hotwire

Problem could be crap/contamination/water in fuel, you could try changing filter but unless you are familiar/aware of what you are doing - then probably best to get proffesionally checked - otherwise you will be chasing your tail.

As Josh (Hybrid) said - from my contact with BMW - expecting a new version within the next couple of months or so. Yep the 05 is current version but getting a little behind now. On the Audi note - I understand Audi/VW now offer Nav in NZ so mapping will be available. Have also heard that some VW/Audis run the same format disc as BMW so BMW disc works in them, works in the VW Phaeton - not sure what else. There are also two variants of BMW disc (I have both) the earlier as we are using is CD, the later (suiting E60/90 etc) is DVD & I understand there is more detail on that system, cant confirm as I haven't actually seen that one working. I also have a couple of Euro discs here & there seems more detail on them - pity they are of no use... Fen, PM me & I will let you know when update is released. Grant

Would say you are expecting miracles for glue to hold. Air bag - not an issue - just disconnect the battery first. Have had a door handle assy out before but cant remember exact procedure, do recall it being a little fiddlely but not rocket science. Really a case of removing the trim & lining & looking

Matt, 3 different FM systems in world: Jap - 76 - 90, US - run on odd numbers, & rest of world. So answer - NO As Jochen said: OG tuners - market specific NG - programmable to specific market

As per above for crank angle sensors on 325i's pre to F/L Yes M20 240/260 boxes interchange on all M20's. 240 normally in 320i, 260 in 323i, 325i Starters are the same throughout too.

Me too - have always just removed with rattle gun (E30's anyway) but obviously require spring compressors to refit

Cant remember them offhand but will confirm & let you know Cheers Grant

Yep - continue on.....

Have experience with supplying/fitting both Dynatron & Mongoose but not with AVS. The first two are well known & with good back up. I would say, being 5 star that AVS is probably as good but not sure on their back up.

Wheres Mr Lawrence aka Silver fox when he's needed....

Check left front & right rear(thats where sensors are), it is a closed loop from dash through each sensor & back to dash - a break in wire/plug connection (most common) or worn sensor will bring the light on. Can simply bridge each plug connection to bypass if they are a problem

Here's theirs... http://www.tau-sales.com/defaultMall/sitem...lets=5imzk6pgg1

I have bought in a couple from Tau in Japan - my E39 about 3 yrs ago & a Terrano for the boss a couple of years back (from auction), no problem either time - both as per description. Was around 5g each for import costs -shipping, export charges & MAF/ customs etc here + GST on total. YES taxes, taxes & more taxes & MAF charge for cleaning the vehicle - Ha bloody Ha - wouldn't mind paying that if they did.... Easy enough to do - I would again, just use a reputable site over there. Have heard of others having had problems with Tau but I certainly didn't. One thing - MAKE sure you get the rice papers (Jap dereg papers) as without these - you will never be able to register here. They normally send these separate via DHL or similar.

Great reading - thanks for posting. Manual gearbox cheap -30 pounds? yea right!! - obviously before the race series began

Shite!! Our scanner hookup is $40 +GST. As Glen said though - dont play -apart from obvious things (air leaks etc) you are only guessing. A scanner can eliminate a lot of headaches - the joys of a modern motorcar

Yea, agreed on the outer but would be interesting to compare the inners before & after. Having said that - if Hella do a version of then I am sure they will be no different between light wise

Stand to be corrected, but news to me... - last time I looked the mechanisms were different - otherwise I would simply have swapped winder mechanisms & not the whole thing. Also, you don't need to run an earth wire - the earth connects to the car at the top beside the motor. The power supply is as I said - already there, behind glovebox (plug & play). DONT pick up from the stereo. Also, to change as I described, as I said - you need to remove the lid, depending where your leak is - it could be due to rust in the lid/frame or blocked drain holes in each corner of frame - the seal around the edge of the lid is not intended to be water proof - water getting in should drain through the designated drains in the frame

You can do them yourself HERE And then the headlight beam performance will be sh*t!!

Yes, I was meaning leave the nut loosened but still on. Impact the strut mount - not the tie rod itself, use a heavish hammer for strong sharp impact & if possible use a drift to hit - to save damage from an inacurate swing. I have always removed them like this with no dramas.

Should have one Brent, if I have - you can have it - I will post it to you. I will check tomorrow

Without access to specialist tools - Use a FBH (..... big hammer) & with the nut loosened - a sharp "accurate" impact blow to the outer strut mount for the joint - or better - use a drift to hit to save possible damage from a wayward hit. They usually come without much hassle. If not - a bar to lever downwards while impacting it.

You can convert from manual to electric - I have done one before. A bit of effort & 2-3 hrs work - you need to remove & swap the whole rack assy - meaning removing lid, overhead console & trim/frame work of sunroof, swapping rack assy, mounting motor assy, run wire down pillar & connect to power source (already there). Reassemble in reverse.

Ollies description - couldn't have put better myself. This is the case if you are replacing bearings individually. You can also commonly buy as a complete hub/bearing assy - this is what I did - then just a case of removing & replacing hub as Ollie described but without changing the bearings. Check the differences in price between the two options.

No, The regulator is the mechanism that supports/ winds the window up & down - remove this to be able to remove the main glass

Hi & welcome to the site. Yep I can sort you with a NZ tuner for your car - only way to fix the problem successfully. Band expanders in these are CRAP!! With proper tuner - the reception is brilliant. Can also sort nav for you too if you wish - a great system in these cars as everyone who has will verify. PM me for details or 027 6146607 Cheers Grant