hotwire

What about e39s. Some came with a apir of 8"subs in the rear tray. The flat section is there but the holes arent cut. It's one of my options but I'll be speaking to a certifier before blade touches metal

Are these sections not perforated ready for removal - I would have thought the body panels would be the same in all shells - ready to be removed depending on option spec of the car further down the production line?

Cam/timing belt the same thing, I would check it while engine is out. Depending on milage, probably replace cam belt, tensioner, water pump (needs cam belt off for that) - these all much easier when out.

Check oil leaks before cleaning or you will never see where it has come from (different story when engine still in & running)

I would suggest replacing all frost plugs while out - I have had to replace a few in place & some of them can be a real %$##^* to access in situ - easy when out.

I would also replace rear main seal, standard clutch quite OK IMO

Obviously repair any leaks you confirm while engine is out

Nah, different vehicle. I had an 89 320i Touring with plate SN4??? a while ago

By heater - I take it you mean the fan? If only one window is not working then they are unrelated. If fan, all windows & mirrors dont work, then they are related. If the latter is the case then I can point you in the direction. Otherwise see a sparky

please contact me.

Thanks

Plate looks familiar - what car/model is it?

Stunning!!

To my knowledge Jap spec cars use this for IR remote control, other world market cars use RF frequency so dont have this. My Jap 99 car has the same but is auto dim so has no switch on it

Used to have the same problem years ago with our 1978 E12 - They (AMI) used to keep devaluing each year until I squealed loud enough.

It was being compared to other "old" BMW's (as to be expected) - most of which by then were just shitters. I told them to find me a better example of the same car in the country - this car is MINT, low milage with complete history from leaving the factory. We agreed on 9k which has stood for probably the last 8 -10 yrs - maybe an overkill but its rarity condition wise stands it out from most others & makes it incomparible with.

Its value is only what somebody perceives it to be from a collectors point of view & its insurance value is only of interest to me to cover it being written off, nicked or burnt.

Goes to show though - Not all apples are the same!

Just had a read done on ABS and it came back with RL Speed Sensor faulty, I take it this is the Rear Left speed sensor, anyone know where this is located (wheel or axle) and what it looks like?

Sensor mounts into the back of the disc assy, one mounting lug with an allen key, follow the lead down the strut, wiring unplugs from car loom. Easy replacement

sh*t Brent - not wrong about being stuffed - never seen a cam lobe that bad - did that engine have aaaany oil in it?

A friend of mine has just purchased their first BMW, a 2003 530i, Japanese import. They want to change the radio/GPS system so that it can be used in New Zealand. Would this be possible without having to spend $6000 to have it done at a BMW dealer?

Thanks in advance!

Hi, Yep, can help, as stated - nav unit requires replacement, radio can be reprogrammed to NZ.

PM me for options

Cheers

Grant

Welcome Nick, yep, as said - there are a few oldie cars on here too - our E12 is only 4 yrs younger & from a similar mould.

By the way - Im after a couple of trim bits for the E12 that you may be able to help with before you lose it to the knackers yard

Good luck with Euro - I was talking to Barry a couple of months back wanting the same, he had sold last set in known captivity the day before & wasn't expecting to be able to obtain any more, hense me getting from BMW. Situation may have changed since??

You can buy them new ex BMW. They retail at $240 odd each from memory (standard size)

Lets just say I purchased about 12 cars from them. The last batch was a disaster. Two 98 Legacy Wagons that were in a "Running and Driving" status. A 00 VR4 and an Evo 6. The Evo was stolen even before it left Japan. Took me months to get money back. 00 Vr4's suspention was meant to be fixed but they just tried welding the steering arms to the hub which of course broke. The two legacy's had snapped cam belts and needed engine rebuilds.

They quite often lie about the damage on the cars. Some of the cars you see in the photos are not the cars you are getting.

Have only delt with them twice, once a damaged car, once an auction car -both times great to deal with, condition /damage true to description & pics.

Looks like you have had the runaround with them though.

Aston - what a waste!!

Q1 - Yes - Do you need one? - If so can help

Q2 - NO - this is the pressure regulator which has the return line connected to it

Q3 - Yes

Q4 - Yes, but cant remember what off hand - will clarify for you

Q5 - No - this is the feed in - see Q2

Q6 - In the exhaust front pipe - have you got that?

Q7 - Not sure, but God loves a trier

Does the 2.5 have the engine loom/ECU (computer) etc? You will obviously also need to wire the engine to the car

What colour wire did you use for ground?

Panels are secured with plastic mounting clip/plugs -two top, two bottom of the panel

Yep as said - definitely new, common problem - I have replaced several in customers cars over time

Yes definitely single hex socket.

Best to heat nut itself to nearing red hot (but not the stud) & they will come easily. I try cold first & if too tight - use heat -done heaps this way & never had a problem

Ahnung, mann!

Willkommen! Wo kommen Sie aus Deutschland?

Sehr nett projekt. Viel glueck.

Emma

Emma -smartie arn't we:- Been a year or two since my fourth form German class. I now remember fragments of only - not that I ever learned a lot to forget.

Stefan - yes welcome & like others -not sure on this spoiling an M3 but good luck with it

Is that off the back of the ignition barrel? im lost lol were is the starter loom?

cheers

Down at starter end, otherwise find it in the engine- car loom plug by the fuse box.

Haven't got numbers handy, car is at work, me on holiday, definitely Motronic, would love to make a trip south but no - not planning on it. Give me your mail address & I will send more pics to you.

Cheers

Grant

Cheers Grant. It's good to hear you've had success with cleaning the lights. Brand new they are great lights, and that shouldn't change other than possible plastic hazing (not a problem on our glass ones of course) or deterioration of the reflector surface. You brought up a good point, deteriorated wiring could be a cause but not likely, would be a last resort I suppose.

What brand/model are the cool blue bulbs you bought? I have always been against any halogen bulbs with any form of tint as it would reduce light output. So am quite interested to know what they are, are they 55w like normal ones?

Hi again. My E39 uses HB3 & HB4 bulbs - I used Hella packaged -Sylvania brand (Hella package bulbs using several different top brand maufacturers -Sylvania, Philips, Osram for a few) Thinking now - cant remember whether they are cool blue or ultra - both are similar in their slightly whiter/bluer light to the standard bulb, not a big difference though but certainly a little more effective over the standard.

Still the same wattage, infact there is only one wattage available for these & anyway - very unwise to increase bulb wattage in a modern car with polycarbonate lenses let alone late BMW's with complex lighting controls.

Mine have no hazing whatsoever nor did have & anyone who has driven the car at night has commented on the efficiency of the lights in it so to be a problem in others I would suggest probably indicates dirty/hazed lenses

AHA! No the fan does not work,i think you have solved it so its that simple you earth the black green wire?

cheers!

Yep that'll be it, yes you can do, by doing that you are just bypassing the overide but that wont matter at all

Cheers

Grant