*Glenn*

Yes I know... you keep threatening to come round and meet me and show me your car... whens that going to happen ??

Personally I'd go manual. Your choice though.. not many manual 330Ci's around Keep a look out for a 328 Ci or 330 Ci Auto if thats what you want. They would be the only choices I would look at in a E46. Manual 328's are around... and dont even think about a repaint. Unless you do a professional strip on the car , you are going to devalue it by about half, because it wont ever be right.

This post should be in the Want To Buy.. and I cant change it

Try this http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=16701

It could be the pressure regulator..get a plumber to do it or do it yourself..they arent expensive or fit an accumulator which is what I had to do..were on tanks with quite a high pressure pump with special plumbing

I should have done this when I did my original conversion

Check all the fuses with a test light or multimeter

Some links with good material : http://www.metricmechanic.com/pdfs/metric-...ial-booklet.pdf http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/revs.html http://mgt_sport.drivehq.com/index.htm http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/...check_valve.htm Note: If anyone has some good links to add, PM me with them and I'll add them to this list so that they are all in the same place.

I have saved all these links now Martyn... I'll post up a link thread in my project as it proceeds

I might be sticking to the 3.64:1 at the moment...havent really decided.. more research needed

Thanks Dave

Which link ??

What flywheel did you use Tony.. I thought you were still running dual mass

Have you tried reinitialising the key ?

I got the Brembo rotors from B&T $130 + Gst each. Felt the same didnt get any fade or overheating problems. Their part number was 09.5390.77. They werent drilled though...just slotted I dont think the 6 speed would fit... issues with the drive tunnel I'm told. I'm just going to fit a S5D 250 G. The cars a bit lighter than a sedan, so I'm sure it'll do the job. Check out my new project thread.

My car had issues though Graham. One of them was me...inexperience on a race track...first time for me. Once I had things sorted my problems were... Sick auto trans... with unpredictable changes...especially in the twisties. I didnt know half the time what gear the car was in. I was using manual select, however it wouldnt change when I wanted it to and sometimes changed down half way through a friggen corner. It also kept hitting the rev limiter, dropping power, then changing up... I think that would account for the black puff of smoke you were seeing when it was changing up a gear...it just kept hitting the rev limiter before it would change up to the next gear even though I had selected a higher gear. Anyway its "3 pedal" time and LSD... next time I'll have a bit more fun and wont need to drive so conservitavely. It was quite scarey with cars around you in the twisty bits, not knowing or being able to predict what the car was going to do. It finally died (trans) and I ended up going home in limp mode.

Most of you know I stuffed my already sick auto trans on Friday. Well now is the time to go "3 Pedals" I'm going to document the whole process along with all the necessary pictures. I'll also post up all my costs for the project & document the hours necessary to do the complete conversion I'm sure most of you know my car 1997 E36 318Ti Mtech with M52B28 engine For those who dont...read this : http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=8117 My project will include: Removal of old trans, driveshaft, oil cooler & pipe work, computer & wiring harness, pedal box etc. Installing UUC flywheel, M5 clutch plate with M3 pressure plate, gearbox installation (S5D 250G), linkages with Z3 1.9 short shifter, driveshaft, wiring mods for reverse lights & starter, pedal box, clutch cylinders & pipework. Flywheel & clutch info: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ I will also be installing a medium case LSD If anyone thinks I have left anything out... let me know, I'm starting the project this week. Buying the conversion kit of Ray @ HELLBM and ordering the flywheel kit tomorrow from the States BTW: I'll be doing this probably a bit different to others that have done this. I'm going to drop engine, trans and front cross member out because I have the right gear to do so, and it makes the whole job so much easier to do properly.....more to follow

I'm not convinced that the M50 manifold is the way to go though after doing quite alot of research. I like the torque the M52B28 produces. So I'm going down another track which I'm posting under projects. I'm going to reduce the wasted energy the mass flywheel obsorbes. Doing the manual conversion on my car, I'm going to install the UUC flywheel with appropriate clutch assembly. The lighter flywheel allows the engine to spin up faster, producing better road acceloration. Going the M50 manifold might give slightly better top end HP, however engine torque and reducing the wasted energy that the mass flywheel absorbes, I feel will give me better driveability gains. Will have to see what the results are like. Have a read of this: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ Go to BMW, lightened flywheels, How a lightened flywheel works. Alot of good info on this website

What was the charge rate ??? Should be around 14volts

I cant send you the TIS instruction from my laptop here at home

Once you get the lock motor off the top, it just clips on, you should then be able to manually open the door if the lock motor is faulty. If not its the lock that has broken

You need to remove the central lock motor off the top of the door lock inside the door panel towards the rear of the car. Its a little black box on top of the lock with a wiring harness clipped into it. Bit hard to explain on here though.

They performed well yesterday at track day... I fitted them last Wednesday and did about 100km before track day. I'm using Brembo rotors & OEM pads... definately no fade, shudder or any other issues. I'm happy with them. After yesterday I'm going 3pedals now Manual select auto on a track does not work... I new it was coming though

Its different

Its the oil level sensor in the sump and yes its a $400-500 job. Leave it till your next service if you want when the oil needs to be drained. The yellow oil light is level.. the red oil light is pressure. Give me a ring if your unsure 021921377