunnings.  Thin coat, flash off, another thin coat.  I repeated three times with about 15 mins between coats, in a warm-ish workshop (not following the instructions to the letter, mind).  The paint flowed-out nicely, didn't run, and hardened nicely.  It blends in well with the factory epoxy finish, too. Result!  I hadn't even bothered to prep the bar with scotch-brite!

I tested the used radiator Jon had kindly lent me (sale or return).  My dreamt-up test rig worked, though sadly the rad failed.  Leaking at the seam between LH side tank and core, at 15psi.  Hey ho, perhaps I'll need to get a new 'un.  My better half is now teasing me that surely I'd already exhausted the parts budget for this car? ?

Question:  Where's the best source in NZ, folks?  17111719024 for M40-powered Manual Trans e30?  

 

Here's an image of my test rig.  Tyre Tube with hose clamps around apertures, pressure cap on tank, schrader valve on one inlet.  Fill rad and test for leaks.  Bicycle pump gentle part-strokes up to 10PSI, then slowly to 20psi (the cap's rated pressure - 1.4bar).  It made it to 15PSI.  Oh well, at least I didn't install in the car then learn.  So I guess I should buy a new one.

Wish me luck for tomorrow, rear bar install.

Edited November 1, 2018 by Olaf
image, expanded on the ARB paint prep

[Olaf 3317]

1 Nov 2018.  258,191kms

not so much success on the rear bar install.  We had to retreat, will continue.  We left the receiver brackets on the rear trailing arms.  Having trouble with the bushing mount with the bar; can't get the bolt into the bodywork.  We've chased the bolt hole through with an M8 tap to ensure it's clear.  

EDIT:  more detail on the scenario.  

Car elevated, bar in position with some finagling.  At the top (bush to chassis): Brand new genuine BMW bush shells, retaining bolts, 13.5mm bushes to match the bar.

At the bottom (endlinks to subframe): Lemforder OEM end links, Genuine BMW brackets, nuts, and elected to use the included Lemforder bolts and nuts (higher grade than the Genuine BMW items I purchased).

I used ATE Plastilube Silicon Brake Grease to lube the rubber parts for installation as it's safe with rubber.  

With the bar in position beneath the car, we placed the bushes around the bar with a thin smear of lube in place, and pressed the shells around the bushes.  Then offering the top of the shell into the chassis slot, we'd then clamp the bottom of the shell against the chassis, and offer up the bolt.  We tried using a pin-punch as a drift to locate the two holes (chassis and bush shell) together.  Each time, unable to get the right location; the angle of the bolt was always off!  

How do you get this sorted?  What trick are we missing?

 

We did mount my new rear badge, after we'd packed the tools and parts away.  Genuine BMW part 51141872969.

Edited November 1, 2018 by Olaf
more detail on rear arb difficulty

[qube 3570]

Any nice photo of the read end or 3/4 shot?

[Olaf 3317]

1 hour ago, qube said:

Any nice photo of the read end or 3/4 shot?

Been too busy fitting in working on her to get very creative with my cameras, Kyu.  It’s on my list, will grab some this weekend ??

[kiwi535 538]

On 11/2/2018 at 9:36 AM, Olaf said:

.......................................... will grab some this weekend ??

good luck with that mate

[Olaf 3317]

Yeah it was a tad precipitous!

Tonight I’m working on HT leads and measuring fuel line lengths, I’ll make a point of taking dusk shots on the test drive.  It’s a stunning day in Welly, today.

[freaknout 47]

What a great adventure. I can’t wait to try it out for myself...

[Olaf 3317]

1 hour ago, freaknout said:

What a great adventure. I can’t wait to try it out for myself...

it's a trip!  you'll be most welcome.  

[Olaf 3317]

I did find this last night, which is very useful... https://bmweba.com/eba-01-29-9-784-599/ 

[Olaf 3317]

10 Nov 2018.  258,211kms

1.  Fuel Filter.  

From this:

To this.

I think I should move that filter lower in the bracket.

I replaced the two hoses with new DAYCO EFI hose (BNT), as one was old-ish, and the other was original BMW manufactured 4/89.  I re-used the BMW clips, because new new shiny Tridon clips I bought had SAE bolt sizes.  Does not make sense to me, SAE bolt heads on my metric cars?  No way.  Filter is Hengst H80WK01 equivalent of BMW 13321268231

2.  Misfire.  

The misfire was getting worse.  I scored a set of used Bremi (OEM) HT leads, cleaned them up, burnished the contacts, metered them out.  Promptly left them at home!  Found one connection at the dizzy cap (Cyl 3) badly corroded and with resident moisture.  Cleaned cap, moisture shield, rotor, leads.  Reassembled, starts and idles beautifully.  

(yes, this is the 'before' picture).

I've purchased a new OEM Radiator (Thanks Abel Smith Radiators), Genuine BMW top & bottom hoses, clips, Thermostat, BMW coolant, and cooling fan clutch.  Next step, cool-o-rama & cambelt and clutch.

Edited November 11, 2018 by Olaf
photos, formatting. DAYCO, not Gates hose.

[Olaf 3317]

10/11 Nov 2018.  258,252kms

1.  Clutch kit (Luk), RMS, gearbox input and output seal (Elring)

2. Timing Belt Kit (Gates)

3. Radiator (?OEM), top and bottom hoses (Genuine), thermostat (Vermet), fan coupling (Meisterstats), Coolant (Genuine).

 

Edited December 10, 2018 by Olaf

[Olaf 3317]

9 Dec 2018.  258,375kms

1.  Replaced Coil  

It's one of those 'I had room in the box' things.  I've always found replacing coils at 10 years old, worthwhile.  Slightly smoother running, generally.  This one was nearly 30 years old.  Original Bosch (Germany), and I sourced a Bosch (now made in Brazil).

From this...

 

To this:

I must re-seat the rubber hood.  I gave it a clean-out with WD40 and a rag.

Edited December 9, 2018 by Olaf
images

[hotwire 352]

Those ignition coils very rarely fail, even at age. Ironically they are usually the first thing to get blamed for poor running.

But - the new one is shiny ?

 

[Young Thrash Driver 1020]

Woohoo, isn't it fun pulling the trigger on the parts cannon! Nice going

[Olaf 3317]

21 hours ago, hotwire said:

Those ignition coils very rarely fail, even at age. Ironically they are usually the first thing to get blamed for poor running.

But - the new one is shiny ?

 

agree - they never actually fail!  Though whenever I've replaced one (I did a couple of Bosch GT40's back in the late 80's/early 90's on japanese cars, and more recently on my e30 325i, volvo etc), it always seems a little smoother in the range.

21 hours ago, Young Thrash Driver said:

Woohoo, isn't it fun pulling the trigger on the parts cannon! Nice going

Thanks!  And, oh, since you mention it, there's more where that came from.  ?   

I've been putting together the plan for a "316 iS".  Working on the reliability and safety, then handling and stopping, there's lots of parts prep.  Some unplanned health issues have slowed me down over the last 5 weeks.

Preparing for suspension.  Koni Yellows on their way from ebay.  Going to match with H&R Sportsprings 29663-1 (-35 + -35mm for 4cyl iS).   I've always wanted to do Koni Yellows on one of my cars, and these came up at a reasonable price (used).  I remember what @3pedals said last year on my e60 thread, an excellent description here, decided this is the time to have a crack with Koni Yellow.  The Eibachs sound a little soft, so H&R it is.  I'm more concerned about handling than "lows".

New sump gasket ready to go in.  Engine and Gearbox mounts.  Diff gasket and bushing.  Shifter bushings, and maybe a short-shifter.  New fluids for the diff and gearbox.

Rear:  Meyle Subframe Mounts, Lemforder Trailing Arm Bushing Set, Meyle HD Shock Mounts.  Koni 80-2522 (general e30 spec, not absolutely perfect for the 318iS, though possibly rebuild as 80-2641 in future if necessary?)   Considering conversion to rear disks, a-la 318iS.

Front:  Sachs strut mounts, BMW Bump Stops, Koni 8641-1210 Sport.  new ARB bushes, Meyle HD ARB end links, new wheel bearings.  Need to figure out if I have 51mm housings, or need to get them to build with the konis and new parts.

LCA and bushes, rack ends seem okay for the mo, so they can wait.   I've bought 14" baskets, getting some new rubber.  Need to get the rims down from Napier... anyone coming down soon?

Some time in the new year it should all start to come together.  There are other maintenance items to take care of too.

In summary:  it's not to be a race car, just a healthy street car that's fun to drive, reliable, teach my kids to drive in, and I may have a go at the Surgery Sprint Series with it next year.  I'm not expecting to be particularly competitve, as I'd be a total track novice and it's just a 1.6l M40.  But hey, participation and fun, I think I'll have the ingredients for low-budget entry-level track time.

PS:  I think an M42 conversion will be on the cards, just not until everything else is sorted.

Edited December 10, 2018 by Olaf
P.S.

[Olaf 3317]

12 Dec 2018.  258,426kms

1.  Gearbox Oil 

Drained and filled gearbox oil, with thanks and kudos to @Barryn.  This being on light duties is frustrating!  Gearbox oil level was low (leaks, now resolved).  About 1.5 litres of Messers Penrite ProGear full synthetic.  Now shifting more sweetly.

2.  Tyres

While we had it in the air, we had a look at the tyres.  No way those rears are passing a WoF (low tread on left, cracks, and age of both rears) - and the fronts are over ten years old - so it's now parked until they're sorted next week.

[Olaf 3317]

anticippppppppppp-ation ?

four black circles, this afternoon.

Photocredit: Jon Mechaniker

Edited December 14, 2018 by Olaf
formattin'

[Olaf 3317]

On 12/13/2018 at 12:33 AM, Olaf said:

1.  Gearbox Oil 

Drained and filled gearbox oil, with thanks and kudos to @Barryn.  This being on light duties is frustrating!  Gearbox oil level was low (leaks, now resolved).  About 1.5 litres of Messers Penrite ProGear full synthetic.  Now shifting more sweetly.

We all know gearbox oil is rather whiffy, or pungent.  Now we know why...

https://youtu.be/b6SN7N7sgks

[Olaf 3317]

18 Dec 2018.  258,444kms

1.  New Black Circles

4 new Hankook K415 in 195/65R14 fitted, balanced, aligned.

2.  WoF

Passed her WoF.

Wahoo!  With thanks to Jon & Keren at Auto38.

Next, in Jan it's time for me to do the lock barrel repair kit (over the hols); and the get subframe mounts, trailing arm mounts, diff bush and diff oil done at Auto38.

Anyone have a pair of 51mm front strut housings in good nick?

Edited December 20, 2018 by Olaf
structure

[Olaf 3317]

 

Update.  

I've washed and waxed her, and been driving her.   Whipped this photo out at sunset a few days back.  I still haven't done my lock-barrel replacement; xmas family committments and grass in my backyard approaching 'elephant' status, have taken my focus, along with recommissioning my BBQ.

Black Circles and Rear End

The tyres are coming right, mould-release agents wearing away with some use in the wet; loads more grip than the previous 8-10 year old tyres.  No surprises there.   The disturbing things are:

• little 195s being a little bulgy on 5J5 steelies, natural lateral movement of car on rim with sidewall movement.
• the whole rear end being a bit squirrely with knackered diff bush, and old crusty rear subframe mounts, trailing arm bushes, and no ARB!
• the extra grip from fresh, modern rubber, fully reveals how 'off' the rear end currently is.

...though as you'd expect, "I have a plan" for the rear.

• Rear ARB (13.5mm) with new ARB bushes (BMW), rear subframe mounts (Meyle HD), trailing arm bushes (Lemforder) will go in this week.  14.5mm ARB  is preferred (iS spec), but I just don't have the spare bread.
• My Koni Yellows (40k kms old) have arrived, so I need to do a little cosmetic remediation on those.  I have Meyle HD rear shock mounts (3003359102/HD) to match them.  They can go in soon with the existing springs, until I make the springing decision. 

This should tighten things up.  

Wheels

Then there's wheels.  I need to get the 14" basket weave/cross spoke/style 5 wheels from Napier, so I can give them a cosmetic refresh, and get them onto the car with the new tyres. 6J5 rims should hold those sidewalls more firmly!  I've ordered a BBS spanner for the centre caps, and picked up some NOS puzzle nuts to help keep them secured to the car.  Now I need to think about how far I go with wheel refinishing.  The cursory "plastidip'; the home refinish with JB Weld and Aerosol; or the Wheel Magician or Wheel Specialist full refinish?  And then there's colour.  I fancy bubblegum (like you see in the carwash)... satin black or granitsilber is more likely.  I like nogarosilber though I fear not contrasty enough with lachsilber.  What are your thoughts?

Sie sind verrückt nusse!  Or at least bolts.

Shifter

Yes, there's a silent 'f' in there!  I'd not bought enough of the parts to properly sort the shifter.  My scottish heritage came to the fore; I bought a shifter bearing (Rein), though missed out other parts... then picked up Garagistic Delrin bushes for the front of the shift rod, and a Poly bush for the rear.  Then I read more about the job on e30-zone, and talked to a mate about the short-shifter options.  I pondered, puzzled, and prevaricated.  Yesterday evening I sat down old-school style with printed material, pens and a couple of highlighters, and figured out what I was doing.  In short, a new Z3 1.9 shift lever, and some more of the wear items sorted.  (yellow-green = already have, pink = ordered, red=not bothering).

Olaf's shifter parts diagram, yesterday.

Front End

Nothing like sorting out your rear end, to reveal shortcomings of the front end!  I've sourced a 20mm front ARB, to go with the new bushes (Rein) and mounting hardware (BMW), and endlinks (Meyle HD).  My Koni Yellows (8641-1210 Sport) - 318iS spec - arrived recently (used).  I've ordered a bunch of parts to facilitate a build of new struts... bump stops (Rein), Strut bearings (Sachs), nuts, dust washers, coil spring shims... I already had one new SKF wheel bearing and a pair of nuts, dust shields and caps, and have ordered another SKF bearing.  Shortly, I'll have everything I need to build the new front struts, except for:

• Springs (I need to decide on springs).  H&R Sport Springs looking likely.  A little lower, a little stiffer.
• 51mm Strut Housings.  Yes, I need a pair of 51mm housings.  Help!  I'm basically going to strip and repaint whatever I get, don't care about the strut inserts themselves, bearings, or brake rotors.  As long as the housings are sound. 

So having done a bunch of shopping, I need to paint that newly acquired front ARB, with my favoured flap-disk, rust kill, etch prime, and gloss black Rustoleum paint; do the door lock barrel repair, and get the rear end sorted.  

More updates as they come to hand.  Thanks for reading.

And: please, point me in the direction of 51mm front strut housings!

Olaf

[Olaf 3317]

Busy few days.  She's now in for the rear subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings, rear ARB install.  Here's a rather unflattering image of her up on the rack at Auto38 with her arse-end out, @qube

e30 on the rack.  sounds positively medieval (above)

ARB Prep

My previous paintjob on the rear ARB hadn't held up so well.  I guess lack of patience in the prep may have had something to do with it; the Rustoleum all-in-one wasn't sticking everywhere.  Ahead of Monday's install work, I stripped it back yesterday afternoon with the flap disk on grinder, and sanded with random orbital (both 120 grit).  I used a tack-rag (with turps), then gave it a coat of etch primer and waited an hour, before two coats of Rustoluem 50 mins apart (re-coat within 1 hour, or after 48hrs).

I touched up the other end of the rear ARB this morning with Rustoleum (above)

I also stripped back 20mm front ARB to bare metal with the flap disk, and gave it a coat of rust converter.  There's a little minor pitting around the rubber bushing mounts, so I was being cautious.  CRC aren't very clear on how long one should wait before painting; I found 'leave overnight' in one of their videos.  So I did just that.

This morning it's all about "waiting for paint to dry"; I've etch-primed the front bar, ahead of painting it with Rustoleum.

an ARB, in etch, this morning (above)

And here's the usual suspects... (below)

 

This arvo I will be rebuilding the door lock (lock cylinder repair kit).  Woohoo!

Edited January 12, 2019 by Olaf