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enjoy

To bad it's a toyota engine, average interior, rep wheels, and lacklustre grey. It's been on TM for a long time I don't think he wants any less that 10k

the rear half of the color scheme i liked N/A rota in drifter not the greatest with 200hp

Rather eclectic colour scheme they went for. Didn't this start off as a V8 (1UZ / M60?) Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the basis for a successful drift car a high torque engine with a linear power curve? If so, what's with the 13b??

Would be cool to see a Euro powered BMW drifing like they do in Europe.

Finally got the intake manifold out and the water pipe out. Here's the bastard... She crumbles away to powder when you pick at it. And for those interested, a pic of one of the rocker covers reinstalled.

I`ve got a M62 here that I`ll donate. Now t o convince them.

Feelin for you - you will get there. I had a big problem after I did my top end check (soleniod pack soldered joint failure) which had me thinking I had totally cocked up the job. Great support from the forum (Tom) got me through - post your progress/observations - someone may be able to help you avoid the flat bed

Cheers guys, its a sr20de+t running a t28 off a s15. Not going for huge power on this motor. Planning on around 200rwkw but very responsive. Very little progress today, touched up and assembled driveshaft and mounted boost solenoid.

looked pretty good then i saw the rota.......

Job done. Mostly easy if you have the right tools, patience, and don't mind hands that look like they've been mauled by a cat. Took me about 6 hours all up doing it slowly and carefully, with breaks and photo taking. All CPS's were original as verified by the date codes on the parts. No fault codes produced in my ownership for them being bad, so It's a bit of preventative maintenance. There are theories that these do slowly fail before producing a fault code. I guess I'll see in the next while if it's made an improvement. Below are a few notes and pics that should be helpful to those tackling this job. Remove the weather strip and cowling cover that runs along the centre of the lower windshield cover (4 screws that twist and pull out) gives your arms and hands a bit more working room : Remove these 3 hoses running to the heater. About 1 litre of coolant drips out, makes life A LOT easier if you have big mits for hands : Passenger side Intake CPS removed. These are the tools I used to remove it. There is a bracket that attaches the wiring loom box and fuel line bracket to the rear of the cylinder head. It also obstructs the hex screw required to remove the intake CPS - All needs to be removed blind. There is a 10mm bolt right in between the bracket that affixes a cover to the cylinder head - DO NOT remove it, coolant comes out. Very easy to get confused, so getting a good feel for things, and using an inspection mirror goes a long way. In these pics, you can see the hex screw for the passenger side Exhaust cps. This is why life becomes better with those heater hoses removed and tucked in out of the way. Remove the hex screw, and pull the sensor out with the plug connected - Much easier to unplug this way. Over to the drivers side now. The intake CPS is just as much of a c#nt to remove as you have another stupid bracket like on the passenger side in the way. I spent a good hour after trying to get the bracket back in after the cps was swapped out, but gave up. Next time I have access to a hoist I might install back in then. No issues afaik with it not being there for now. Looking at the reflection in the inspection mirror below, you can see the hole for where the car's original intake CPS lived. Tools used to get both intake and exhaust CPS's out, and new ones back in.

Whoever it was in the M3 going the other way who beeped as I went by in my M3 convertible on the Kapiti Coast this afternoon...I heard you :-)

Sunny day and she's still clean since last week's Wenderholm meet so thought it was worth taking a quick snap.

The main reason I think they look a bit small is that the white centers draw all the attention and they are only about 12". The lips kind of get lost, the eye does funny things. These are the same wheels I believe with silver centers so there isn't that separation, they seem so much bigger though...

Once lowered it will look on point And dont worry about the colour .. it will look amazeballs .. in fact I would say the one of the nicest e30s on this site/country. The think about the thicker rims / reversed face lip is the do look weird until theyre lowered. You will get a race wheel type of look once youve done it.

Lol should've hid it better, I'm planning on moving it back to my place to get her back on the road in the next month or so... Too many cars at my house

I'm getting adjusties in a month or two so that's the height issue sorted. I think silver RS's is just too common. I like the alpine white colour coded look, it's different. Cheers for the opinions though, guess it's not everyone's cup of tea

Yea, I dunno - I've started to look at the E28's in a whole new light the last coupla months, & I think in some ways for me personally, I'm now at the stage where I'd prefer one over a E30............