*Glenn*

Welcome back.......where ya been ??? Hiding or jail ???

Check out "My E30 335cc" project thread in Projects Due to other commitments I am selling this project. Just don't have time or the room to put it on hold.

Due to other time consuming commitments, this project is now for sale Will sell complete with the 316 and the mock up car or seperately. Selling with everything I have so far M30 motor is a M535 10:1 compression motor done 89,000 miles ( can be confirmed ) E28 Getrag 260 gearbox and driveshaft E34 sump, oil pump, engine brackets, power steering pump, alternator, front pulley, ignition trigger etc Engine brackets all profile cut, not welded up yet Will sell complete (both cars) for $7,000 Or sell mock up car with M30 and everthing else for $2,000

Selling this car now 1990 face lift 3 owners NZ new 210,000km Manual, air con, manual steering, custom sports seats Alarmed with 2 remotes and keys Have fitted fog lights and tail lights painted red now. Black kidney grills Recent cambelt, radiator, water pump, cam kit Sports exhaust...sounds good and not loud New clutch Z3 short shifter (genuine) New battery New starter Near new Pirelli tyres Lowered with king springs and new shocks 5 years ago (172,000km) Tow bar removed but is available with car (with fitting instructions) I have been servicing this car for 5 years now and it runs better than most 318's Ive driven $5000..... No offers and no trades I can provede receipts for $13,800 worth of repairs & maintanence carried out over the past 5yrs I can fax copies on request if need be Cheers Glenn

Front and rear Bilstein set for E30 $500 This is on exchange basis. I would need your old shocks even if they are knackered

Call in next week and I'll have a look for you. Please phone me first 2722546 Common problems are : Rocker cover gasket Front crank seal Oil filter remote housing gasket & "O" rings Sump gasket

I have one

You a corrected !! sorry you are wrong. M40 is belt driven. M10 is chain driven M40 cambelts must be replaced every 40,000km, M20 every 60,000km or 5 years which ever occurs first $400- $500 is about right dependant on what is required. Cambelt Water pump Idler rollers Tensioner Rocker cover gasket Coolant + Labour & GST Could also need distributor cap & rotor too

Thats called a duo valve. Take it off and have alook inside the ports where the hoses go on. The diaphrams are probably collapsed. Replace if they are collapsed and you should be fine.

NZ$1,000 Check out the link I posted, you can email or phone them...great guys and really helpfull

(1) Quite often people dont get this right, and you need to do both keys at the same time, one after another. If the key is knackered, Dealer only, its micro chipped. (2) Have you got an English Manual for the car ? Its all explained in there. Did you try setting your seat memory. Adjust your mirrors first, then seat position and save in position (1)

Bavarian Motors Ph. 4445312 Ask for Ernst

Gavin Bellars @ High Velocity Ph. (09) 4445312 Give him a call Ian

Chris @ Suspension Tech in East Tamaki shortens shocks Ph. (09)2731232 or 0272145325

Before you start this project Adam, these are some of the things you must research & consider. First research it and see what others have done before (I like to be different) Auto is harder because the bell housings are bigger....reduces all clearances Clearances are the major factor Using stock motors the issues are: bell housing, brake booster, cross member, steering rack, radiator, airflow meter and distributor cap clearances You will need to make up engine mounts Modify driveshaft and gearchange Change diff ratio Modify cooling system.. no viscous fan ( no room ) Use E28 radiator- modify for mounts I'm doing this: 635 10:1 comp ratio motor E28 lightened flywheel E34 getrag 5 speed LSD .. probably a 3.64:1 E34 M60 V8 hydraulic brake system..works off p/steer pump (130bar) with accumulator & pressure regulator No distributor.. "Link" G3 ignition only, 60-2 trigger system Coil over, wasted spark ignition (e36 coils) I'm going to run carburettors with custom airbox & CAI Extractor exhaust system (custom) Custom, encaptured engine mount brackets(my design) with E39 mounts E30 engine oil cooler with custom lines Diode switched electric cooling fan (stock) running dual high/low switches 80' low speed 90' high speed Complete refresh of engine, port & polish, blueprinted intakes, cam, balance Then theres the suspension and brakes to consider as well. I'm going 5 stud with E36 front struts (coil over)& adjustable top mounts, E30 rear sub frame with E36 318TI flanges & w/bearings. Standard vented E30 rear brakes with E46 330 front rotors & callipers. All new eurothane front and rear bushes & HD sway bars. This list might put you off, however thats what you need to consider before you start Personaly, I wouldnt use the M30 2.5. You would be better off sticking to the M20 2.5 and refresh the motor. It would cost less. Remember the M30 weighs alot more. My project car is an E30 316 therefore my gains are going to be an extra 1900cc with the mods I'm expecting to get the 218hp engine up to around the 250+ mark So far Ive spent more than 100hrs getting sorted to mock up stage in a deregistered E30 325 shell. Once I'm happy with the mock up it all goes into the 316 for final check. Then out for the engine rebuild and then the final fitting. Then its on to suspension, brakes, mags & tyres,exhaust and over to Gavin @ High Velocity to get dyno'd Hope this all helps with your decission Cheers Glenn

Have a great day Alex

Have a great day Martyn

Have you considered "Link" ?? http://www.linkecu.com/ Cheers Glenn

+1 See Dave

Thanks Brett BTW the reasonable price was "FREE" and so was the advice When you get approached by nice people who need help, and the right attitude, its great to help them out. I get alot of arseholes coming in here "do it now" "do it cheap".........my answer.... fark off Glad I could help you out there Brett Cheers Glenn

Try a wheel alignment first by someone who knows what they are doing ( camber is adjustable, but limited). Try that and see if its ok. You might still have to tweak the camber switch linkage in the right dirrection to sort it though. We got involved with this about 2 yrs ago, but I've forgotten exactly what we did. But I'm sure the car we did it on had the hydraulic shocks removed. We just had to get the warning signal stable

I saw that in TIS.....I would never reuse old oil, how friggen silly is that. $850 was a "little" over the top. And half the time most dont Scan and clear adaptions because they dont have the equipment. To do it properly, its not a "5min" job and you need to let it drain with the filter off for at least an hour to allow the torque convertor to drain. Done properly it will take approx 5 litres of fluid.

I stand corrected.....never seen one....never worked on one either Its not listed in my vehicle ID (BMW NZ) either and my version of ETK doesnt go back that far Getting back on topic though, we need to know exactly what Adams got. Big block M30 chain drive 2.5 or M20 cambelt 2.5. If its an M20 the jobs easier than the M30. If it is the M30 hes got a sh*t load of modifying to do. I know this because thats what I'm doing on the E30 335cc Project Cheers Glenn

Ripped off ???? Bullshit ....go do your maths The fluid is $28.46 a litre +GST, filter & pan gasket $100 (OE is is more expensive) + 1hr labour +gst If thats all it cost you, they used the wrong oil and didnt do it properly, thats if your trans is "longlife" If its not longlife $180 is still cheap, and they probably didnt use full synthetic, or remove the pan & filter. Did they just drain and refill with new oil ??? if so, thats not doing the job properly. You actually got what you paid for " a cheap job "

Thanks for the nice comments guys Its nice to get a thankyou.....not many people do these days.... Cheers Glenn