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Found 6 results

  1. After being out of the car scene for some time, I've decided to throw my hat back in the ring and create something fun to build and ultimately fun to drive. A user friendly budget would be a bonus but we'll see how that one pans out !! This will just be a fun street car so the aim is to have a mix of comfort, performance and looks. The car: A NZ new 2000 BMW 318Ci with 4 speed auto. Quite tidy generally with only a handful of the expected BMW "things that don't work no more" to resolve at a later date. Being under powered will hopefully mean no cracking around the subframe and minimal hard driving time etc on the body. The engine: A Nissan VQ37VHR from a 2009 Skyline 370GT automatic. 125k on it give or take so hopefully plenty of life left in it. Factory spec at 243kW which should be a solid upgrade over the cars stock 77 !! No plans for anything engine wise at the moment, must get mobile and legal first. Progress so far: The car is sitting with front end off, engine and driveline are out, rear interior and fuel tank etc removed. Have cleaned the underside to a reasonable standard and have welded in the CMP RACP reinforcement kit. Have cleaned and painted the 330 rear end components ready for reinstallation along with installing Powerflex bushes in most locations. Have created a rig to fire up and run the VQ37 on the ground which was a success and a lot of fun ... had the Nissan anti-theft (NATS) removed via UpRev and an ARC license installed at the same time. This was to validate that I can run the motor prior to install and working out the wiring later on when its more difficult. You can check the video here: Next Steps: REALLY keen to get the rear end back together so something is finished !! Will need to complete the welding in of the RACP to frame rails in the boot before the LVV certifier comes to check out my work. Once that's done I can get ready to stitch weld some other trouble areas then underseal and paint it all real pretty before installing the backend. Once the back end is together and looking slick I can finally turn attention to the pointy end and see if the engine is going to play nice. There will be a lot of work involved and a few options to investigate ... current thinking is it will be a custom oil pan and cross member at least. Steering rack may also be an issue. Some Pics To This Point:
  2. Just got my M54b30 powered e28 on the road, couple of small bits left. One of which is the tachometer. I just need to connect the m54 to e28 harness engine speed wire to Pin 1 of c104, according to instructions. Rhd car, where is c104.. Lot of wiring going on in my glove box!
  3. Hey everyone! Been lurking in the shadows looking at the wealth of information here! Only now deciding to actually make an account. Got a 318i vert factory manual about a year ago and looking to give it a good refresh and pretty soon swap in a m54b25 out of a donor car (lapsed rego 2002 325i) into it! Just done a front bushing refresh (tie rods, controll arms, swaybar end links), cooling system replacement and also just finished off an airbag light diagnosis, a deep dive that was. Stoked to be a part of the community, and starting to really love these cars. Would also love an E39 540 wagon, my absolute dream. Photos of my very and the donor car. P.s.any guidance for the engine swap would be welcomed
  4. Hi guys, I am looking at replacing my 525i high mileage N52b25 engine which suffers from the dredded lifter clatter and excessive oil consumption to a N52b30. From what I can see both the 525 and 530 share the same ZF6HP transmission, radiator + other ancillarys and are practically 1/1 identical apart from displacement. My question is apart from swapping over and possibly coding the b30 DME and CAS module - is there anything else members would think is a stumbling block? Thanks in advance Cheers!
  5. Basically its a fuel - fuel rail - injector malfunction that is temperamental. So done me engine swap, the car runs sweet no issues then im getting this... Took the injectors out and they don't seem to be pulsing when this issues going on. I got this weird blow back through the intake when I tried to start it today. Also the fuel pump kept on whirring like it wasn't getting any fuel but had plenty in tank. Sometimes it would whirr constantly and other times I turned the key on it would prime itself then stop like normal. On other random occurrences when turning the key on the injectors would squirt suddenly as soon as the key turned on... Im guessing thats what the blow back was, as the valves would be shut and the pressure from the injectors had no where to go but vent back through the air filter. I thought at first it could be fuel pump relay sticking but then why would the injectors not be pulsing? Im guessing its a bad connection some where and ive heard that you shouldn't solder the wires on theses, is that true? as I have soldered just about every splice. Regards
  6. Been able to source a donor car for an engine swap however i'm finding it difficult to find answers regarding the EWS 2 system that's in my 97' 318is If the new DME with the m50 (1992) never had EWS and my chassis has EWS 2, will the wiring modification will be needed as the DME never had the feature in the first place? A lot of EWS bypass guides are showing EWS 2 Chassis with EWS 1 motor's etc but nothing about having no EWS at all.
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