*Glenn*

Welcome to our forum Cammy A 318TI M3 ???? I dont think so. You might find its just got a M3 badge on it . Or do you have two cars ??? Cheers Glenn

Sorry Dave , thats not right. Motronic only controls ignition and injection timing. The reason the cam pulley is slotted like that is to get the valve timing correct. It allows for variation in belts and head height ( after planning ) To do it correctly you need 2 tools. A locating pin for the flywheel to lock it at TDC and a camshaft profile set tool to align the camshaft in the correct valve timing position ( firing No1 cylinder ) In the Haines manual it gives you the measurements to make these tools and how to use them to set it up. Try borrowing them or get someone to do it for you. If you get this 100% right it will idle properly and perform correctly. You can try "hit & miss"... but it wont be right. Buy the book if you are doing it...or research it. If you get the cam timing wrong buy a couple of teeth you will do serious damage to your engine. You need to fit these tools, then adjust the timing belt tension. Remove the tools, wind the engine over by hand 2 X and recheck position & belt tension before complete assembly. These tools are needed on nearly all BMW motors wether they be belt or chain driven. There are several different variations depending on what motor you are working on. Just a warning: If you are not sure, dont have the instructions, and dont have the skills or the right gear.... you will cock it up. Cheers Glenn Just to add. Dave you should get these tools. Correct valve timing=HP gains. I can get these made up for you

Where can I buy one of those "eagles" Kerry ??

Just take the rocker cover off and see how many rocker arms are broken and check the camshaft pedestal's for cracks around where the headbolts are.....where the rocker shafts mount. If you bring the engine up onto top dead centre, then back off 30-40 degrees you can turn the cam and check valve clearances. If you have huge clearances, that valve is bent. If the valve is actually broken, the head is most likely knackered.

Making up acceptable (safe) adaptors wont be cheap and will give you more offset & geometry hassles. The adaptors need to bolt onto the hubs and studs need to be fitted for the wheels to be legal. Thats going to cost alot to get machined up X 4. And it all has to be hubcentric. I dont think 14mm thickness (even using steel) will be enough to do this. Have you thought of E36 front struts and 318TI rear axle flanges. In effect...a 5 lugg conversion.

I'm just going to sit this one out........and smile ( controlling the laughter ) Maybe the race guys could use pewter or tin instead of lead weight and put it in their tanks and get all the claimed HP & fuel gains ?? While I'm sitting here smiling.....I could dream up ways of selling "Bullshit"

Depends who the insurance company is...some do....some dont

Has anyone got a 292:1 or a 308:1 diff for a E36 ??? Open or LSD Cheers Glenn

Yes I've got one here out of a M535 done only 89,000miles, this can be confirmed. This is the 10:1 compression motor.

They may well be covered, I can check with them while your here

I just need the knackered front ones to keep thecar on wheels The bilsteins ( full set ) are $500

Hi Adam Have researched your problem with the camber settings I can help you with this Give me a call (09)2722546 Cheers Glenn

Ring me Cheers Glenn Ph (09) 2722546

If your in Auckland...bring it in and I'll check it for you....please ring first though

Keens car is an E46....quite alot different to an E36

You cant buy the bits seperately. You will need new regulators. Plastic wheels are at the top & bottom of the regulator.

The E46 window regulator plastic wheels break and the cable gets tangled. You'll probably need 2 regulators. And yes it is a common problem

You might find its leaking from the oil filter remote housing gasket. How thoroughly did you check it ??

That wasn't the intention of my statement. They are just constructed so differently, you would spend a fortune fitting the F/L bumpers onto a pre F/L. Not an economic proposition. Both vehicles are unique and good examples of both cars are a pleasure to observe. Maybe I shouldn't have used the mutton/ lamb (actually I like both)

Sell pre facelift & buy facelift....end of story Its like trying to turn mutton into lamb

Ring Wayne Frost at EFI TECH in Auckland Dont have the number here at home though Can give it to you tomorrow though

BTW I've had a few PM's about this It's not the money or lack of interest I own a small lifestyle block, a business which is very busy, property overseas, a wife and family and a life Its all to do with "time" What I dont have is 40hr days and 7 day weekends or the room to keep it on hold for a while

I'll call you today

Its normaly the power steering hoses that leak. However if it is the pump, they can be repaired, cheaper to go second hand though Sump gaskets I've covered before. You need to support the engine and lower the cross member and steering rack. Remove the sump and remove all the old gasket material from the block and sump.Thoroughly clean inside the block and thoroughly clean the sump. We spray white spirits into the block to stop any oil dripping down. DO NOT use the new cork gaskets that they supply now. They crack through the bolt holes. We use grey windscreen Eurothane sealant ( not silicon ) its available from Panel Beating Supplies Ltd. When every thing is spotlessly clean, smear a thin layer on the block surface and sump surface first. Then run two continuous beads of sealant about 2-3mm thick around the sump, one each side of the bolt holes. You must do this quickly before the eurothane starts curing. Fit the sump and lightly tighten. Allow at least half an hour, then tighten. Done properly this will never leak.......DO NOT USE ANY GASKET....its not necessary. Later you trim off any excess with a knife or razor blade. This Eurothane sealant will not seal on an oily surface. You must clean all surfaces properly with white spirits. We use it alot for many different applications and on many different makes of cars. Its available in about 4 colours. We use grey & black. It doesnt have a very good shelf life once opened though. Hope this helps Any questions...you can always ring me Cheers Glenn