hotwire

Usual curbing?? Outside of rims dont even look round:-

Depends what diff in there currently - 320i autos varied in diff ratios between years. Being pre facelift I suspect yours is a 3.64 (see tag on rear bolt) F/L's had 4.27 & 4.45 in autos Manuals were 3.43 ( slightly taller than the early autos 3.64 but only minimal) quite different than 4.45 though, have driven a manual with 4.45 & is quick off the mark but doing well over 3000rpm at 100k Depends what you are after

Sorry no, just thought they may have been the new look around the corner. No luck from that other guy on TM then?

David, Did you find the fourth Schnitzer?

If it goes without lights on then the supply is correct but the earth will be tapped into a tail light wire - should be into a brown (earth in all BMW & other Euro) wire

Dont get it - Ellipsoid with cut off are dip beam lights -as are fogs in Ellipsoid form - the cut off line is precisely that. Driving lights & high beam for that matter are in effect a spot light or varying degree of, cheap lamps are virtually uncontrolled beam (scattered light)

I can certainly vouch for fog in the mighty Waikato but your 9 months of the year is stretching the truth somewhat there . On the fog light issue, yes illegal, but bullshit as when do you define the bad weather line? Front fog lights (factory anyway) are a permanently dipped lamp that cast a knife like pattern of light immeadiately forward of the car - designed to cut underneath the fog & not "bounce" light back to the driver in foggy conditions. When set CORRECTLY, like dip beam, they DO NOT dazzle oncoming drivers, regardless of weather / light conditions, the bulbs are only 55w too - the same as dip beam, no brighter but a different pattern of light. Checking light output / glare on a beamsetter confirms this. Problems arise when wankers put an uncontrolled lamp in their place (effectively a driving lamp) be it these little eyeball type lamps or sealed beam inserts into spoilers because they so happen to fit the hole. These lamps DO dazzle & are illegal, it is up to the WOF guys to enforce but a lot dont. OR the lights are incorectly set. I see it all the time at work The law is if a lamp is fitted - it must work, & if it works - it must comply with regulations, just requires enforcement of this. Yes they may be unecessary in good weather but if operating correctly it is of no issue & hardly a hanging offence. As for rear fogs, these can be a pain in the butt when ingood weather as they use the same 21w bulb as the brakelights & although the light looks slightly different due to difference in lense pattern between the two, it can be confusing at first glance. I bet in most cases the drivers are oblivious as to even having them on - most people I come across at work aren't even aware that the car has rear fog/s.

Tui = Lion Red, not in my book - I drink Red, (along with others) but hate Tui

Luke, Cant remember M50 setup off hand but you have confirmed communication between gauge & sender but being a 2 wire setup the other wire should be earth - ultimately somewhere, is it a brown wire? Try bridging the 2 wires in the plug - it should also make the gauge go high confirming the circuit to earth OK. Make sure you get the gauge wiring & not the engine management sensor. Has it ever worked properly since the transplant or is this a problem on the list to solve? E.G. if gauge doesn't read with wires bridged, where does the second wire go to - since the original system was a single wire? Airlock will cause engine to overheat not under but may not show on the gauge as if the sender has no water behind it - it will not read. Is there a bleed screw around the thermostat area? Cheers Grant

Know which car to buy now huh

Love black, love the touring but have to that one I have to say YUK!

Nothing out of the ordinary as far as the job goes (if competent) only different tools that I can think of off hand is a torx socket for the head studs. If not confident then probably best left to someone who is.

Temp gauge sender should be a single wire - sounds like you have the engine management sensor. They both mount in same place. To test - pull wire off sender & give a direct earth - gauge should rise to top, that being so, the sender is faulty. However if you need to bang the dash to get it to move from rest - as said this indicates a dash problem. If gauge moves then fails to rise above cold then possibly sender but is the engine getting up to temperature (thermostat jammed open)?

Less of the old at 40 thanks - only twice your age remember & believe me - the next 20 will fly by for you

Tools required: Torx sockets for bell housing bolts. apart from that just usual tools Nothing untoward if you have mechanical skills, remove bottom cover bolted to bell housing to expose torque converter bolts, rotate engine to expose each (3) & undo from flex plate. Remove exhaust front section Drop trans mount, lift front of engine until rear is against bulkhead to access top bell housing bolts from behind. Worst part is removing trans. Remove oil cooler lines. Pedal box: Easier to remove bolt & original brake pedal & fit replacements (rather than changing the whole assy) Mount the M/Cyl to box, punch out perferated hole in bulkhead, run clutch lines, mount reservior, FIT SPIGOT BEARING to crank, clutch assy, fit gearbox, drivehaft etc (recommend new clutch if the one you have is not near new), also recommend replacing extention housing bushes if they are at all worn (very common) before fitting box. With everything on hand -about a days work to complete conversion Flywheels are the same -320 -325

But, problem is it is much too loud. Advice on best way to quiet it down? The shop I went to thinks another res should do the trick. Want another opinion though if poss. Graeme, not surprised its loud - is in effect a straight thru system. Not much room for another resonator, you could remove that coby & fit a fluted type (same style) in place of - this would make a difference but not markedly. Because the rear is basically just a resonator too you will ideally require a free flow muffler in place of the coby orrr maybe a turbo charger<_<

Ditto. Some people are on a different planet!

Aint this a reality check. Another who has never met Jock but just having read the story - I admire your determination in life & hope you find that magic fix -you & your family certainly deserve it. Where is the justice in his world? All the best Grant

Main, E30's had them either front R/H side against bulkhead or R/H side in boot. I suspect all 325's were in the boot -have seen both German & African cars with them there. Stand to be corrected though.

Sounds like a S/A build car - check the ID plate under the bonnet - will tell if German or S/A build. I have two NZ new 325i's here - one original auto been converted to manual, the other factory manual, both German with battery in boot.

Quality & cheap? No such thing - like everything - get what you pay for! DIN55 or DIN55L -either or - cant remember which - is the correct battery. No such thing as a cheap one now as battery prices have gone up several times in the last few months

Maybe obvious question but is the switch adjusted correctly? Particually if this is all you have done since the lights were no go. Not sure on exact layout of switch on the pedal assy - never had to go there on an E39. Make sure that the switch is being compressed when pedal is released though. To confirm switch operating - use a volt meter or test light to confirm power switching on & off on one side with brake application - as previously mentioned. System on these cars a bit more complex - lights are controlled by the LKM unit - dont think there is a relay involved in the circuit

Very much doubt that fuse is of realivance to the clicking - would say that is an intermittent bad battery terminal connection - check for bad connection between inside of terminals & battery posts

I would ignore all the extremes of opinions posted here & if you are happy with the car you have in mind & it checks out OK then go for it. If car is as you describe then as already said earlier in this thread - it is priced about right. Brent (Ducatis) gave a good overall picture of things to watch/look for. As long as they have been previously & are correctly maintained - they are a great little car

Try cleaning the screen - may have a film on it. Are the blades free to slide in the arms clamps? Have you any additive in the washer fluid? A squirt of this can eliminate.