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The process has been slow but methodical, And now I.I've come up to another situation. the cam cog has only one mark on it.Its on a tooth, but there is no marks at all on the outer casings to give me a position for the tdc with the crank.So I have put the camshaft so that the 1st lobe is at about 11 0clock looking at the front of the engine.And the cam cog mark is about the center line of the engine.The cam tool holds it there, I realize that it could be in one of 4 positions, but this one seems correct. Is it ?

thanks for that I have made up the tools that you recommended to lock the cam and the fly wheel. it was the tension that concerned me as one of the dealer serviceman said that it needed to be quite tight, and I wondered what he meant by "quite"

thankyou yes I have the BMW instructions they were printed out for me by a friend but did not have the special tool, and was wondering how other mechanic's do it without the special tool.

can Anyone in here tell me how to tension up the cam belt to the correct tension? or some easy way of doing it/

Can anyone tell me the correct tension to be put on the cam belt when replacing with a new one or better still how to put the correct tension against it. This is on the m40 engine

just if your interested Ian at"Eurotech" in Palmerston North has just completed an upgrade on a 2002 and they have dynoed it at somewhere between 215 and 220hp i think they also upgraded it to a multi clutch. but he could tell you more. they stayed close to 2002 bits on everything, you might like to contact him.

That is sooo cool I'll let you know how it goes. thankyou for that.

OK got that, camshaft locked and crankshaft locked, but the pulley still can move this one tooth either way.Does this not matter? My limited understanding of this is that the camshaft can be altered slightly forward of tdc or back. And can make a cam grind really good or not so good.Am I correct in thinking this? To help my understanding of this I was told to fit vernier pulleys to a twin cam I had so the rolling road guys could adjust the cams to their maximum performance level. Was I being led up the garden path or is that what is happening here?

Yes it is going to what you have said so far and you are correct it is fairly easy. Where are is the best place to get a cam belt and the best price.also does anyone have a new camshaft seal and a head to block seal on the water side new that they want to sell? ( I'm actully enjoying this and learning at the same time,it is fun)

I took the head off to be planed due to a blowen head gasket and the machinist took the cam off. and I now see that there is movement of around one tooth when the cam pulley is back on. I thought it would key on tight, but there is this movement of around a tooth which seems to me to be like a vernier pulley but not as sophisticated.There is no doubt that this is made like this but how do you time the cam. just put it in the middle or is there some other way?

can someone help with the cam belt replacement procedure for an m40 please and also the way to set up the cam sprocket and time it correctly

the cam pulley has about a tooth of movement in it this seems to be the same as the variable cam pulley. what is the best position for it ? I would guess that its best to start in the middle. and is there a big change from one side to the other?And would there be a noticeable difference.

Glenn if you have a mechanical insurance and there are more than one fault when the car goes in to have them repaired.Do you have to pay the excess for the number of faults or do you repair them on the one claim form and pay the one excess?

thanks for that It sounds just like that is the fault to me also are the wheels at the top of the mechanism or at the bottom ? and are they easy to get at? and would you have a exploded view of the mechanism?

thankyou for posting the site but I cannot open anything could you tell me how please? also with the m40 head sitting on my workbench I was going to turn the camshaft and put the gearwheel back on to turn it and noticed the movement of around one tooth . this will affect the timing when being put back together as I expected that to be a keyed on tight fit so as to help with the timing of the camshaft. this now looks like a situation of in the assembly adjusting the cam wheel a few degrees +/- and that I will need some sort of BMW tool to lock the cam into a position before fixing the gearwheel onto the camshaft.is this correct and if so how can this be done at home?

went away for a weeks holiday and the passenger window packed a sad and would not go back up after being wound down it got weak and needs me to help it up goes down OK, Then the r/h passenger one was used around a day later and made a terrible noise like something breaking and it wont go up or down. And after this being brought to my attention I notice that the drivers one sometimes makes a noise during use. Is this a problem for the E's or am I just unlucky.

Sorry that was an oversite its a m40 1990 chassis no 3300015

just into taking off the head for a new head gasket and have come across first obstacle is that a torx head on the cam bolt? can I get away without having to take off any further bits in front? or does the fan pulley need to come off and associated covers? what size is the cam bolt socket that I will need to buy?

thanks for that

Sorry for the silly question but how do I find that ?

Anyone got a e46 stereo unit for sale the NZ new one. Not the jap one?

I suppose it depends on how much you want to work on your own car.If you wish to do that yourself try what I'm using it lasts a long time its cheep and you get a lot for your money.Go to the supermarket buy some black nugget scuff stuff put about 2 desert spoons into a ice cream container and get a small paint brush and paint the tires.let that dry for about an hour and it should last you for months.I last did mine about 5 months ago and its still good. if you are on a gravel road or you off road your car then you will need to do this more regularly. sorry I forgot to mention don't get it on your rims or paintwork its too hard to get off.

Have you bled the system. Then run your checks? It is going somewhere if you are filling the overflow bottle regularly. another place to check is the throttle body heater hoses these can perish behind the intake manifolds where they are hard to see.

thanks for that I went and saw them and it has to go back to them. i missed the appointment but one of the mechanics there has made time to suit my late hours and lets hope all will go ok then.

Thanks for the input its booked in for friday. I feel a bit vunerable to these guys, reputation or not.My past experiance with cars in their care has not been good over the years.