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dubman

My Daily e30

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So, bought this off a BMW series competitor, comes with everything incl. tuned ECU and AFM. Will use an m20 single mass flywheel and will be dropping it in during Xmas. Fun fun.

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^ actually cracked up at your comment polley. Yes it is indeed. Just fits in there nicely.

Max, change ya name back to "tastic" :P

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anything wrong with your B16 motor? could be interested in it to give you some pocket money. no rush

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anything wrong with your B16 motor? could be interested in it to give you some pocket money. no rush

PM'd you Andy

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^ hopefully, don't know how much difference it makes (20-30kg's?) compared to stock m40

Can anyone identify this flywheel? I assumed it was m20 single mass (was told this). Either I can't measure correctly (it is 223mm diameter) or it is something else. Fits perfect onto my m40, without rubbing any rear seal bolts.

Also, can't find any timing reference on the side, do all flywheels have this? I'm all ears :) , just want to check before clutch kit is ordered. Thanks!

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Edited by dubman

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looks like a e36 m40, m43,m42 single mass type comes in 9.5kg and 10kg approx ,yours looks like the lighter one

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well that sucks. Thanks Brent

why's that

i have used these behind 325i 328i etc just get a sleightly modified clutch kit from auto clutch etc ,

they work quite well.

plenty of bit and grip etc.

like this.

my mate has one with a carbon kevlar clutch disc in his 328Ti race car

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just a minor inconvenience. On the plus side, don't have to worry about clearance for the rear seal bolts. Will my e30 m40 starter and TOB still work?

Thanks for the pointer Brent, looks like a good option. I'll give them a ring during business hours,

edit: clutch release bearing has same p/n for e36 and e30, so should be ok

Edited by dubman

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This should be very interesting with the upgraded engine.

Look forward to seeing the results

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M20 fly wheel might not have enough weight to keep a 4cylinder going?

that one might be a M20B27 flywheel tho? is there a part number on it at all?

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M20 fly wheel might not have enough weight to keep a 4cylinder going?

that one might be a M20B27 flywheel tho? is there a part number on it at all?

none that I noticed. Not too worried about weight, it's the surface area i'm after and to help with occasional trackdays (slippage after several laps).

edit: what do you mean by keeping it going? i thought lighter was better :blink:

Edited by dubman

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none that I noticed. Not too worried about weight, it's the surface area i'm after and to help with occasional trackdays (slippage after several laps).

edit: what do you mean by keeping it going? i thought lighter was better :blink:

yes lighter is better, but there is a critical mass that a flywheel must be at least that weight overtherwise it wont run. otherwise youd just have a 200gram titanium plate or whatever and call it a day. eg a V12 or V8 manual can run a much lighter flywheel than a 4 cylinder because its crank getting power delivered to it twice or three times as often. the flywheel mainly serves as a device to smooth out operation of the engine and store energy, the fact that its a convenient place to bolt the clutch plays second fiddle

I think i know what im talking about, could be wrong :P

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_

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Some blood and sweat later, all removed! Forgot to take it to Pitstop to free up my exhaust, and took the "she'll be alrite" attitude. Also, utter BS when people say "hammer out the subframe posts" :P:lol: | Yea Right

Will order braided lines and re-install next weekend. Then off to Pitstop to free up the exhaust for engine removal. Hacksaw by hand doesn't work. At. All.

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Trailing arm bushes removed. All makeshift tool items can be bought from bunnings.

Rod is M10 x 1m length (cut it into 3rd's)

3 M10 nuts

2 square plates with M10 sized centre

17mm 1/2 drive deep socket

old BMX pegs, they fitted by chance :D. Pipes can also work

Normally, your nuts will be stronger than your rod, so go slow to avoid cross threading the rod etc. You can extract bushes out half-way, then undo everything, then extract the 2nd half out with your 2nd go at it. This was the only way I didn't cross thread the rod thread. Something to do with load, due to science or voodoo reasons.

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Burned my subframe bushes out also. If you don't have a torch to heat the bushes up to it's burning temperature, drill holes into the rubber (4 was my optimum number) into each side, then use spirits/petrol/lighter fluid + matches/lighter to soften the rubber up a bit, then saw out the gooey centre. Afterwards, you light it up again with accelerant of choice, because now you can burn all of it out in one go (drawing more air for easier combustion). Or, again, due to science or voodoo reasons.

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Credit goes to various Bimmersporter burning their bushes out, and http://www.firstfives.org/faq/trailing_arm...ushing_faq.html

Edited by dubman

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what ever works i suppose. Love the work you've done on the e36 Michael. A true build project, not bolt and replace haha

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