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Everything posted by *Glenn*
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No... its the switch on the gearlever or gearbox that inhibits starting in gear and also works the reverse light switch
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If you have to wriggle the gear lever to start it I would say the inhibitor switch is faulty. Diesel turbos should have oil changes every 5,000km... non turbo 10,000km with a new filter every time
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How to upgrade a pre-fl e36 to use fl grills?
*Glenn* replied to curryinahurry's topic in Want to buy
I got F/L front panel from European Auto spares in Ryan Place Manukau. Was $170 from memory and cost $100 to paint Edit: They also do the kidney grills as well, but make sure you get the OEM ones off them if they have them in stock....the after market ones are sh*t...the retaining clips break, if not get the OEM ones. You wont need any other parts. -
E39 I spose.... the backing plate design is not the best. They get trapped in the cover which protects the ABS chopper ring and ABS speed sensor. No real solution except to take them out and try and avoid loose metal roads
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Lion Red....goes with everything
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It's more likely to be the sump gasket than the crank seal. Take the lower bell housing cover off and get a small mirror and see if the oil is running down from the seal. If it isn't it will be the sump gasket and I've covered this topic many times before. You dont fit a sump gasket (cork one) Someone might be able to look up the thread I did this in. I should do a thread about this and sticky it.
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Whats next ??? or is it a secret ??
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Would you like me to post a recipe in your post as well ?? Would that make you feel better ??
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It needs to be checked, tollerances are minimal, every dual mass we have checked has been knackered. If you take short cuts, you will have problems.... clutch judder. Do it right with new OEM parts or go UUC alloy flywheel & their OEM matched clutch kit.. About $1800 landed in NZ... owner would need to purchase this himself . I'm not going to give a consumers guarantee on it. We have fitted two with pleasing results on a 323 & 328
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Flywheel $1,974.10 (X Germany) Clutch kit $798.40 Spigott bearing $18.oo Labour approx 5hrs @75.00 All plus Gst
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You'll need a flywheel as well... about $4000 all up or go UUC clutch and flywheel kit from the USA http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ give me your chassis # and I'll price up OEM for you
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We have been told by Continental cars you cant do it. Could be worth trying them again though
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Common problem...the loader motors fail and jams the stacker. You will need to send the stacker for repair. Contact Max Electronics in St Leonards Road Mt Eden...Ph. (09) 6385252
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Set of Momo 5 X 112 17" X 8" mags and near new Ventus HR11 255/45/17 tyres These came off a Merc $1500 The Nissan mags are brand new of a 2005 Xtrail T30 5 X 114 stud pattern 16" X 6.5" $800
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TY... I was typing in a hurry Sir...didn't do my spell check
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I only said it because I think everyone has exhausted that topic and it anly starts arguments. The OP was a good read though. Anyway since I am being blamed for starting this I thought I would share a great, easy BBQ steak marinade for all the BBQ boys. I-2 KG of prime rump steak (1" thick at least) 1 cup of watties tomatoe sauce 1 cup of worshestersire sauce (I make my own) 1/4 cup of garlic & chilli sauce 2 large lemons (squeesed) juice only 4 cloves of garlic (finely chopped) I large spanish onion (finely chopped) 1/4 teaspoon of salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 level teaspoon of baking soda I use rump steak at least an inch thick...dont use thin steak for this Combine all ingredients (not the steak) in a solid plastic bag except the baking soda, mix and make sure you have your steak all ready to go into the bag. Add the baking soda, give it a quick stir, add the steak, seal the bag and shake or roll the bag to distribute the marinade. The baking soda foams up and makes the marinade work and the lemon juice tenderises the steak. Leave in the fridge for 3-4 hrs. Give it a shake or roll about every hour or so. Take out the steak and wipe the bits of garlic & onion off with a knife..... BBQ to your liking.... ENJOY
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Not again......please....this has been done to death Start a cooking recipe thread instead
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If the engine is running and it stays on while driving....alternator not charging
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Before you do anything else...get it scanned first by someone who knows what they are doing... the person checking it should also have a brain....it does help
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It may not be that. But if thats all you did or touched its likely its not quite right. 2 or 3 teeth and you'd be crying. Best check that its right and go from there. Another thing to check for is your crankshaft position sensor wiring, make sure its in its plastic holder accross the front of the motor, or the waterpump pulley will end up cutting through it. If the timing is right, do a compression test. I hope no one turned the motor or camshaft with the belt off.
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After putting the cambelt on..did you wind the motor over twice by hand and recheck to see if the timing marks line up ?? One tooth out will give you that problem
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Have a great day Cain From Glenn & the Team
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Yes I understand the circuit diagram in Navcoder....our multiplexer and diagnostic scanners are the same as well + & - and link to ibus
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So long as its semi synthetic 10w40 it should be fine