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MHD flash app. Anyone tried this yet?

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10 minutes ago, NakiTouring said:

I assume the car is currently inoperable, or does it still run? Do you have another Android device you can put your Google account on? I guess finding a USB C one might be an issue...

I believe it is inoperable but I haven't tried to start it since trying to flash today. Might start in a limp mode. 

I have lots of decent Android phones I could test.

Like my s8 but it seems that you have to do more than just have the same Gmail on the phone to use the modules already purchased.

One of the other guys @Benji335i mentioned transferring the account. 

@B.M.W Ltd before when it was showing the voltage on the app it was saying 11.9v with a charger on, now it shows only 0 volts via app. 

I checked directly with voltmeter AMD said I had 12.6-8v . Which did seem lower than people online. But even with my brand new battery was the same with 710CCA as well.

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17 hours ago, digitalashley said:

 

I have lots of decent Android phones I could test.

Like my s8 but it seems that you have to do more than just have the same Gmail on the phone to use the modules already purchased.

One of the other guys @Benji335i mentioned transferring the account. 

 

I bought a phone for the wife recently, put my Google account on it, downloaded the MHD app and away it went (I had to do this as unfortunately my Note 8's USB port is shagged).  My understanding is that for licensing, it checks your Google account and the car's DME.

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On 7/31/2018 at 5:21 PM, NakiTouring said:

I bought a phone for the wife recently, put my Google account on it, downloaded the MHD app and away it went (I had to do this as unfortunately my Note 8's USB port is shagged).  My understanding is that for licensing, it checks your Google account and the car's DME.

Oh really weird. I have the same Gmail on both phones and MHD says I need to buy the modules again. 

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So after a night being on the charger and using my new cheap cable I managed to flash back to stock. Then managed to flash the stage 1 98 Ron map. Definitely noticed the difference with power. Car also runs warmer though. Extra 10 degrees at 110 instead of my standard 100 degrees. It does get very close to 120 degrees when boosting it a little..

I'm unsure if that temp is okay..

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For future MHD people make sure battery is at least at 13 volts and with a charger running then attempt to flash. 

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57 minutes ago, digitalashley said:

For future MHD people make sure battery is at least at 13 volts and with a charger running then attempt to flash. 

How many times should I need to tell people ??  13.7v is the maintained voltage specified by all manufacturers when coding or flashing

Edited by B.M.W Ltd
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@digitalashley  When I took mine to Hampton downs oil temps went up quite high,  peaked at around  140 degrees.  120 will be fine,  If you have good oil it won't start breaking down at 120 degrees.  If your car has an oil cooler you could get the Burger Motorsports sport oil cooler valve.

Edited by Ninjaspartan

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14 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

How many times should I need to tell people ??  13.7v is the maintained voltage specified by all manufacturers when coding or flashing

Won't have to tell me again 😅. I've never done any software stuff before always been maintenance items on all my car's. 

I thought if I had the charger running with it while flashing it's fine. But you are definitely right my car wouldn't do a full flash until I had it over 13v ,the small 2 min flashes are going through fine without my charger so far. But still would suggest to others only flash with charger 100%

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12 hours ago, Ninjaspartan said:

@digitalashley  When I took mine to Hampton downs oil temps went up quite high,  peaked at around  140 degrees.  120 will be fine,  If you have good oil it won't start breaking down at 120 degrees.  If your car has an oil cooler you could get the Burger Motorsports sport oil cooler valve.

Yeah I'll be changing the oil again soon just since I don't have the oil cap tool yet waiting on that to arrive. Will be putting in penrite 5w 30 fully synthetic. That would be a good oil I assume seems to have the rite certs . 

The oil cooler would be the one located in my right wheel well?

I like the sound of that, I assume just a more open valve?

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The only way to get your oil temp lower is a bigger or extra oil cooler. I have tried the BMS valve all it does is open earlier its not fix for multiple laps on track days.

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Im safe running stage 1 with vrsf downpipes right? 

Or do I need to go stage 2 so the tune knows I have pipes and so can adjust for the o2 readings correctly? 

I reflashed stage 1 with the pipes in, and made sure the catted downpipe box was unchecked, so I think im good, but doesn't harm to check. 

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Yep. I've driven on stock map and stage 1 maps before with all S2 supporting mods and it drives fine.

Catted downpipe checkbox just hides the check engine light when you're catless, which isn't even an issue in NZ. Check engine lights don't prevent you passing a WOF. 

Edited by Matth5

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6 hours ago, blake12 said:

Im safe running stage 1 with vrsf downpipes right? 

Or do I need to go stage 2 so the tune knows I have pipes and so can adjust for the o2 readings correctly? 

I reflashed stage 1 with the pipes in, and made sure the catted downpipe box was unchecked, so I think im good, but doesn't harm to check. 

I'm in the same boat, plus silicone inlets, and was wondering the same thing...just haven't been brave enough to go stage 2 yet for fear of breaking something.  I know that with my Polo 1.8T, you can't (or shouldn't) have a catless DP without the appropriate stage 2 tune...something to do with over boost I believe.  Not sure on the details, I think smarter boost sensor and or ECU on the Bavarian cars?  But even with the silicon inlets, an off the shelf stage 2 for my N54 is probably not ideal.

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Stage 1 or 1+ are fine with standard cats but upgraded Inter cooler is recommended. Stage 2 wants new inter cooler and cat less down pipes. Interestingly Stage 1+ has similar power to stage 2 stage 2+ ups it over both. 

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From memory

stage 1 is no bolt ons needed so fully stock - I ran this for about a year and made huge difference and car ran great but I had car serviced and fresh plugs and coils  

stage 2 is downpipes

the + on either stage means upgraded intercooler as well as what ever the stage needs.

 

I’ve been running 2+ for about a year with down pipes, intercooler, charge pipe and inlets and again. Runs great. Strong gain over stage 1. Stacked with xhp is a nice combination.  

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Yeh I understand what each tune requires, I was asking if it was safe to stay on stage 1/1+ with catless downpipes or if I needed to go stage 2. But seeing there is an option to choose catted/catless dp's on the stage 1 flash, I am guessing it is safe. 

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The checkbox is purely to enable/disable the error codes, it does not affect the tune.

But yes it is safe, even the stock map works fine. 

Edited by Matth5

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