deedub 134 Report post Posted May 15 21 minutes ago, Vass said: Some see it as an "upgrade", the logic being lower pressure = less strain on the plastic & rubber components in the cooling system = longer life for the cooling system components. The counter argument is that lower pressure = lower boiling point = higher chance of vapours in the system. Gases don't transfer heat nearly as efficiently as fluids, leading to localised hot spots or hot pockets in the engine, which obviously isn't good. This is interesting. Thanks for the explanation. 3 minutes ago, gjm said: As suggested, stick with original spec if possible. Yea I'm probably going to do some preventative maintenance on the cooling system while giving it a flush. I'll be ordering the OE cap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neal 568 Report post Posted May 15 (edited) 1 hour ago, deedub said: Just noticed that my coolant reservoir cap on my 98 E36 318is has a 1.4 bar cap. Checked real oem and it should be 2.0 bar. Trying to understand if there's a reason PO would intentionally replace with lower pressure cap. May have just been the best option available. Lower pressure could also be a result of the 90s e30 cap recall. There was concerns around pressure build up and scolding an unsuspecting owner.This one was for m20s and I remember being sent a new cap for my 84 323i https://bmwtechinfo.bmwgroup.com/sib_attachments/B170293.pdf and https://charm.li/BMW/1984/318i (E30) L4-1766cc 1.8L SOHC (M10)/Repair and Diagnosis/Technical Service Bulletins/All Technical Service Bulletins/Recall - Coolant System Overheating/ Edited May 15 by Neal 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DC3 47 Report post Posted May 16 On 2/21/2025 at 8:01 PM, Twistee said: Can anyone recommend an electroplater that does Gold Zinc Passivate? I have a pile of nuts, bolts, pipes etc that I would like to have re-plated. I've used Acme in the past with good results.https://acmeplating.co.nz/ 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deedub 134 Report post Posted May 19 On 5/15/2025 at 7:45 PM, deedub said: Just noticed that my coolant reservoir cap on my 98 E36 318is has a 1.4 bar cap. Checked real oem and it should be 2.0 bar. Trying to understand if there's a reason PO would intentionally replace with lower pressure cap. May have just been the best option available. Does anyone know if there are benefits to 1.4 over 2.0? Or if it even matters much? Some context around this after changing the cap and monitoring coolant level over the last few days. Before posting I noticed the coolant level in the expansion tank was dropping while monitoring it over a week. 1.4 bar cap looked in bad shape and one of the O rings looked to have shifted. After posting this I was able to get my hands on a new Meyle 2.0 bar cap locally. After swapping to the new cap there was an initial drop after the first drive. But coolant has remained at that level and has stabilised since. Did all the usual coolant leak checks with the old 1.4 cap. Nothing. Only thing that stood out was the condition of the cap. I'll keep monitoring but was wondering if it was an internal leak for a a bit. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toksis 3 Report post Posted May 29 I want to replace my valve cover gasket n46 ? Where can you buy erling here in nz? Or can i use permaseal? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3300 Report post Posted May 29 12 minutes ago, Toksis said: I want to replace my valve cover gasket n46 ? Where can you buy erling here in nz? Or can i use permaseal? Thanks A valve cover gasket set (there are two gaskets) isn't going to break the bank regardless of where it comes from. Try BMW? Bear in mind that there are two possible gasket sets - one has a 2-hole fitting centre gasket, the other has a 5-hole fitting centre gasket. They are not interchangeable. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deedub 134 Report post Posted May 30 This is the left corner light on my E36. Any tips for resealing it? Or is it toast and I should get a new one? Seems hard to track down genuine clear corner lights. But I guess I can just look at aftermarket options. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toksis 3 Report post Posted Sunday at 06:54 PM How you open this bolt easily rear right of the engine valve cover? I did open it but so takes like 80 percent of my time opening all the bolts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4138 Report post Posted Sunday at 08:50 PM (edited) 1 hour ago, Toksis said: How you open this bolt easily rear right of the engine valve cover? I did open it but so takes like 80 percent of my time opening all the bolts With lot's of extensions, elbows, and flex shafts... or remove engine. It's a royal PITA to get to some of them. Edited Sunday at 08:50 PM by M3AN 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toksis 3 Report post Posted Sunday at 09:43 PM @M3AN I really dont get the reason why bmw use that bolt other than making me harder to remove it. even a normal 10mm could not be use because of that protruding thingy on top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vass 1059 Report post Posted Sunday at 09:51 PM Haven't touched an N46 in an E90 but am tinkering on an N42 in an E46 which is pretty much the same engine. That rear right one is a bit fiddly to get to but still easy enough, not might be a bit more room to play around with on an E46 for whatever reason, I'm not sure. I found a regular 1/4 ratchet and deep wall 10mm worked just fine, up to the point it was loose enough to thread out by hand. At least on an E46, the protruding stud is for a small bracket on the vacuum line going to the brake booster to keep that in place, then another 8mm nut that goes over top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
