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3pedals last won the day on September 12

3pedals had the most liked content!

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About 3pedals

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  • Birthday 01/28/1877

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  1. Most versatile Van I ever had and the caddy is a modern day equivalent
  2. If it has done some reasonable trips would be okay on an M47 or a B47 N47 I'd pass. Big city traffic and the high associated operating temperatures are real killers. Plus the DPF is most likely clogged along with the EGR and manifold- have a look for the post on the manifold on my X3 - to see what I mean . Keep that in mind also if you are not one who gets out for a decent road trip every few weeks or couple of months.
  3. P.S to the O.P if you really want a manual - buy one
  4. Driving in traffic is torture - really 10 to 30kmh is torture - no dynamic risk assessment no forward scanning just relax and listen to the tunes ? Maybe you should take public transport if you can't cope with the easiest driving on the planet, and all of that clutch shudder - probably due to worn out dual mass flywheel from inept driving And yes that start stop on the motorway really does take its toll on the clutch - 283,000 km on the clock much of it in auckland traffic and original clutch still good for another 50,000km In terms of gearbox servicing - fluids and filters should be done on operating hours , not distance travelled. 1,000 hrs and 1500 km a year in a Tokyo traffic jam is far more damaging than 500 hours a year and 10,000 k in Auckland traffic. Divide service intervals by 5 if you leave your car in drive when stopped for extended periods. I do the manual every 50,000 km - I'd do an Auto every 25,000 if I owned one ( I do shift out of drive every time I stop).
  5. None of the cars being discussed here are "sports cars' nor is the OP looking 'race car / race car driver advice' so really none of the commentary using those contexts is relevant. Auto drivers commenting on the benefits of auto over manuals is a bit like Ford guys rubbishing Holdens - youv'e made your choice. How are manuals better in traffic / slow crawl - easy: you can put them in neutral and put the hand brake on, coast if there is a slight decline and then snick it into gear when you need to do it all the time on on ramps and sections of the motorway - try that in some of the late model autos, you can only put them into gear when you are stationary because of those anti dumb driver interlocks -- so what do most auto drivers do: exactly what the owners manual says not to do: leave it in drive and sit on the brake pedal for extended periods of time generating sh*t loads of heat , wasting fuel and cooking the gearbox.
  6. I'd go for a NZ new in Manual, I commute every day in Auckland traffic rush hour into the CBD , have 3 manuals and an auto , the manuals win hands down every time in all conditions: They tow better, are easier to maintain, more fuel efficent cheaper to service are lighter , less likely to have beeen abused and last longer for starters -- be wary of the N47 diesels even after cam chain replacements.
  7. Pit stop over-rate themselves - they buy cheap sh*t tube and mufflers from Autobend and Chase , add 100% or more and they have no imagination or engineering knowledge sample of two direct experiences - both sh*t - 1) New pipe on a Prado - got smacked on every reasonable bump, wouldn't fix because they couldn't buy the right bend. 2) New pipe on Peugeot - droned like sh*t and fell off after 2 weeks - basic engineering fail - supposedly done by their top guy. Note Autobend do a "good stuff' range as well but Pit stop don't generally use it. must be some one down that end of the countyr that does a decent job ?
  8. Decent equal length correctly sized headers and a complete matched exhaust system is definitely the best performance solution however if you don't want to do that but you do have to replace the most bar the headers then upsizing the pipes to the engine capacity is a good option. Both the M3 3 litre and the 3.2 run a twin 63mm system front to back , you are at 3.5 litres but probably only going to just north of 5 grand RPM so probably moving the same amount of air as the 3 litre. I have a full 3.2 system under my 328 and this is definitely NOT too big - I do have the fulll M3 headers as well which helps Another comparison is my 1800cc Peugeot had its exhaust demolished by a numpty tyre guy - they replaced it and we shared the cost because I went for a larger 57mm pipe over the stock 43mm pipe the down pipe is 63 mm so this was a reasonable fit. It is not as lively as it would be with full headers but from 4,500 RPM it pulls a lot better revs freer generally and runs further in 3rd 4th &5th - half the capacity of yours and one 57mm pipe - would have gone 63 with headers. So recommendation: at least two 63mm pipes maybe 67 put mufflers etc in the original places and it should be fine
  9. pretty pissy pipes in stock form - be just as easy and similar cost to put some decent pipes under it without it being any louder.
  10. I'm qualified to fix hair dryers, toasters and a couple of other things - that might make it into the next generation fof BMW's ?
  11. The E36 M3 snout does that as well, I enlarged that when I made the carbon replacement , the biggest gain in flow (and noise) came from the main section though . The E36 brake duct has the cutout location embossed on the duct.
  12. But wait there's more along with those steak knives and a free distributor according to TIS the official BMW technical site I also get Dual Vanos and DISA !!! Awesome !!! Make that two boxes of pens Martin and multi colours
  13. Sam, you can see how easy it is to get warm air into the intake - that big gap to the left by the guard will be an easy source. I've never been convinced by these so called cold air intakes that reside in the engine bay , and what I don't like about the E46 std snout is it sits above the radiator which will be warmer than where the E36 sucks from . You should be able to make some reasonable improvements to the stock intake to get more flow and some noise.
  14. What the official BMW / TIS site says for my car when I put my chassis number in - I'm having trouble finding the distributor in my M52 powered 328 Think I'll believe what I can see and measure?
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