keen

Thankyou Glenn.

I'm just about to replace the glove around the auto selector stick but are unsure about the removal of the knob. its not the "T" one its just a knob.I thought it may just pull up like the manual one's but there is a button in the front of it so was concerned that there may be another way. any help please would be much appreciated

My wife drives the car and well this is strange but it went out and and it has stayed out. she has even got a warrant and it has not played up so I have left well alone. But thanks for the link that has gone into the favorites file for future operations. I had a quote of $600 from a auto electrician who has done quite a few and the price from the local BMW dealer was if I remember rightly about $250 dollars for the mat. Hope that helps Also in the link there was reference to another bimmer site so thanks for that too

Brilliant thank you very much I'll try it

Ive had one broken the left one anyone got one for sale or the pair would be OK

A dammed truck dropped some rocks from behind it and one bounced up and broke one of my light protectors does anyone have one or a pair to sell me? Its for a e30. the broken one was the left hand one. I suppose I should be thankful as the light did not break.

fuel system cleaner. what do you mean by that? are you talking about the fuel filter itself? will put in new plugs also to see if that remedies it. what about the switch below the throttle body could that have anything to do with it?

Is that the steering wheel spindle on the left hand side? this surely has been done solely for drifting.

I have a 318 87 m40 the car runs well. but if you blip the throttle the engine firstly lowers in revs before behaving as a blipped throttle should and gives a small amount of revs. the idle is about 600 revs as normal and the engine has no other problems that I'm aware of. If this was a small engine such as a chainsaw you would alter the low mixture till that behavior was gone so what do you do with a 4 stroke when the same thing happens?

Thanks guys yes the dealer did tell me that both were now being replaced as they had customers coming back at a later date with the light on again only to find that the box was showing a fault now so that was the reasoning for both being replaced to prevent the problem trying to explain to the customer something else had gone wrong.

Nice one I like it. But now you gonna die, I emailed it to her. ha ha ha.

Beauty thanks guys I have one of those sets of pliers and the local dealer has supplied the clips and the pad. Glen the BMW fault finder that the dealer used to locate the fault could not pinpoint the problem to the pad or the small box that has the contacts in it I was a little disappointed as I thought that they could pick up a higher resistance if the box was the problem .It seems that they blanket replace both of them to cover their tails. Good for them but costly for me. that is why I'm doing it myself. The light still goes out intermittently so I'm running with the pad being the more suspect that the box.

OK then maybe there is no link has someone changed the pad and can help with the exercise?

Has nobody run into this problem? I thought it was quite common

Is there someone that could suggest a link to the process of replacing the sensor mat? on a e46 2000 318

I suppose everyone likes their car different and thats a good thing as we are individuals, but to add to your experience I have just fitted new oem engine mounts to an E30 that is about 22 years old and done 200000kms would you not agree that the oems lasted pretty well? Do you think that the word used to describe them was a little harsh or are you saying that you expect the replacements you fitted to far outlast the ones made for the car?

I would like to thank everybody who tried to help me with this problem.I have found the culprit and completed a temporary repair till tomorrow.There was a crack in the rubber intake pipe after the AFM on the underside. just taking the pipe off and checking it for cracks did not show up the first time till I bent it hard into a "u" shape and found a perished crack in the pipe.This looked normal till it was stretched onto its mounts which opened it when the engine ran and caused the fault .All is running normally now so thank you all again.Keep up the good work .Ken

If it is an air leak, and I remove the oil dip stick should the revs stay the same or should they drop the revs, the same as when running normally?

Timing marks found and that looks OK so must be down to crank sensor or ECU anyone got either of those two at a reasonable price?

The cam belt is not a problem its not that long ago I replaced it about 20000kms but if its that I can manage putting in a new one now that you have taught how to David, but the ECU is another story how do you check that and also how would I check a crank sensor? would a static ohms test pick it up and how would I check the timing ? I have a strobe light where am I checking the marks?

Thanks for that the AFM is off another car that is working OK and made no difference so returned everything to the way it was The plugs that I took out all looked the same and again I used the ones from another car and that made no difference

I'm stuck I changed the engine mounts on my 88 e30 318 but now have a problem. this could be co-incidental as the was a hint of a problem before starting. The car runs rough and at idle it surges from around 200rpm to between 1200 to 1500 then drops back again after running for a while it will try to run at this very slow idle (200) and can do so for about 30 seconds at normal road speed (100) it has a fine miss intermittent very similar to a plug breaking down (only way to describe it) then as you approach a stop it snuffs out. if you try to rev it to keep it running it struggles, again its like a race cam has been fitted and its hunting then if you give it small revs it struggles to get going but eventually gets there.What have I done? jacked the car up lifted the motor about 40mm and fitted new engine mounts and lowered the motor back down I have tried another idle valve and another AFM and new plugs I have checked the earth strap and cleaned both sides of the strap. When the motor was on the jack I double checked to see if any wires or hose or anything else was stretched but everything seemed OK.As I have said earlier this could be coincidental and it does appear to be worsening. Is it likely to be something like a crank sensor going or a sticking injector or the ECU some help here I would be very grateful thanks Ken some more info the car is manual and nz new no A/C just basic model any more info needed just ask

Hey thank you for that. I understand perfectly where you are coming from I have written details talking of the rod length and they are way smaller than mine. and the last thing I want is to destroke it. But I needed to know where they are coming from so I'm talking the same numbers as them, thanks again.

thanks for that information there are dated decals on the loom that have 1995 on them and as the motor is now stripped right down the rods are m44's if you go by the pictures in the metric mechanic. And the weight is in line with that, as the m42's are heavier and look different. that was the reason for the question. is there any more info on the measurement of the rod length? where is that measurement taken from?

Can someone help please? I have an engine from a e36ti chassis no au94947 is the engine m42 or m44 and when measuring the con rod for length is the measurement from top to bottom of complete rod or from center to center of the holes?