hotwire

Hotwire - Due to me being an auto sparky!

Brent, Pics of rear seats, both are mint $75??

Cheers Grant

oops, posted two the same - see close up for true colour

There is also another circular plug under the intake manifold just ahead of the starter that is famous for making a bad connection, water gets into it and corrodes the contacts resulting in all sorts of electrical faults. I normally cut it out when I find problems with it and solder the wires together using heatshrink tube to waterproof the wires."

which plug is this? i can't have checked it as i don't know which one you mean

Do air flow meters normally give trouble?

As Will said - Plug is in front of the starter under the intake manifold - same type of round multi plug as on L/H side of firewall that connects engine wiring to car.

AFM's can fail although would seem coincidental if OK previously. Did you play with AFM settings? If so - could cause problem if not set correctly.

Check all vacuum hoses for leaks.

Is cam timing correct??

Once allen keys loosened it should ease out. Cant recall setup for sound mode though.

Brent, Have some from sedan in grey with dark grey diagonal stripes (near mint) - not sure if that is what you require??

Cheers Grant

Again get someone with a scanner to talk to it - may well give the answer. Doesnt need to be BMW specific - most sparkys/ mechanics should have a scanner to connect to it

Anything possible but would be a bit of a mish. Would say you would have issues with wiring as a non car would not be configured for whereas the airbag wiring would intergrate in the loom of the car with.

Allan, Bit suspect as to why an 02 car should have had these problems - is your car NZ new or ex Singapore? Had an 02 Saab fresh ex Singapore at work last week with bypassed heater tap, once reconnected the tap leaked, new unit was required.

Also with tape over the ducts - means that someone has had all that out before - highly suspicious - for what reason would someone go to that trouble - would seem to have no connection with a possible leaking heater/ tap if the system has been already bypassed?

As already said, easiest is to get any auto sparky/mechanic/dealer with scanner to confirm fault code -2 minuite job & eliminates guesswork/frustrasion. Apart from being a WOF requirement, it is far safer to know you have its protection if needed

Thanks for your suggestions , am going to try a couple of things today - yes I have a meter. I dont know where the starter solenoid is, so if someone can help point me to where that is that will help. Is there a way to check if the soleniod is faulty ?

The lights dont dim when the key is turned so it sound s like solenoid perhaps - are they prone to failure with no warning.? I doubt its the starter motor as they usually show some signs of problems before failing , but will test power to the starter motor.

I have since fully charge the battery to take that out of the the possibility list .

I have checked all the fuses, and there does not seem to be a fuse for the starter circuit -is that corect ?

Thanks

Grant

Solenoid is mounted on the starter, not prone to failure, more likely to be a power supply problem to it or if not then a fault in the starter (hense giving it a hit) - worn brushes can give no warning to a no go situation -which a hit can temporarily overcome. If not conversent then best to get an auto sparky to check for you. From memory this cicuit not fused.

oh - well its the push on wires im talking about and both are the same size???

which has made it harder - will post up the outcome, which with no doubt be a simple oversight

which will really rip me, but i guess tht wot happens to part timers

From memory one wire should be thicker than the other, take both off & try the thicker on each terminal (wont do any harm) but will only start (crank) on one - then reconnect the other

Hey guys im having a really pesky issue with my car, it hapens randomly about once a month and generally only lasts a second or two but the other day it became worse.

the abs warning light comes on and the car seems to slow down by itself as if its gently pulling the brakes on or the engine is dying..it some times flashes on and the car jerks as if you were jabing the brake pedal but last week the light stayed on for about 5 seconds and slowed me down then went back to normal.

hmmm, pads and discs seem fine. thinking sensors.. whats the procedure for checking these? any other sugetstions?

cheers

Doubt it being a sensor, would suspect a hydralic problem. Diagnosis of the system not really DIY if not conversent with ABS. Would suggest seeing an auto sparky or mechanic with a scanner to plug up to it & confirm a fault code. A 5 min job which takes out all the guess work.

hey does anybody know whch terminal on the solinoid the ground wire goes onto? top or bottom??

knocked this off while doing something else to it

cheers

There is no ground wire to the starter. Wiring being: Main battery lead, solenoid energiser, start take off wire. Last two are push on & terminals & are different sizes as are terminals on starter so only go one way. The larger of the two should have power when on start. If it does you have a crook starter, if it doesnt - check wiring

Ollie

Can do a serviced E30 starter for $90 in small configuration

Bear in mind the earlier (larger) starter fits the same & is arguably a better starter in that it is a more simplistic design & more robust than the smaller reduction type - just a bit more of a bitch to access the top bolt.

Can do serviced unit of either or

Grant

As long as ign lights dont dull out as you turn to start then it is not a battery / connection problem, no noise at all would suggest a solenoid enegiser supply problem or starter. As Roger said- check for power to energiser terminal on starter as key is on crank, if none then it is a wiring/ inhibitor switch / relay or similar problem. If power is there - as already said, try giving starter a hit, while key on start (maybe low brushes) starting then would indicate probably this problem. Otherwise you need an auto sparky.

As I said earlier - it is an internal fault within odometer, if the rest of the dash works then it is definitely NOT a fuse. As Andy has said - there are also other circuits on the same fuse as instruments

Best oil - really any quality oil ok - 10-40 rating or so, Castrol Protec or Magnetic or similar rating other brands.

If unknown when last done, best to flush coolant & replace inhibitor - making sure to use a quality one.

Auto trans - would suggest getting professionally done so that any required adjustments can be done at the same time.

Odometer - They are known to fail within the tumbler gear mechanism. Speedo is electronically driven from a transducer in the diff.

Need to dismantle cluster to confirm if repairable - either fix or replace cluster

I'm pretty sure it's the metal one from memory? But my memory is rather goldfish like.

Graeme, Memory rather goldfish like? Saw Mythbusters on TV the other day prove that goldfish do infact learn & have memory - when it came to food anyway.

Yep Thats a bit of me. Do I see subtle lines of a Bugatti in it?

It's natural evolvement mate!

All cars should end up in some sort of competition [including demolition derby's]before they go to the great rust pile in the sky

"Anyone can restore a classic,But it takes a real man to cut one up and Race it!"

Don't disagree there!!

Will be able to help soon with measurement, in process of dismantliig a 325i, probably next week.

Grant

Looks like this thread has somehow progressed from "what car next" to race cars

but the pipes are quite close together, any ideas on that??? theres a small clearance between the two, and last I recall is that their alot wider than standard piping.

My experience with cats/ resonators same as 3 pedals. You can put a fluted resonator (same shape as a coby) in which takes out the noise completely & virtually replicates the cat but without the restriction.

Is your cat single in or twin in? They can be either. If twin in - you would need to modify pipes to either be two into one each end or spread them to run two resonators in parallel.

Maybe look in the Audi/VW range - some pretty trick cars in the range these days. A4, A6?? OR like Emma said: 96 528i - they take a bit of beating

I bought two original items from a BMW dealer - bad move......expensive !!!!

I just want to know how to get the old ones off without any damage and replace them with these OEM Angel Eyes. I can see the two top screws, they're quite obvious, I just can't see the bottom ones and obviously I am reluctant to cause damage. The lights came with two short loom modifications ??? not sure were they go either. It would be easier to fit candles I think.

Pushing my luck now I know but it's worth asking, can you post me a photo of a front shot of an E39 with an arrow pointing at where to find the bottom two screws.

One more question (might as well get my moneys worth!!) what about the electric headlight adjusters ?? where do they sit in relation to the units I am taking off, do I have to transfer them over??

waiting with hammer in hand !!! rgds, AdeV

Haven't got pic handy but is very straight forward - 2 mins to remove. Inside lower screw (torx head) is in line with inside upper (parallel with). Outside lower is on engine side of rubber boot that surrounds the main bulb.

Headlight adjuster is the 4 wire plug at the centre top of the lamp - would expect new lamps to have those already.