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Posts posted by mr E34
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is it an M5 tho?.....even if it isnt its a lot of car for your money...S38 power...If i was in your shoes Simon i would stick with the V8...If i wanted a M5,I am sorry but it would have to be a proper one...
100% correct.It is not an M5, and never will be.
Even a real M5(3.6) is too slow in todays world, a 540is is a better bet for all round performance.
3.8ltr is getting there.
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I'm not surprised to hear that! To me, the E39 M5 IS the ultimate in terms of a combination of power, looks and luxury.
Agree with you Yuen apart from "LOOKS".
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Keep looking for a better one, be patient. What about this M3, posted on Bimmersport earlier.
http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=15033
$3500 approx in your ugly box not counting your bad box, sorry my opinion which may break your heart is walk away.
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State your case clearly without aggro & ALWAYS get a receipt in future to prove fuel/ltrs used, i never leave a gas station now without my receipt.
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If it's as good as the pix/mileage suggests it's worth paying extra for quality.
Quality is remembered well after price is forgotton.
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M30 install in E30 for everyones interest(hope Glenn doesn't mind)
Really good pictures etc.
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Stunning old world building! Roam the streets of old Paris and prepare your eyes for stunning.
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One of you guys might be interested. Who would like to value this.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...111631.htm?p=17
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Are the later Vanos any better??Can you redesign the original with the help of an engineer, pretty bad design when the krauts can't make reliable technology.
Hope you have some luck in the rebuild.
Just read oldschool, seems to know kits etc.
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all e34 m5,s started with a "std" E34 body though didnt they???
E34 shell taken to another plant to be hand built by a couple of German M dudes, not anymore.
Not that exclusive anymore, lets pump out 100,000 M3's etc etc etc.
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A little bit of info if interested in BMW engine mods.
http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticles/eurp...gine/index.html
or
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The guy has put vin and its a 520 alright. The car would so need to go on a hoist and have a super critical inspection all over, the doughs getting up there for it now for a mongrel. Already the body still needs paint and badges to get to M5 look. Wonder what else needs sorting?
Had a chat to Brent, he said the original M5 was written off and everything transferred to the donor car/ 520i.
Not really a hand built factory car anymore, what do you guys reckon??
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Well nearly $5k for a new clutch and dual mass flywheel is a fair wack! Say a blown engine might be abit more. An overhall of a smg gearbox might be more than that though ay Doug
You 'M' guys must have deep pockets, a mistress might be cheaper in her own apartment!
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After the pre-purchase make sure you talk directly to the mechanic/technician WHO ACTUALLY looked at the car.
You will find out alot more than simple ticks/crosses, ask about the E36 M3 faults etc.
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This thread has descended in to nothing more than tacky relish.
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Don't know how strong M20 bottom end is, i do know M30 can take it. I run piggyback map2 on stock M30 535is, no AFM.
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Hi fellow M30 powered E34, interested in your exhaust upgrade for ideas etc.Welcome to Bimmersport.
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If your target is 300hp you will have to turbo the M30, good strong engine. N/A target is 250-260hp, still costs too much.
Tuned M30 in an E30 is pretty good, check out Alpina E30 B6S for specs etc.
Most powerful option is to drop in 4ltr M60 V8, all the engine development work done for you courtesy of BMW.
Ask Brent on Bimmersport.
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Everyones mate is back on deck, shunted the listing here.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Other/auct...412191.htm?p=31
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The ecu is the bit you need to worry about. Also it is a spike that causes the most damage (Like that which can happen when you connect the other vehicle to yours or you start the other vehicle.
As the ecu is not connected to the power circuit with the ignition off, the best bet is to leave the ignition off, start the other car, connect the leads, then start the flat car.
Most modern leads have spike protectors.
Even so I tend to use a jump-start kit which has electronic protection.
Definitely correct. Also when you get your car started turn on BOTH CARS LIGHTS to load up the system and then disconnect the jumper leads.
Don't forget the ECU does still have a main +12v even with ignition off.
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I would have thought someone overseas would buy it because of the very low k's.Not many around with that mileage, they are all getting old now & have all been spanked hard with big k's.
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My E34 had 17" Schnitzers on it, (classic 5 spoke) but it sure didn't look as good as Classic Alpina 20 spoke.
They had no dish and and just like a tired old record, heard (seen) it all before on every car.
Green E34 "M5" $12,000
in For Sale
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Attach a vbox and try and do those times, i doubt it.
PWR figures are misleading, those are bench dyno figures with special BLUEPRINTED engines built for the test. NO ancilliaries connected, production engines within 5%, take off 15hp give or take, add on pwr steer, alternator, production exhaust system etc etc.