kerrynzl

Same problem with a Nissan V6 ,when the base the base circle is ground more than 10 thou,the hydraulic lifters won't pump up enough to take up the clearance. Talk to Adrian at Franklin again,they can build up the lobes then grind the cam [it's a bit more expensive, but cheaper than a Shrick Cam] He did this to my brothers 300Z racecar, it worked perfectly

Clear Title means: No encumberances [no third party interests eg; finance co's etc] So if I sell it, the purchaser won't get haunted by the past

I want the short block , For an experiment in modifications. I have sold the interior on Trade-Me [checking his Feedbacks, I might have to keep my fingers crossed] The Car is Clear Titled, Rego expires February next Year. Send me your Email adress and I'll post you some pics Regards Kerry

He is only 17, but it is pointless giving Nicolas Chapman any more fines, said Judge Nevin Dawson in Palmerston North District Court yesterday. Chapman owes $55,830 in fines already and there is no evidence that a payment plan is in place or that payments have ever been made, he said. This legend has been outdone by a kid in Invercargill [Who owes $96k according to this weeks NZ Herald] I know somebody in Tauranga with $43k in fines [most were penalties on top of Fines]it gets beyond a joke, at 19 years of age he could never contemplate paying that amount off [so he didn't]anyway he negotiated with the judge [322 hours comunity service for $43 grand,sh*t thats $133 per hour Net]who needs a higher education or legal representation

Repco want $110 for a Boss Kit??? I've got a complete Momo wheel off an E30 that I'll sell for that

Hey Mate, Before you think there's a problem with the fronts, check the rears.[the car could be wedged] jack the car up in the centre of the rear[use a piece of tubing on its side,on the trolley jack as a pivot]then measure the height of the fronts.When one side of the rear sags,it usually lifts diagonally opposite [the fronts get blamed] Most springs are linear, which means they load the same distance with the same weight [if the fronts are the problem,either one side has more weight on it,or one spring is longer "out of the box"]

Thanks for that Grant, Yeah those directions were OK

I'm going to scavenge too much off it , to sell it complete [seems a shame 'cause it's a nice car] all the bits will be going to a good cause

How can I tell for sure [While it's still in the car] I visually checked it out ,It seems about the same size as my 328 head [They all look small to me, compared to Corvette diff heads]

Hey Gus, slight misunderstanding .I'm after the Torque settings in Foot/Pounds or Inch/Pounds [because My old W&B Torque Wrench is Imperial] If someone can only supply the figures in Newton/Metres it will do I aggree with You about Flywheel & PP bolts [i've seen 'em come off too many times] I always Torque them

I was told 1990 E34 ,Mileage I'm unsure

I'm getting the E36 4.10 diff & axles out this friday 7th july, if you're still interested. Tried TXTing you but your number you gave has too many digits

Keeping gearknob with the manual conversion, Boot?? is that the Boot Lid or all the Boot Interior lining? pm me your email address so I can sent some pics. Also anybody reading this, I have a Factory E36 Alloy Sump Guard [similar to Rally cars] I've never seen one before. It'll be perfect for a E36 thats been dumped into the weeds

Keeping gearknob with the manual conversion, Boot?? is that the Boot Lid or all the Boot Interior lining? pm me your email address so I can sent some pics. Also anybody reading this, I have a Factory E36 Alloy Sump Guard [similar to Rally cars] I've never seen one before. It'll be perfect for a E36 thats been dumped into the weeds

Anybody out there in Bimmerland know the Torque Settings for a manual flywheel & pressure plate for a M50 Engine [Foot / Pounds] Also where can I get [buy] the sockets for those 6 point cap-screws [bellhousing bolts & rear CV's] Chairs [Cheers] Everyone

Both front pillars are grey velour [in good nick!] Sorry no front splitter

Hey Everybody, I've got a complete straight 328 manual sedan [1996 E36] with a F***ED engine that I want to wreck out totally [i'm keeping the manual conversion] It has leather, factory CD changer, alloys, straight body etc Give me an Email if you're interested in anything off it [before I banish it to the Trade-me vultures] Cheers Kerry [kmathers@xtra.co.nz]

When you have to stand the motor up to clear those snails, you're looking at a serious engine. I'd be interested to know what gearbox is behind it. With dry sump the engine pulls vacuum in the crankcase which helps with the rings sealing and at 6-8500 there is no windage on the crank [gain is usually about 30 hp on a v8] in circuit cars [for example mine] at 1.4G's of cornering, there is an oil starvation problem [Dry sumping can get expensive,mine cost $10k. oil changes at $85.00 for a take home pack of full synthetic x 16 litres =$340.00]

As quoted: I have seen road cars go faster on the track with em. there is nothing set in black & white with Handling. As with any performance enhancements,I prefer good sound engineering [rather than romancing the car with shiny parts] Hey I've seen both methods work well. A lot of components do what they are intended to do. I've also seen relatively stock parts [massaged]also do really well in racing situations.This new E30 class should prove that. As stated,it might be a too thin an interpretation[Thats why I posted it on a public forum] I won't tell anyone my secrets[until I'm caught, HaHa!] The idea is to provoke some sort of innovative thinking,based on sound engineering. Anybody can 'throw their chequebook' at their car, and get reasonable performance,But the real Clever People can achieve better results with talent and innovation.

Generally there is more flex in the 'hats' and the inner bushes, than you can ever possibly get in the inner guard & chassis rails. In my first posting on this thread I stated something 'about chasing the weakest point'. On a racecar most of the compliance is removed from the suspension,Combine this with stiff springs and race tyres and the chassis will flex. I personally think strut braces on street cars are just 'bling bling' BUT. . . . . . I've also seen road cars go faster on the track with them. so who really knows? I've seen in some production classes, where they dial-in extra camber to allow for chassis flex [with this E30 class there is a 2-1/2 negative rule so everything helps] I don't know if this would be a too thin an interpretation of the rules. Put a Rose joint on the ends of the strut brace and somehow bolt them directly to the shock [shaft] It is technically not a mount

Not a dumb question at all. A macpherson system is a triangle from the upper [Tower] to the inner pivot to the outer ball joint. one side of the triangle shortens [the strut] changing the angle of the lower leg. Most manufacturers have a bearing mounted in rubber at the top of the strut. If you want to remove the compliance caused by rubber, you have to use a spherical bearing in the top hat. So if anyone uses a strut brace with standard 'Hats',the strut brace only supports the owners ego.

Anything can be Drifted [or designed to be drifted] the main problem with short wheelbase cars is their low polar moment of inertia [weight between the wheelbase]for agility. If you increased the weight BEHIND the rear wheels, it would drift easily[along with all the other mods] Years ago,I had an aquaintance from the USA that was a stunt driver on a Movie-Set. They were Drifting a double-decker London bus around the streets of San Diego [i've seen the footage, it was f***en crazy] all they did was knock the side windows out[so it woudn't act like a sail]& gut out all the seating.Aparently there is no weight in the coachwork and being rear engined made it easy [they hosed down the road] Maybe I should go and build that Triumph Herald Drift Car [ha ha]

I forgot to mention, The only thing that is fixed on a macpherson strut suspension is the Scrub Radius "the angle of the strut to the stub axle[vertical plane]" all other mediums change angle thru movement, including caster [if needed to]. From a side view .If the lower 'A' arm is horizontal, and the strut has caster in it. The Caster will increase under compression [when the front dives]. The Brake Caliper attached to the strut tries to decrease caster thru torque [which counteracts against the caster induced thru dive] which is how anti-dive is engineered into geometry.[Doing the opposite in the rear is called anti-squat]

The normal compromise way to increase 'induced negative' is to 'raise the roll center' by lowering the outer ball joint [ this way, the Macpherson 'kicks out' at the bottom when it goes thru its range of movement] But Raising the roll center higher than the height of the outer ball-joint height causes problems,because the loads induced thru lateral acceleration can be greater than the weight of the vehicle,causing a jacking effect [a la triumph herald & dubby rear suspension] Generally on macpherson suspension this isn't needed, it will naturally induce more negative as it is compressed because of it's triangle[3 pivot point] design [have a look at cars that are lowered]

With camber [E36's I will soon find out for myself] you want 1/2degree negative for maxamum adhesion]. So if your car bobyrolls 2 degress, you need 2-1/2 degrees static negative. Most suspension systems are designed to have dynamic [induced] negative so that less static negative is needed [for straight line driving] the best way to view this is with a camber guage and a trolley jack and the spring removed. If geometry can't be altered, The best thing to do is: Drive the car Hard [on the track]around a few corners. Then measure across the tyre with a Pyrometer [if it's too hot on the outside, use more negative. If its hotter on the shoulders of the tyre and not the center, it's under inflated etc etc] the trick with suspension ,is to set it up to how it's going to be used.[and to use information correctly] You don't need fancy shiny parts [just a good match of the right components]