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///M

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About ///M

  • Rank
    1st Gear

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  • Name
    Kyle
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Car
    130i

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  1. Agree with @Allanw - the 1.4 TSI motors and gearboxes are absolute garbage!
  2. Having had 3 VW GTIs (2x Mk5 and 1x Mk6) over the past few years- I can shed some light on these cars. Both engines are great, very tunable and pretty reliable for the most part (though there are some things to watch out for). With that being said, I’ve never had an issue with either the FSI or TSI engines. The most common things to watch out for include: FSI -potentially high oil consumption (the culprit is usually the PCV system). Easy fix -Dodgy diverter valve. Many upgrade to the revised revision D diverter valve or aftermarket. Easy fix -Carbon build up. Consider walnut blasting the valves around 120,000km -Coil packs and spark plugs fail (tuned cars only). Upgrade to Audi R8 CoP and NGK plugs -Cam follower wear. Check cam follower every 2-3 years and replace when required. Easy fix -Still uses a cambelt. Replace as required (including ancillaries) -Stage 3 (i.e. turbo upgrade – k04 etc) needs an upgraded fuel pump TSI -Dodgy cam chain tensioner (early models up to 09/2012 build dates). Catastrophic engine failure if this goes bad. Not a cheap fix due to labour. -Coil packs and spark plugs fail (tuned cars only). Upgrade to Audi R8 CoP and NGK plugs -Carbon build up. Consider walnut blasting the valves around 120,000km There are other issues that I failed to list such as intake manifolds going bad, cracked intake pipes etc but these aren’t too common… The DSGs are another matter altogether. The Mk6 DSG is better programmed than the Mk5 (blip downshifts, a bit smoother etc) but both can be very temperamental if not serviced correctly. VW requires servicing every 60,000km. If there’s no record of this being done I’d walk away. Make sure you drive a few vehicles to get a feel for the transmission as some might have clutch wear (particularly the imports sitting in Tokyo traffic). If you get a good one- you’ll be sorted as long as you take care of it. They’re great gearboxes overall just a bit hit or miss; shopping around and test drives are key… Finally, 04-08 Mk5 GTIs have hydraulic steering which I prefer over the slightly numb electric racks of the later models. With all that being said, they’re pretty solid cars and I enjoyed my ownership with them. If you have any other questions just ask- happy to help
  3. I was considering this. What stage are you running? Keen to hear your review/impressions. Knowing @M3ANs good fortune he probably already has the tune. Haha
  4. Great purchase! I had my eye on this one for a while and nearly pulled the trigger- glad to hear it went to an enthusiast. You should check to see if the mid-pipe’s been deleted too- this could exacerbate the noise of the m performance backbox. Also, the m performance airbox apparently makes a booming sound at cruising speed- read here (solution included) https://babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18833
  5. $100 on TM at the moment https://www.trademe.co.nz/trade-me-motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/suspension/auction-2553476838.htm I ordered a set of poly bushings myself- cheaper than M3 bushings and easier to install!
  6. If your subframe bushings are old, the inserts only serve as a band-aid solution. With that said, anything’s better than the squishy RSB and if you’re on a budget (and your existing bushings are in good condition) they’re viable. Keep in mind this is conjecture based on what I've read on various forums
  7. Thanks gents- this info has been very helpful!
  8. I was considering the poly subframe bushes but was a bit concerned there might be squeaks and other odd noises. I've had bad experiences previously with annoying poly sway bar bushes. I'll definitely take another look into it. Thanks guys!
  9. Has anyone had any rear subframe bushings fitted to an e8x or know of workshops in Auckland capable of installing a set at a reasonable cost? I’m considering e9x M3 rear subframe bushing for my 130i
  10. Is this necessary or optional when upgrading to the 135i brakes?
  11. Has anyone checked out either 1 of these 2 cars? Im wondering if they’re any good seeing as they’ve been on TM for a while; probably not surprising noting the prices https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2315375979.htm https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2443801132.htm
  12. I think he said it came with the car
  13. They’re not necessarily an issue per se, more of an incremental improvement one can make. The oem rear shock mounts are tall, soft (to reduce NVH) and deteriorate over time. Dinan rear shock mounts are made from a stiffer material which still has acceptable NVH properties but also allows the shock to operate efficiently. The biggest benefit is their reduced height. You can essentially run your stock progressive bump stops and have an additional 10mm of shock travel before the bumstops are engaged. This results in increased comfort, reduced pogoing effect and still maintains the sporty feel of the e87 (assuming the shocks are in good order). Whilst I like the B12 kit- especially at the price point, I’m not a huge fan of lowering the car any further; I reckon it’s low enough as is to be honest. If the Konis + rsm don't sort out the suspension I'll have to consider other options i.e. coilovers; but I'm reasonably confident (having had Konis on previous vehicles with good results).
  14. Interesting. I guess to some extent anything is better than the OEM suspension. It’s not terrible on smooth roads to be fair, but does get pretty dodgy on some backroads. I’d love a set of Ohlins or TC Kline coilovers but I can’t justify the expense at this point in time. I’m looking at koni yellow (sport) shocks and dinan rsm as a relatively inexpensive solutiuon to provide additional travel in the rear and tame the ‘pogoing’ effect. I’ve read that rear subframe inserts go a far way in taming the rear end too- something else to consider I guess…
  15. Out of interest, what sort of coilovers are you running? Thoughts on them?
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