hotwire

Finally got around to fitting this today after having had for about a month. Genuine BMW universal garage door opener UGDO. Got it from the states - the guy reaconed all E38, 39, 46's were prewired for these units. I confirmed mine wasn't but looked on WDS & confirmed a simple 3 wire hook up (12v, earth & illumination) so purchased anyway. I suspect that because this unit uses RF output & my car is Jap origin using IR that these are not specced for Japan destined cars. Stand corrected on that though. Found out from Jochen, once I had received it that the US uses 315Mhz whereas we generally use 433Mhz so maybe a compatibility issue -BUGGER! He had apparently already been there & got caught out with it. Checked my garage remote on our frequency meter at work -318Mhz - yay in luck. Programmed it & confirmed it worked on the bench BEFORE I cut the hole. Bit of a gimmick but cool all the same

Are these sections not perforated ready for removal - I would have thought the body panels would be the same in all shells - ready to be removed depending on option spec of the car further down the production line?

Cam/timing belt the same thing, I would check it while engine is out. Depending on milage, probably replace cam belt, tensioner, water pump (needs cam belt off for that) - these all much easier when out. Check oil leaks before cleaning or you will never see where it has come from (different story when engine still in & running) I would suggest replacing all frost plugs while out - I have had to replace a few in place & some of them can be a real %$##^* to access in situ - easy when out. I would also replace rear main seal, standard clutch quite OK IMO Obviously repair any leaks you confirm while engine is out

Nah, different vehicle. I had an 89 320i Touring with plate SN4??? a while ago

By heater - I take it you mean the fan? If only one window is not working then they are unrelated. If fan, all windows & mirrors dont work, then they are related. If the latter is the case then I can point you in the direction. Otherwise see a sparky

Plate looks familiar - what car/model is it?

Stunning!!

To my knowledge Jap spec cars use this for IR remote control, other world market cars use RF frequency so dont have this. My Jap 99 car has the same but is auto dim so has no switch on it

Used to have the same problem years ago with our 1978 E12 - They (AMI) used to keep devaluing each year until I squealed loud enough. It was being compared to other "old" BMW's (as to be expected) - most of which by then were just shitters. I told them to find me a better example of the same car in the country - this car is MINT, low milage with complete history from leaving the factory. We agreed on 9k which has stood for probably the last 8 -10 yrs - maybe an overkill but its rarity condition wise stands it out from most others & makes it incomparible with. Its value is only what somebody perceives it to be from a collectors point of view & its insurance value is only of interest to me to cover it being written off, nicked or burnt. Goes to show though - Not all apples are the same!

Sensor mounts into the back of the disc assy, one mounting lug with an allen key, follow the lead down the strut, wiring unplugs from car loom. Easy replacement

sh*t Brent - not wrong about being stuffed - never seen a cam lobe that bad - did that engine have aaaany oil in it?

Hi, Yep, can help, as stated - nav unit requires replacement, radio can be reprogrammed to NZ. PM me for options Cheers Grant

Welcome Nick, yep, as said - there are a few oldie cars on here too - our E12 is only 4 yrs younger & from a similar mould. By the way - Im after a couple of trim bits for the E12 that you may be able to help with before you lose it to the knackers yard

Good luck with Euro - I was talking to Barry a couple of months back wanting the same, he had sold last set in known captivity the day before & wasn't expecting to be able to obtain any more, hense me getting from BMW. Situation may have changed since??

You can buy them new ex BMW. They retail at $240 odd each from memory (standard size)

Have only delt with them twice, once a damaged car, once an auction car -both times great to deal with, condition /damage true to description & pics. Looks like you have had the runaround with them though. Aston - what a waste!!

Q1 - Yes - Do you need one? - If so can help Q2 - NO - this is the pressure regulator which has the return line connected to it Q3 - Yes Q4 - Yes, but cant remember what off hand - will clarify for you Q5 - No - this is the feed in - see Q2 Q6 - In the exhaust front pipe - have you got that? Q7 - Not sure, but God loves a trier Does the 2.5 have the engine loom/ECU (computer) etc? You will obviously also need to wire the engine to the car

What colour wire did you use for ground?

Panels are secured with plastic mounting clip/plugs -two top, two bottom of the panel

Yep as said - definitely new, common problem - I have replaced several in customers cars over time

Yes definitely single hex socket. Best to heat nut itself to nearing red hot (but not the stud) & they will come easily. I try cold first & if too tight - use heat -done heaps this way & never had a problem

Emma -smartie arn't we:- Been a year or two since my fourth form German class. I now remember fragments of only - not that I ever learned a lot to forget. Stefan - yes welcome & like others -not sure on this spoiling an M3 but good luck with it

Down at starter end, otherwise find it in the engine- car loom plug by the fuse box.

Haven't got numbers handy, car is at work, me on holiday, definitely Motronic, would love to make a trip south but no - not planning on it. Give me your mail address & I will send more pics to you. Cheers Grant

Hi again. My E39 uses HB3 & HB4 bulbs - I used Hella packaged -Sylvania brand (Hella package bulbs using several different top brand maufacturers -Sylvania, Philips, Osram for a few) Thinking now - cant remember whether they are cool blue or ultra - both are similar in their slightly whiter/bluer light to the standard bulb, not a big difference though but certainly a little more effective over the standard. Still the same wattage, infact there is only one wattage available for these & anyway - very unwise to increase bulb wattage in a modern car with polycarbonate lenses let alone late BMW's with complex lighting controls. Mine have no hazing whatsoever nor did have & anyone who has driven the car at night has commented on the efficiency of the lights in it so to be a problem in others I would suggest probably indicates dirty/hazed lenses