hotwire

ok well im going to get under there and check ive decided because if its a 3.9 or 4.1 i will buy it.

now the name plate with the numbers on it. Does it plainly tell me the ratio or do i need to know the last 3 numbers to match up to the list or something how does that work?

Name tag (lower left) has the ratio in straight forward read, probably need to clean up first to be able to read it

While I was connecing the 12V power and ground to my camera, I accidentally connected to the wrong spot and blew up the fuse for the audio/nav unit. I found the fuse and replaced it and it's working alright but I decided to get a power source from reverse light power rather than from nav unit.

Anyway, I connected everything and it was working perfect last night.

This morning, it didn't work again and after checking few things I managed to find the poor connection for camera's power. While I was reconnecting it I made a stupid mistake again and saw the electrical spark and it was the reverse light fuse that was blown up.

However the reverse light was still working. I don't understand why reverse light is still working while the fese was blown up and the camera wasn't working. After changing the fuse for the reverse light everything working alright again. But can anyone give me an explanation on why the reverse light is working while the fuse was blown up and the camera wasn't working?

All this car electrical staff are so fun!

Strange! Are you sure the fuse was infact blown? You said the lights were still going but also that you had already confirmed a bad connection for the camera -explaining it not working??

Pull the fuse out & check lights - you will then confirm the circuit

now next question what is the easier way to find out if its M40 ?

If its a facelift car it will be an M40 engine - looks like this...

Is it the one that goes to the red connector of nav unit?

And can i connect the camera to any ground wire? It seems that they work even when I connect the ground wire to the matal body of the car itself. So the ground must be just any place in the car where the electricity can flow.

Yes purple/white wire in red plug is switched power. Yes to connecting to ground wire as long as it is true earth (brown wire) or to car body

so the flange is different but thats not a big deal, as long as it bolts to the head, also what ollie said, what power gain am I lookin at by doin this?

Not sure you would notice difference, be negligible anyway

Exactly!? So what I don't understand is, yes, the lock is there, that doesn't connect to anything, and the CL is there, that doesn't connect to anything? Its as if someone has removed it, as it didnt fall off cause its not around.

But yes, thats one dilema. Second and more urgent is, how can I remove the metal part that holds the boot down to the lock? Don't want to cut it off as its in good knick, but will as a last resort, but will still mean I can't attach any other locking but in it as I won't be able to release?

I think that I need to get the key lock part working with the CL mechanism, and go from there yes? (As it should unlock the bit I need to get free???)

If the latch is locked - from memory you should be able to duplicate the locking actuator (where the linkage would connect to to release the lock) then push the button. Otherwise drill out the barrell & release that way.

I can supply replacement lock/key assy if you require.

In as username - bit of catching up to do I see!

hey all, just outta curiosity, will an exhaust manifold off a facelift e30 320i fit on my pre facelift e30 320i? Will it make any difference??

Cheers.

Yep will do, front pipe flange is 4 stud on Motronic whereas 3 stud on Ljet, but will bolt up to head OK

Thank you for that. I am hoping that the dealer will actually source one (I suspect he will just rip one out of the next BMW in his yard).

Re stacker - yes Apine but BMW specific & yes in the boot L/H side by the amplifier.

Re Tuner: To early to reprogramme (2000 onwards) PM Jochen - he usually has or can get the replacement Euro tuner to fit in place of Jap unit to match our frequency.

Now back to Done!

Classic car alright! - Have a real mint 78 car but 520i. Strange that Africa still buit the E12 well into the eighties when we had long had the E28.

thanks for that dude, i'll check it out today. how difficult will it be for me to convert form jetronic to motronic? i'm guessing its not as simple as replacing the ECU are there other parts i will need?

No more involved than that, Motronic use different manifolds, (you can leave exhaust though) engine loom, need to remove distributor & fit oil pump drive/blanking plate (from motronic engine) in place of. Dismantle front of engine, swap cam gear, water pumps, fit motronic distributor drive assy/ crank pully/crank angle sensor/timing cover/ AFM.

With engines out - a couple of hours work to change over

hey, i'm trying to accurately identify my bmw engine.

Originally my car was a 1985 323i, but the previous owner had to replace the engine and used an engine from a 325i. From what i can tell it is still running the jetronic ignition from the 2.3ltr, is this possible?? Obviously i cannot use the VIN on the car to determine engine specifics as that would relate to the original engine. What is the easiest way of identifying exactly what engine i have (year of production etc) other than the obvious M20B25

any help would be appreciated

Yes it is possible to convert L jet to motronic & vice versa (have done myself)

Engine ID - Look mid way down L/H side of block (under intake manifold) - has year of manufacture in casting.

Look on L/H (I think from memory) side along bottom of block (just above sump) there is a flat section in the casting with engine details imprinted within. If not on left then obviously check right

Hello, im new here and female. but don't hold that against me. I have reccently bought the best car ever however she seems to have a habit of locking me out.

It is a ruby-red 1988 318i and her name is ruby. She has a deadlock on her and then the central locking mechanism. Now, all was going swimingly until reccently when the deadlock would unlock but not the car. After much frustration and pleading with her to open her locks (oooh-eer!) she does, but not without a fight and the chance of the key snapping in the lock is greater everytime.

I now lock her through her boot, which is rather comical and i would like to fix her. I have had new keys cut and have sprayed crc in the barrel but all to no avail.

Has anybody else had this problem?

Does anybody have any solutions that are under $100?

Thankyou, from my boisterous car and me

xxxx

Were the new keys you had cut copied from a worn original or were they computer cut from the key number stampe in the original key? If just copied from a worn key you end up with the same problem.

When fitting a replacement barrell you can get a locksmith to rekey the barrell to suit your key - thus retaining one key to operate the car.

Can supply a barrell & key if you require

Best to go by car instruction, surely manufacturer has calculated ideal milage/interval. Doesnt specifically need dealer but you may want to start with clean sheet with appropriate vehicle service /service reset

Sharp alright! Yea did notice the stonechips - they do detract.

Yes definitely to angel eyes but be selective - some of those aftermarket E36 lamps look crap! Maybe get the rings to add inside existing lamps

Quite often when I indicate left it it doesnt show on the dash that my indicator green light is working and checked the back and the indicators dont work at all when this happens. Has anyone had a problem like this? Easy to fix?

I have a e36 318i 94.

Thanks

Both L/H indicators dont work or just rear when problem is present?

If you have some mechanical nouse then OK for DIY, straight forward but be methodical taking care of timing mark alignment & belt tension. If unsure of it's age then definitely water pump at the same.

Hi there, on my dash the light (0) flashes on and off, I am thinking it has something to do with the inhibtor switch but dont know and can not find the pic in my manuel.

Can anyone please help me as a bit worring that this is been flashing for awhile now.

Thanks in advance.

By "O" are you meaning a red light along the botton towards the right of the dash with an "O" & broken or solid lines around it?

If so it is one of the brake warning lights -handbake, fluid level or brake linings

Either way - nothing to do with inhibitor switch

Hi there,

I am after and inhibtor switch for my 89 e30 coupe. As the reverse lights do not come on when in reverse and also you can start the car in any gear. I have been advised from the person I bought it from that it has passed WOF when like this. I have also been told that it costs about $300 installed.

Can anyone help with thie. EG: will I still get a warrent with this condition.

Thanks

The inhibitor switch/ reverse light switch is in the base of the shifter lever assy, inhibitor probably been bypassed due to failure -hense starting in any position. A 1/2 hr job to change shifter over, 3/4 max - certainly not $300.

The unit is non servicable & yes should fail a WOF in that condition - A: dangerous to start in gear & B: reverse lights if fitted must operate.

I can supply a shifter assy $35 with a guide of fitting if required

PM or 027 6146607

Ratshit service -I would be having them on re the oil as well at least, & ask what they will do if the "knock" returns?

If they looked the same & seemed to screw on fine (without comparing thread pitch) then how were you to know it was wrong?

Hi & welcome.

As Yuen said - try cleaning, they can go smokey on the inside (particually Jap origin cars) The pre angel eye lamps are very easy to remove & dismantle, also buffing the outside to remove any dulling of the polycarbonate. A clear lens makes a BIG difference to light output.

When clean - these lights are very good.

Not sure what bulbs are in the early cars - my 99 had standard HB3 & HB4 bulbs which I changed to zenon ultra version HB3 & HB4 - still same bulb & wattage but a whiter/blue light

As for angel eyes - I got a set about 18 months ago from the states off Ebay (Taiwanese made CCFL type) These are just the rings in which you dismantle the lamp assy to fit them & wire the inverter to the existing park light wiring. This set has inverters that replicate the current draw of the standard park light bulb thus avoiding lamp failure prompt on the dash. Did have one inverter die recently but got a replacement directly from the manufacturers in Taiwan easy enough. Infact they sent me a whole replacement set of lights.

I'd like to build one for my race car - any of you electrical dudes out there know how to make one?

I'm guessing -

Use the existing oil pressure sender - work out what range it has (ohms) and what corresponds to what pressure.

Some transistory type thing that flicks a voltage to a budget tone generator and speaker thingee when it sees a certain resistance signal.

orrr.. buy one off the shelf from somewhere.

Andrew - just add an oil pressure sender (switch type, not guage one) into the system & use it to earth a buzzer.

I assume you are running a pressure guage? If so just tee in an extra sender as well or if you are still running oil light you can use that sender & put a diode in line to stop feedback. You can also buy adjustable pressure senders (better as you can set the pressure higher) so that you can alter switching pressure according to needs. Ign supply to a buzzer that will earth through switch until pressure is reached.

Mine is crap too & it took about 30 sec to load the speed test page!

497 down & 137 up Did a second test: 858 down & 137 up

??

Cam timing being out a tooth or more can alter engine operating temperature due to altering combustion characteristics.