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When I saw it again I made the biggest "ohhh I see what you're doing" face when I saw there were no detailed pictures. The seal on the lid for the roof compartment is shrunk and gone, so there's some rust in there. I didn't see inside the actual car, but it had the exact same missing seal section as I saw on the net. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

From memory, the OEM ones are about $150, which is a lot for a bit of stamped out steel plate.

lci lights are way better, M is on the wrong side!

OK just realized I haven't thrown out my old ones. My digital vernier caliper is broken so tomorrow I'll take a drive up to the Bolt Shop and get the sizes and thread type then post.

Took advantage of a day off and installed a set of genuine Hella FL LED tail lights that I picked up from Matt (Ahmedsinc). Followed the retrofit instructions to the letter but found the lights still didn't fit. The issue is the small amount of filing/grinding shown here (blue arrow) on bmwdiy.com: I don't know whether the retrofit lights are different to the factory-fitted ones but this didn't work for me at all and I had to resort to a bit of good old fashioned hammering to get them to fit. No big drama though, it's out of sight and used some touch up paint to seal any bare metal against rust. Before Quick test fit Stealth Two new holes drilled and a bit of hammering Old and new connectors Testing out my rarely used soldering skills My helpful assistant Done and modernised. Just a bit of LCM coding to go. Even restored all the original badges and got rid of the black and white badboi emblems. EDIT: Oh, and filmed a quick test (hard to test the brakes lights on your own!) with a couple of gratuitous revs at the end... The exhaust is sounding pretty adequate.

Nz New Manual Convertible >SOLD SOLD< N42 powered excellent cond. Everything works as it should. $14500 ono TM Link:http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=700770865&ed=true

Oh yeah, it's not the checks that are the issue I think - the LCM actually pulse width modultes the 12V to run the LEDS, and they can burn out if run on 12V direct. I seem to recall you can alter the PWM to alter the brightness (or burn them out if you do it wrong). I'm nott 100% on that though - that's why I'd want to check the settings first. I have some vague recollection of the standard lights being set to 80 and coding to my car sets it at 20... But I could be dreaming - it's happened before

It's not just making the N54 fit physically. There's a huge difference in stability systems from older to newer cars, and unless you are game enough to attempt adding them to a chassis they were never designed for then it's too hard. Plus the dramas of integrating newer EWS plus god knows what other $hit BMW have come up with lately. Sort out your overheating issue then speak with Steve Murch at MSE engineering. He's the guru of Holset turbos in NZ and I'd be pretty confident he could deliver better results from turbocharging than an aftermarket s/c kit. Probably cheaper and with the advantage of having the expertise here in NZ the support is waaaay better too. Take a look at his E34 & E36s specifically, might give you an idea of what sort of mayhem you can unleash