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Everything posted by keen
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Well got down into the pit jacked up the car blocked it up under the chassis undid the 2 bolts at the rubber bushing end then removed the nut and washer from the antiroll bar lifted the bonnet and reached down with extension handles and removed the nut holding the arm to the chassis then used a tool for removing tapered joints (fork like) and the hole suspension arm dropped off no big deal there.Now I will get an engineer to press the new outer joints in and then refit the whole arm.Not a big job as I had thought.I got the arm out in under 1/2 an hour
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You could also check the switch under the rubber boot at the gear lever. on top of the lever support arm.they are prone to fail.As has mine.
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I rang BM Warehouse and they have sent overnight the two outer ball joints new for $58 plus gst so will get the old ones pressed out and the new ones fitted. I think that I can do this so will keep you posted.If anyone else has done this I would be grateful for any advise and pitfalls I might fall into. Or pictures that you know of that might help.
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Thanks for that guys it is the outer joint that has failed. Does that mean that the inner should be done as well or is that not necessary?And should the large rubber one at the inner end also be replaced?
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My daughters car has failed a warrant on the lower suspension arm pivot being worn, on both sides left and right.Can you get new joints? and is it an easy job to replace them? what sort of cost is involved? Or do you need a complete new arm?how much for those? or would a second hand one be OK. what sort of money here. This is for a fl e30.
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If the head gasket has let water into the cylinder and the plugs were removed and the car turned over a few times some oil put down the cylinder and then plugs replaced would you be able to limp home? the car ran well before. but it has been sitting and that is how the gasket problem was noticed.
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Hi there I can't find your number but if you can call me on 063267338 I'm sure we can sort something out. or put your number up here and I will call you, preferably a land line I have a son that lives in masdon point and he is coming to stay at queens bithday he may be able to take it up there for you. Ken
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This is the factory rubber one Im not good at adding photos but will try for you.
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Hi there what type do you want. I have a heckspoiler which is the little one. Ken
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Anyone know the connections from the ecu plug such as pin 4 maybe to oxy sensor and so on.and the connections for the e36 compact I need to know how much they differ.
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Does it have headlight washers? thats usually the reason they have another tank for them only But I could be corrected.
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Some more things to watch are the sump bulge on the e30 m42 is at the opposite end on the e36 so you will need a sump from an e30 and not too sure that it will bolt straight on, also the loom and ecu on the e36 is on the left hand side and you will have to make room for that as the e30's is on the right and there is not a lot of room there for it you may have to cut the firewall to put it in.You would have to spend some more dollars to get it above 170bhp as that is about its best unless you are talking bolt on superchargers or turbos or big changes in pistons, cams to get it up above that .
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m40 engine can someone explain the hose from the top of the heater ou
keen replied to keen's topic in Maintenance
The car is not going to be used in the race series.I feel that it is in very good condition and I am looking at going down the road of trying to improve small things and fit bits to it that are BMW from upspect cars and maybe taking out things that are not to its benefit here.If I can get some more info from people here then I would be happy to pass on any visible improvement but it must be an improvement or I don't see the point in carrying out the exercise -
m40 engine can someone explain the hose from the top of the heater ou
keen replied to keen's topic in Maintenance
Good thanks. It appears from the diagram that the other end on the side of the block is returned into a hose going into the block can you recommended any type of cap that maybe you or someone else has used to change this operation over or the cheapest or best method recommended to carry out the change over? -
Can someone explain the small hose coming off the block at the rear of the engine above the heater hose? can someone show me a diagram of that area only? Is this a heating device for the throttlebody for cars in a very cold climate to prevent ice up? would the performance of the intake be improved if it was blocked off? Leaving normal cold air going to the intake not being heated? and is the inlet on the otherside of the throttlebody coming from the cam cover the breather and could that be blocked off also and the pipe fed to a filtered collector bottle elsewhere? preventing the throttlebody from being dirtied by the fumes coming from the cam cover? and could I then use a throttlebody cleaner to get the last bit of performance from air going through a clean area to the block?
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Thanks for that It looks bad. Transmission guy says that it needs a rebuild and now I'm looking for a replacement. Anyone got a box with 5hp18 on the tag? I would be interested.
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Thanks for the reminders have checked fluid levels and for leaks the car has a good service record by dealers but as its getting old now I don't want to go there any more.They are a bit expensive especially as you can get a complete car for around $5000 now and take the part you want and sell off the rest to defray costs.Brent thanks for the manual idea but its the wifes car she loves it the way it is for around town and her personal use. I wouldn't get dinner if I changed it over.
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My wife's auto when put into drive the car has lost all power to the wheels it won't work in any gear position and the words "trans fault refer to manual" come up on the dash the car is a 1990 e34 525. it had a trans problem about 2 years ago and Jeff Grey put another auto computer into the car this fault is slightly different to the last fault but to me it seems similar I would not like to have to put another one of these things in as they cost around $2500. Has anyone got any ideas that could help? and if its the box does anyone have a good cheap one for sale?
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if you put the z3 lever in it will need bending a little first to put it in the same position as the present one.I got a kit from Bavarian motors which is a piece fitted to the lower part of the lever and it does the same job.but if you do the change over don't forget to fit a new shift arm bushing and a shift handle ball cup bushing they are usually worn,and they improve the throw as well.
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Hi there Take the car into Brian Bates he took the camper off mine after it was lowered and the car was no where near as twitchy as before and handles really well. If you find a nit picker for your warrant watch out as you are legally only supposed to go up 2 sizes in wheel size from standard.Good luck.
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thanks for the advice I'll get some prices and see how we go
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I need new rotors and pads for my sons e34 535. he is asking if its worth puting on cross drilled with some good all round pads any one know of some good prices? And would some EBC pads be the go?any help would be welcome.
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I need to know before tomorrow it depends on weather i take the day off or not.Its too late to get a classic mag now in time.
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Does anyone know the start times of the stages 27, 28, 29,30, 31 on thursday 26th?