nickbawt 0 Report post Posted August 12, 2010 Yeah, 30Amp, tried a few different brands to make sure it wasnt a cheapie too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted August 12, 2010 wow, cooking a 30a fuse. something def wrong there, perhaps a short to ground somewhere along the line? does the demister itself still function? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
APT 195 Report post Posted August 12, 2010 (edited) M20B25 idles perfectly 700-800rpm when cold but when the temp rises it idles at 1500rpm, Any ideas on what could cause this ? Checked vacuum leaks, cleaned AFM and ICV used a different AFM and ICV still the same. Edited August 12, 2010 by APT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nickbawt 0 Report post Posted August 12, 2010 wow, cooking a 30a fuse. something def wrong there, perhaps a short to ground somewhere along the line? does the demister itself still function? Yeah I thought so too. I doesnt blow the flue element, only melts the plastic housing.. though I dont think thats much better . Demister function still works perfectly fine.. Could anyone suggest anywhere to get it looked at? Just strange how its happened within the last couple of weeks.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 12, 2010 Dealer or a good electrician...plenty over the shore... I dont know whoes really good over there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oscar90 0 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 E30 trailing arm bolts, do they have washers? I think ive lost mine but then decided I wasnt sure if I had any originally, but im sure theyd need some lol someone fill me in please Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 E30 trailing arm bolts, do they have washers? I think ive lost mine but then decided I wasnt sure if I had any originally, but im sure theyd need some lol someone fill me in please No Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjdavis 0 Report post Posted August 17, 2010 Need to replace a front suspension castor bush to get a wof, have been quoted $405 and $370 dollars to supply and fit. Is this reasonable? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 18, 2010 Need to replace a front suspension castor bush to get a wof, have been quoted $405 and $370 dollars to supply and fit. Is this reasonable? $350 including to supply & fit here.... you have to do both. They are supplied in pairs. My price is to do both. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjdavis 0 Report post Posted August 18, 2010 $350 including to supply & fit here.... you have to do both. They are supplied in pairs. My price is to do both. Thanks Glenn, I would get you guys to do it but your a bit far away as I live on the Shore and work in Newmarket. I think I will get you to do my next service if I can organise to borrow a car for the day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted August 19, 2010 E30 Diff Carrier bolts *the four at the top* I've cracked one... I can't get my spanner on any of the others... how did everyone else do it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E36ShoppingTrolley 7 Report post Posted August 24, 2010 Is the 3:64 diff for and e30 an LSD? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted August 24, 2010 ^depends, just about all ratios can be either open or lsd, easiest way to tell is to try and spin the 2 ouput shafts opp ways, it should lock up if its an lsd. ^^ with a spanner and some jake the muss actions going on. or people have drilled holes in the boot floor above the bolts and used a socket. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 24, 2010 Is the 3:64 diff for and e30 an LSD? If its LSD the tag on the diff will have an "S" stamped on it after the ratio Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 24, 2010 or people have drilled holes in the boot floor above the bolts and used a socket. Don't do that.... use a longer spanner and some grunt... they may have loctite on the threads Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted August 26, 2010 I ended up using two spanners, that gave a good angle to get it around. Cheers guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oscar90 0 Report post Posted August 26, 2010 (edited) ^^I just gritted my teeth and swore like a fisherman..still took forever haha So i have Mattzy's rebuilt LSD in with the solid mounts. abit noisier eh! anyway How long do I need to "Bed/wear" the diff in?? looking to Glenn or other Pro's for this one...it was an expensive Diff and it has brand new bearings, seals, and shims...I dont wanna Root it 'cause that'd be dumb Thanks Edited August 26, 2010 by HT. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 26, 2010 Just drive it scensibly for a 1000km....I hope you used full synthetic 75w90 LSD oil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oscar90 0 Report post Posted August 26, 2010 Thanks Glenn! Mattzy had some Redline Heavy shockproof put in it when rebuilt Fairly sure its 75w90. it's definitly LSD suitable, I remember spying it on the bottle I brought to top it up a little bit. (someone had it upside down for awhile so leaked out the breather) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 26, 2010 Mines a bit noisey as well with the solid mounts. It was dead quiet with the f**ked rubber mounts... I know it's all good. Kerry is getting some special little girls car bushes made up for me which might reduce the noise. Anyway... I've got the right sort of noise out the back and theres always the volume control on the sterio which gets better reception now with the Audi A3 aerial and amplifier in the roof. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docile 64 Report post Posted August 27, 2010 (edited) need to find the location of the oxygen sensors for my 95 e38 m60. hahaha cant find em is it way up closer to the manifold? need to remove the engine cover? been looking around the area of da cats but nada. only 2 sensors on my car i think.. doesnt help having no flashlight around Edited August 27, 2010 by Docile Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted August 27, 2010 (edited) In the exhaust manifold on the down pipe before the cats. More easily seen from underneath. Whats the problem ? Edited August 27, 2010 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted August 27, 2010 PFL E30 If a car needs to be jump started, does it still need a certain amount of juice in the battery for it to work? My car is still lighting up on the dash but won't turn over at all, though I did notice the battery symbol isn't lighting up either when I turn the key. Jump starting the car doesn't make any difference either, thoughts? Or is it Friday-afternoon-itis and I have missed something obvious? Cheers, Nath Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted August 27, 2010 I think if a battery is so far gone, you won't be able to jumpstart it.. I had a car like that. Try swapping batteries with the known good, just to see if it starts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted August 27, 2010 ^ Yeah I think this might be the case, it is a genuine one that still lights up green on the indicator, but it has been flat a few times lately. Will try that and see what happens Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites