Cement 871 Report post Posted February 23, 2021 Got the engine leveled out setup a reference 'grid' with the laser to take a bunch of measurements needed to model up the new drysump pan. Was hoping to keep it using a wet sump but expert advice determined there is little room to make something bulletproof. Thats about it lately ... will be many hours on the computer next to model the pan and hopefully get to a workable and easily manufactured solution. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted March 9, 2021 Making slow progress lately but managed to replace the driveshaft support bearing and started adding the clutch pedal to the pedal box ready to go back into the car once the clutch hard line is magic'd into place. The new M3 engine and trans mounts arrived also so I can start to fabricate up some mounts. Or I can use the timber mock up, just need some PVA ? The real 50x5 SHS steel should be here soon. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted March 10, 2021 With some tips from another thread I managed to get the clutch hard line installed in the cabin without taking the dash off and the pedals are now in place and looking great. I made up a wire template of the line before straightening it out enough to get it trough the factory conduit. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted March 14, 2021 Had to take the pedal box out again along with the brake booster to install the rubber firewall grommet properly for the clutch low / no pressure line. Glad to have that part of the job ticked off !! Got the engine mounts prepared and tacked up which is another milestone kinda job ... will talk with the certifier tomorrow to see if they are happy for me to fully weld them or would rather I get them done by somebody else. Next up I can remove the temporary frame from the subframe and engine so I can complete the required measurements for the new oil pan. Progress !! 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted March 19, 2021 Certifier was ok with me welding the mounts so they are finished now, happy with how they turned out. Now I can get to the bottom of the engine again I'm plotting out where the oil returns are to the sump so I can model them into the new dry sump pan. 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted April 6, 2021 (edited) A long time between updates, but the wheels have been turning slowly in the background with a lot of time spent designing the new dry sump oil pan and thinking things through now that the engine is mounted in the car on its proper engine mounts. Will need to get the trans mount sorted next but its going to be a funky design to allow the left side headers to have maximum clearance under the car. Only other bits completed are installation of the electronic throttle pedal instead of stock cable one which included: confirming the BMW throttle pedal is 'sensor compatible' with the Nissan ECU (yay !!!) and removing the auto pedal kickdown cam thingy. Also started laying out some fuel system bits which have been sitting in a box for ages as I need to convert the VQ to a return style system which basically involves a '4 way tap' fitting replacing the factory damper then installing an external regulator which will maintain set pressure and drain excess back to the tank. Oil pan is looking really good ... just have to confirm the exact hole locations, add in an additional scavenge port which I was not going to use originally and confirm some clearances on the car then can submit to have manufactured via an amazing service from https://www.3dhubs.com So I got a used four stage dry sump pump (with oil / air seperator) also which will need to be changed from a left to right hand mount. There is quite a bit of work and expense in getting the oiling system under control which is a bummer but should ultimately be a really good solution. May need to sell a kidney once I organise fittings, hoses, reservoir, breather, vacuum regulator etc etc etc A couple of snaps checking the dry sump design for clearance around the crank / rods as well as externally between the steering rack and subframe etc. Edited April 6, 2021 by Cement 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted April 6, 2021 I forgot to add another discovery ... the front sway bar won't fit so will have to get something custom made, at some stage 😕 Bummer. Also been looking at gauges which I'll want to have in place for initial start and testing. I figure I can walk a line between JDM bling and Euro class but trying to keep it as low profile inside as possible so might end up going with Prosports Supreme series with three in the console and two on the column. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted April 6, 2021 That dry sump setup is going to be a nice bit of kit. Puts my homemade one to shame. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted April 7, 2021 11 hours ago, zero said: That dry sump setup is going to be a nice bit of kit. Puts my homemade one to shame. Hopefully it will be nice ... really I just wish I didn't have to dry sump it at all but needs must. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted April 7, 2021 Dry sump comes with its advantages too. More power, better cooling etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 452 Report post Posted April 9, 2021 (edited) What a build!!😍🤓. Awesome work there man. Smooth engine. Not a fan of any Japo...but respect their refinements & strenghts with power figures. Admire your precise way brru. Keep it up. Let me know if you need anything. You fitted a regulator valve with the fuel pump...? Edited April 9, 2021 by LsBeema Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted April 10, 2021 11 hours ago, LsBeema said: What a build!!😍🤓. Awesome work there man. Smooth engine. Not a fan of any Japo...but respect their refinements & strenghts with power figures. Admire your precise way brru. Keep it up. Let me know if you need anything. You fitted a regulator valve with the fuel pump...? Cheers, trying to get anything I have to deal with tidied up and refreshed on the way through ... turns out thats basically everything 🤣 Funny you mention the fuel pump as just today I got the new AEM filter installed and worked out where I will run the new fuel lines (Gates Barricade). This included mounting the fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay as I am converting the VQ to run a return system as per the BMW and not returnless like the Nissan. Got some colour matched paint on the inside of the boot where I've patched up the access holes for the top side reinforcing. Slowly moving towards getting the interior back in !! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted April 14, 2021 Big parts delivery days this week !!! Stoked to get this lot as it unblocks the next few phases of work Highlights are the Serial Nine shifter relocation kit, the beefy slip yoke (can get the drive shaft finished) and ATI damper so I can work on mounting up the dry sump pump. Other items are for fixing a common issue on the VQ (oil gallery gasket failure), completing the fuel pump wiring and doing general service pieces while the front cover is off. Front cover removed from the engine to complete the oil gallery gasket repairs, general service of items (water pump, gaskets, o-rings, thermostat etc). This is also the time to look at the internal oil pump and work out what needs to happen to it for conversion to the dry sump pump. Had some expert input from a friend of mine on the oil pan design and have reworked it significantly to move the three scavenge ports to the right side of the motor below an oil scraper plate. Only one close fitment to validate in the car (pressure port near steering rack) then can do final checks and get it made !! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted April 20, 2021 Completed the tear down and replacement of the required items. Removal of internal oil pump looks to be incredibly easy and essentially just leaving it out !! Lucky. There was a damaged gasket under one of the notorious VQ oil galleries, so definitely a good decision to do this work now !! Also two of the original screws were loose, so again great to fix while its all opened up. Gave the front cover a nice acid clean and water blast so it looks spanky now. Final re-assembly still to come then can validate the last items before having the oil pan manufactured. 5 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted April 22, 2021 What cleaner did you use on the cover? It looks really good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted April 22, 2021 1 hour ago, zero said: What cleaner did you use on the cover? It looks really good Ya it came up pretty well !! I used Septone Ali Brite from Super Cheap with water blasting before and after application... its acid based so need to be a little careful what it goes on. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/septone-septone-ali-brite-aluminium-cleaner-1-litre/1747.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted May 3, 2021 Some odd jobs taking place lately: Hit the button to get the oil pan manufactured, ETA 4 weeks Completed the wiring under the back seat, just need to mount and wire the fuel pump relay in the boot Cleaned the unfortunate mold off the back seat from being under the house 😕 Installed the new ATI super damper Next up I'll be concentrating on getting all of the fuel wiring done plus spraying cavity wax into all the locations welded so I can start reinstalling the back seats / boot interior fully !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted May 7, 2021 Fuel pump wiring now complete, pretty happy with how it turned out. Went for a 22A solid state relay for reliability and 12 gauge wire for the hot side to mate up with the 20A fuse. Finally got to the cavity wax application in the areas that were opened up and ground / welded etc. Got the rear interior pretty much all back in and its looking great ... can't quite finish as I want to leave the rear bumper off for now while more work happens some time down the track (exhaust mainly). Had an Amazon voucher from work so turned that into a nice set of crimping tools (Deutsch and others for when attention turns to the wiring department) and Torx Plus bits so I can assemble the ATI super damper finally (yea, Torx Plus is a thing ... who knew !!). Also got my centre console triple gauge mount all the way from Lithuania !! 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted May 10, 2021 Mounted up the Serial Nine CD999 shifter relocation kit and its going to work out pretty good ... just need to en-biggen the hole slightly for the main boss to stick through. This kit has an adapter for the shifter shaft so you can position it fore or aft of the pin shown in the image. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted May 15, 2021 Got the required imperial hardware needed to get the dry sump pump apart today ... all looks to be in good order. The new housing to switch to a left side mount is almost on the way from the states along with a new seal / bearing kit. Pretty impressed with the engineering and techniques used to make the pump !! Created the required clearance for the shifter relocation ... just needs a couple small tweaks and some epoxy primer which can wait until the engine is removed. That shaft will need to be cut down some what 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted May 25, 2021 No posts for a little while as have just been chipping away in the background and making plans for things needed to mount the engine for the (hopefully) final time ... heater lines, wire routing, sealing the cabin blower air intake etc. I did pull the engine again and have fitted the shifter relocation kit finally so I can make car noises and change gears At the same time I shortened the dust cap so the Spicer 1350 slip yoke can fit without fouling. Onto the VERY exciting developments this week ... received the dry sump housing and rebuild kit needed to change mounting from right to left. On the same day the Sikky Manufacturing slim steering linkage arrived. Dry sump is fully stripped and now ready to reassemble with the new housing. By far the most exciting thing to happen was the arrival of the dry sump oil pan which I designed and had made via https://hubs.com ... looks FANTASTIC, so stoked. Lets hope it fits up alright Will need to finalise the design of the oil scraper plate before it can be mounted up permanently. 9 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borigthedwarf 1 Report post Posted June 11, 2021 I am eagerly awaiting the next update; where that chunder at? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted June 12, 2021 (edited) We have heard the people, and we have listened ... behold !!! The next eagerly anticipated update Worked up a prototype MDF dry sump mount after shooting some beams again to work out the relative hole positions. While waiting for some laser cutting (header flanges and dry sump oil scraper) I got in and cleaned the front wheel wells and got a coat of black 2k paint on them. Also cleaned and coated the guard liners with trim black. Got the Sikky Manufacturing slim steering linkage in place which should make life easier when it comes time to make the headers. Got the laser cut oil scraper installed and checked for interference before making up the viton o-ring seal, much easier than I thought it would be ... the o-ring cord stayed put without any vasoline or other goo. I lost the use of my borrowed torque wrench so had to cast the mind back to my physics classes and improvise with a fish scale and 3/8" power bar I think its more accurate to be fair !! After my careful calibration check of the scales of course. Received the Holden Astra electric power steering pump finally so will give it a clean at some point soon and put it aside for a few months. Milestone event !!! Oil pan installed for good with my ghetto torque wrench to boot. Now to shorten the ATI drive mandrel for the dry sump pulley, managed to chop off all of the 3/8" threaded hole also so I could convert to M10. The drop saw got the job done pretty well ... in hind sight i should have done it differently to make things a little less sketchy process wise. Good result with the mandrel chopped down to the right length and tapped. That brings us up to current with the pump fitted using the mk1 pump mount ... could probably be used for first start but I'll make up something better shortly. Great that the belt length works out, total stroke of luck !! Might still look to install a tensioner. Also got some cooling system gaskets so have reinstalled the rear water outlet casting and will be blanking off a few bits shortly, nothing too sexy to report there. Hopefully tomorrow will get the flywheel, clutch and trans on so we're ready to go back into the car for hopefully the final time !! Just waiting on the heater box right angle fittings. Edited June 12, 2021 by Cement 5 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted June 25, 2021 Some really fun work lately with basic assembly of some major pieces to get things looking like a car again. Installed the flywheel and clutch, funnily enough these were one of the first things purchased almost a year ago now !! Pulled the front struts apart to give everything a good clean and install new bump stops / dust boots. Unfortunately the left side is completely rooted but will get the car mobile for the time being, will not go through certification and WOF however so will likely have to do something suspension wise later on. Lower control arms with new Powerflex bushes installed, 330 knuckles and guard liners cleaned / painted along with the wheel wells. Just a fun shot of the under body with new oil pan installed. The next and probably most involved part of the build has slowly begun ... making the headers !! Designed up the flanges and had them laser cut however will probably change approach here and go with completely individual tubes / mini flanges to allow them to be 'threaded' into position into the car and fixed into a slip joint collector ... or something Got some pool vacuum hose I will be using to mock things up roughly, will probably get a bunch of profiles laser cut at the proposed mandrel bend radius to support the pool hose in place then fill with some sort of expanding rigid foam. Looking pretty cool now, side skirts back on ... FINALLY installed the front EBC rotors !!! Could not help myself mocking up the interior a little bit and I'm loving the low key look it should have !! 7 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cement 871 Report post Posted July 3, 2021 So the blue pool vacuum hose turned out to be more useful as a play thing for the kids than to model up my new headers, just not flexible enough when you actually get it in place etc. All this time I had been trying to model the headers nicely at low cost but it seems those desires are mutually exclusive !! What I really wanted to use originally was the modelling kits from Ice Engine Works (https://www.icengineworks.com/) but they are just so dang expensive for a one off 😕 Take a look at their site if you have no idea what I'm babbling about and its instantly visible what an awesome approach and system this is where you want to know exactly how your headers will be built, the length and clearances etc. I figured I could design and 3D print my own version along the same concept and which match the locally available mandrel bend radius's (the US based ice kit centre line radius bends are not available here). With the price of 3D printers now it will be way cheaper, hopefully a good result and can also then use it for prototyping other items and making odd widgets as needed Onto some pics of where things are at ... made a bunch of prototypes and (semi) perfected some settings that give a nice result. This is how they will clip together, will be various length straight sections along with bend segments (doing 30 degree and 80mm CLR at the mo). The final prototype which seems to work pretty well and looks fairly good to boot !! Printer is hard at work while I sleep making 7 more bends ... hoping it does not look like a spaghetti blob monster when I wake up 3 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
