kerrynzl

Don't have to! 90%of the time they cant ratchet the clamp up tight enough. The clamp is designed to stop you removing it one-way only [they pivot is at the front, so you have to swivel the inside away & around/under the wheel] I hope these are Council Nazi's you are f***king with

Hey Mate, Them damaging your car is illegal[with a wheel-clamp]But it works the other way as well [Don't damage their property either] The best way to remove a wheel-clamp is to Jack the car up [really high with a trolley jack] and slip the clamp down & under from the inside.[iT WORKS,BELIEVE ME, I HAVE DONE IT,] word of caution here; Don't under any circumstances remove a wheel-clamp issued by a court bailliff [impounded vehicle etc] You'll end up in Jail [bELIEVE ME,I DID]

Hey Man, Sorry to hear about your car getting a rear-ender [unless the other dude is a suicidal maniac,he will be feeling pretty bad as well] Before you let everyone vulture all the good bits from you, have a GOOD look at the car [face-it you drove it home]a chassis machine can do wonders. I sold a rollover E30 325 coupe to a guy in Sth Auck for the running gear, from the doors back it was mint [if you want to fix it, I can contact him for you]I'll see if he wants to sell the rear half. Watch those Neck Injuries[i've had them] The worst thing was I couldn't wear a helmet for 18 months Good luck mate....

Tyres showing wear because of 'too much camber'[camber thrust as racer's call it]is usually because of too much TOE-IN [German cars with huge amounts of caster,make this problem worse] Racers usually have zero-toe or some toe-out to counteract this problem. with excess camber the tyres act like cones & try and drive [thrust] towards each other. [with the correct allignment, 5 degrees Neg can be used successfully]

What the Hell are 'CAMBERED TYRES'? cambered suspension maybe, Tapered tyres maybe? F***KED TYRES definately

You can Reprogram your existing computer for about US$370 The Yanks [seppo's] call this "Shark Injector", Works Very Good for motorsports where you have to use standard ECU's & chips [i'm not suggesting cheating, just innovation] The Guru who makes this Software is Jim Conforti, just about every Bimmer web site in the States flogs his software. The other way to go is a Dinan Chip which has to be installed in the ECU. Apart from Computer controlled wastegates,which make real good gains,You are better off spending your money on booze [Your $$$ ends up in the same place] Unless the chip lifts the rev limit [and you are prepared to scream the engine] all the chip does is alter the Advance Curve,[most engines are fully advanced by 3200rpm]and the fuel mixture [like an oxyacetelene torch, too rich or too lean reduces heat] & the airflow meter and ECU aleady control this. The Real gains are made by getting more air through the engine[better volumetric eficiency and more rpm] $2500 for a computor ???, that'll go a long way on extractors,big bore,camshaft,K&N,competition valve job etc[or a bigger engine??]

Vanos or Non Vanos, I could get you a complete M50B25 non vanos from a 1991 525 [you'll need to swap sump for an E36, perfect for E30 swap]

Used the V12 Auto bellhousing, Machine up an adapter plate [this helps get everything centered]use a tilton or quartermaster hydraulic throwout bearing, Use a Tremec 5 speed. [This was how most Lexus V8's are adapted to manuals before aftermarket bellhousing were made for them] Chuck the V12 in, it'll be a good project [they sell for less than $1500 in the US] use headers into twin exhausts with a proper exhaust equalizer [it'll sound like an F1 car when it's screaming]

Air or Gas in a telescopic shock is only there to take-up the displacement of the rod [otherwise it would hydraulic and burst on compression] lever action shocks don't need air because they transfer fluid between 2 chambers[thru valving] steering dampers are a shock,with the air in a plastic bag[so it can be used on it's side] Mono-tube "Bilstein" shocks,have a gas pressurised "floating piston" to separate the gas from the fluid. The only gas shocks that hold weight are Air Shocks [overriders] "Like They Belong On A Beemer,Along With Fuzzy Dice,Chain Steering Wheels...................& Double Overhead Cup Holders"

If the springs are too soft ,they will settle a lot quicker, all springs will alter their set [not to be confused with rating]after a certain number of cycles. The spring rating remains the same throughout the whole life of the spring.the spring height [set] will continually alter with every cycle[like a yoyo]except it takes 1000's of cycles. Just reset the spring heights, or shim them up with those neoprene packers. Gas shocks do not hold up the vehicle [you can compress them with your hands]the nitrogen gas is there to stop the shock oil from aerating on twin tube shocks [non-bilstein style]they do not have a spring rating/or support the vehicle

How about FKN QIK [these are californian plates I had on my race car]

Conrod I hope you are going to use dual master cylinders & balance bar [pedalbox] for that set-up , otherwise the maths to calculate brake balance through a single master cylinder can be quite tricky. Set-up right you will have "Dog at the end of it's chain" stopping power

Hey I not sure if removing Cats is illegal yet [smogging cars isn't a WOF requirement] most modern Cats are high flow they are a matrix coated with a Platinum/Rhodium Ceramic designed to store heat [they glow white hot] to help afterburn unburnt hydrocarbons & 2xCO+ O2=2xCO2 [they need heat & oxygen to work correctly] any removal of a restriction in the exhaust [& intake]helps as long as it doesn't bleed of cylinder pressure] I remember seeing a USA test on high performance mufflers where an engine made more horsepower with their brand compared to OPEN HEADERS. what they did was grind a cam so the engine required excess backpressure from the muffler so it didn't lose cylinder pressure [therefore making more power with mufflers] Remember most Mods designed to increase Volumetric efficiency only work when the RPM goes up [torque x RPM] look at F1 engines [18000 rpm+]

Best 'El Cheapo' glue to use for trimming is 3M contact adhesive in a spray can [at $18.00 it comes with it's own compressor] Patience is required here,spray both surfaces then 'WAIT' [Wait a little longer than you think]then stick-em together. When Respraying Vinyl with vinyl-paint,Soften [soak]the product with M E K [methylethylketone]this sh*t can disolve vinyl,but when the MEK & the paint evaporates[dries] you'll find the new paint has soaked right in,making it harder to scratch off

Lawn bowls??? Golf would be better,At least we can Autocross the Golf Carts thru the sand traps. And when I get old, I dont think Late-Braking & Late-Apexing a mobility scooter around a rest home is a good idea You know you are a racer when...........You complain when the cars in front of you on motorway off-ramps don't stay on the line,causing your exit speed to drop!

Forgot to mention.......Speed costs money....How fast do you want to go?$$$$

Both those muscle car classes have something in their rules that makes my car illegal [My car is schedule K historic with good history] I don't want to modify it from its original form[and devalue my car at a cost of about another $50k] to race in either class .$10k for a Beemer race car is cheap. The Whittakers at manfield had the right format.....TIMED GROUPS, you can never level the playing field, except with a stopwatch. You can get a crap driver in a good car or vise versa, different era's, different levels of modifications, or classes etc but the stop-warch levels them all. The public [those who pay to watch] don't have to tolerate bullshit- handicap races! Every racer is equal [if you want to blow $3k on tyres, you'll end up racing with faster cars etc. If you want to stay where you are, you can] There are over 700 race cars in NZ with T&C COD's [More than in Los Angeles with 10 million population] Where the hell are they all hiding? Face it, If you had an old racer that you didn't need to spend a shitload on,that could WIN, you'd race it', I know I would.[that's why this Beemer class looks appealing to me] The word 'obsolete' was a bad choice by me

I know what you mean , I've got $150k tied up in a schedule K historic muscle car.And the promoters put my 36year old car up against Sport & GT cars where I don't have a chance at competing with. Hey this new Beemer class looks like cheap fun,If everyone has the same rules it should be close racing![everyone has 2degrees negative etc] I just like the visual appeal of the E36 [bTCC style] If I had a choice,I would build a E36 [i'd even repower it with a M20 if required to by the rule makers [NZ V8's run old carby 308's & 302's in modern cars] Remember nobody likes rules,and we all think our own situation is unique. It usually takes a hobby type racer 12 months to build a basic car [there ain't are ex-champ winning cars for sale yet]so I think it is foolish to start a class that looks obsolete before it gets to the first meeting. The biggest problem for racers [& promoters] is having nobody to race, so I'll build a E30 anyway [My championship winning car will be sold when E36's get introduced]by then I'll probably want an E46......................... You know you are a racer when...................You think the last line of our national anthem is "gentlemen start your engines!"

Thanx everyone! The reason I suggested E36's is because all classes need room for evolvement for future survival. Of all the MANZ classes out there only the V8 touring cars are thriving [HQ's, TranZam Lights,Mini 7's,Sentra GT's have all died,or are barely surviving as classes] most of these cars end up as T&C cars. There are over 700 T&C [thoroughbred & classic] race cars in NZ. [where the hell are they all hiding?] The biggest enemy of the E36 is weight [usually caused by all the extra crap that a more modern car has] when the car is stripped down to race spec the difference in weight would be minimal.the other problem with a E36 is most are Slush-Boxes [but you would want all cars to have the same gearboxes and ratio's anyway] Building a circuit car as a dual purpose rally car would require a lot of parts swapping and set-up changes [The only thing I believe that could do both is the engine/gearbox combo] Cheers everyone

Who can I contact about this 318/320 series, I am serious about cutting up a Beemer for racing. I would like to see one of these racers in person, If possible. They should allow E36 Beemers as well [there are lots of non-compliant E36's about] The newer BMW creates a different image to Joe-Blow-Spectator [it makes a budget class of racing look like a premier class] If I was a sponsor ,I would prefer the newer shaped cars. Anyway ALL RACING IS GOOD and E30's are plentiful and cheap. email me at 'kmathers@xtra.co.nz 'if you can point me in the right direction to go racing with one of these. I would appreciate the help.Thanx

I know of a 325 coupe [roll-over] with a tidy interior,If you are interested. just let me know and I'll hook you up with him

Horsepower is Torque X RPM [divided by 5252] 'horsepower breaks gearboxes'. a good smallblock should be between 350 and 450 FT/LB's. toyota boxes are marginal at that. I've seen a lot off them break on the circuit [they can survive on the street] The BMW Getrag 265 box was used a lot in group'A' racing in mustangs/sierra's [they are tough]

Just unplug your O2 sensor that'll richen it [if economy is ya thing ,just solder a 1.5v bettery across it] Seriously boyz dont F**K with these things. The main advantage of a chip is "altering the advance curve and lifting the rev limiter" The theory is "HORSEPOWER IS THE SIZE OF THE BANG MULTIPLIED BY THE NUMBER OF BANGS PER MINUTE" just get more air through it & let the electronics do their thing.

" no substitute for cubes" is an early american hotrod saying, quite appropriate for a chevy engine

Advancing the Cam improves low down torque[bMW Vanos retards to help starting,then advances for low RPM,then retards at about 3000 rpm] short intake runners & exhaust primaries are for High Rpm [high rpm=less time between pulses=short runners] most hp gains with headers are through open exhaust [they usually have different duration on the exhaust cam lobes to help scavenging] Get a bigger engine, its pushing the same weight car so it shouldn't use much more gas than standard.