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mr E34

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Posts posted by mr E34


  1. AFM are removed (on ALL older cars)because the flap system is slow to respond & is a major restriction to the air flow...thats why you now have hot wire systems...even the M3 CSL (E46) went to MAF.

    Some options are as follows:

    Remap the existing ECU on a rolling road dyno.

    Remove AFM & piggyback Map-Ecu 2 (MAF system) on to existing motronic & rolling road tune (Map-Ecu 2- GO KIWI'S, NZ DESIGNED)

    http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=16177

    Fit complete aftermarket ECU...not worth it for a stock 2.5 M20


  2. Like camb said, what are the goals/budget.......costs a lot of money for small gains on an N/A engine......basics are bore out throttle body, fit a set of Waynes stainless equal length headers + rolling road remap or piggyback, or just change the diff ratio for quicker accel.


  3. Thorney motorsport UK have done a lot of development on the CSL for racing, their car puts out 400HP (flywheel)..they developed a fantastic set of headers /exhaust with partners Supersprint...the headers + remap gave 25hp, they developed their own cams (Schrick cams)...they are also making double layer carbon fibre panels/bumpers etc because of the BMW prices.

    www.thorneymotorsport.co.uk


  4. TBMW project car: E39 523i.... M50 manifold, bore throttle body,remap ecu.... gained 37Hp @ flywheel & 20 lbs/ft.

    Power/torque curve has solid gain from idle to redline...worth doing for sure.

    Power 207.5hp

    Torque 179.9lbs/ft

    ....with the new manifold & remap it's much more like driving a 528i....stepoff from standstill is improved too, easier to drive in traffic....work carried out by Chipped UK.


  5. To measure quiescent current (background drain)i.e. current drain when vehicle in shut down mode, disconnect +ve terminal from battery & set your digital meter to AMPS DC, put the positive multimeter lead on the +ve battery terminal & the -ve multimeter lead to the +ve cable that was connected to the battery....the reading should come up like 0.2 as an example....this means it is drawing 200ma...which is 1 fifth of an AMP, if it read 0.1 that is 100ma.It shouldn't draw much current at all.

    I don't know what most cars draw on standby,will vary considerably..someone will have a rough idea.

    edit. your battery must be on the way out unless it just needs a good long charge.


  6. As Glenn said, be careful with those hot wire systems, when you turn off your car they normally put thru a quick burst of increased voltage to burn off any crap.

    As for dyno before/after,waste of time/ money if you have faults, get everything addressed first....not sure if this is any help but in the latest TBMW mag they talk about the E39 M5 afm being a weak point, faulty units cause big pwr drop offs...................these two(2x units on M5) small plastic tubes are the key to the M5 & with new ones it's like having another 100hp!


  7. Brent is correct on the Panasonic, years ago they bought out a plasma company that was on their millionth(you get the idea) generation screen, they were well ahead of most of the other companies (generation wise).

    I started electronics on some early valve tellies & then as K9's, Pye & english stuff........the modern CRT tube can still give a superb picture.


  8. I have just done some quick maths and if you were to buy this car today and ship it to NZ it would end up owing you about $17,500.00 then it would have to be complied and registered.

    Ask your self, is an '87 E30 M3 really worth $18,500.00? because thats the least it will would cost you and remember it's a left hooker.

    Yeah & after all that you have to go thru the whole vehicle & do all the deferred maintenance.....with that mileage if the engine hasn't had some top end work etc you will have to spend $$...when you take on an old classic you have to commit yourself to the project.

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