hotwire

Again get someone with a scanner to talk to it - may well give the answer. Doesnt need to be BMW specific - most sparkys/ mechanics should have a scanner to connect to it

Anything possible but would be a bit of a mish. Would say you would have issues with wiring as a non car would not be configured for whereas the airbag wiring would intergrate in the loom of the car with.

Allan, Bit suspect as to why an 02 car should have had these problems - is your car NZ new or ex Singapore? Had an 02 Saab fresh ex Singapore at work last week with bypassed heater tap, once reconnected the tap leaked, new unit was required. Also with tape over the ducts - means that someone has had all that out before - highly suspicious - for what reason would someone go to that trouble - would seem to have no connection with a possible leaking heater/ tap if the system has been already bypassed?

As already said, easiest is to get any auto sparky/mechanic/dealer with scanner to confirm fault code -2 minuite job & eliminates guesswork/frustrasion. Apart from being a WOF requirement, it is far safer to know you have its protection if needed

Solenoid is mounted on the starter, not prone to failure, more likely to be a power supply problem to it or if not then a fault in the starter (hense giving it a hit) - worn brushes can give no warning to a no go situation -which a hit can temporarily overcome. If not conversent then best to get an auto sparky to check for you. From memory this cicuit not fused.

From memory one wire should be thicker than the other, take both off & try the thicker on each terminal (wont do any harm) but will only start (crank) on one - then reconnect the other

Doubt it being a sensor, would suspect a hydralic problem. Diagnosis of the system not really DIY if not conversent with ABS. Would suggest seeing an auto sparky or mechanic with a scanner to plug up to it & confirm a fault code. A 5 min job which takes out all the guess work.

There is no ground wire to the starter. Wiring being: Main battery lead, solenoid energiser, start take off wire. Last two are push on & terminals & are different sizes as are terminals on starter so only go one way. The larger of the two should have power when on start. If it does you have a crook starter, if it doesnt - check wiring

Ollie Can do a serviced E30 starter for $90 in small configuration Bear in mind the earlier (larger) starter fits the same & is arguably a better starter in that it is a more simplistic design & more robust than the smaller reduction type - just a bit more of a bitch to access the top bolt. Can do serviced unit of either or Grant

As long as ign lights dont dull out as you turn to start then it is not a battery / connection problem, no noise at all would suggest a solenoid enegiser supply problem or starter. As Roger said- check for power to energiser terminal on starter as key is on crank, if none then it is a wiring/ inhibitor switch / relay or similar problem. If power is there - as already said, try giving starter a hit, while key on start (maybe low brushes) starting then would indicate probably this problem. Otherwise you need an auto sparky.

As I said earlier - it is an internal fault within odometer, if the rest of the dash works then it is definitely NOT a fuse. As Andy has said - there are also other circuits on the same fuse as instruments

Best oil - really any quality oil ok - 10-40 rating or so, Castrol Protec or Magnetic or similar rating other brands. If unknown when last done, best to flush coolant & replace inhibitor - making sure to use a quality one. Auto trans - would suggest getting professionally done so that any required adjustments can be done at the same time. Odometer - They are known to fail within the tumbler gear mechanism. Speedo is electronically driven from a transducer in the diff. Need to dismantle cluster to confirm if repairable - either fix or replace cluster

Graeme, Memory rather goldfish like? Saw Mythbusters on TV the other day prove that goldfish do infact learn & have memory - when it came to food anyway.

Yep Thats a bit of me. Do I see subtle lines of a Bugatti in it?

Don't disagree there!!

Will be able to help soon with measurement, in process of dismantliig a 325i, probably next week. Grant

Looks like this thread has somehow progressed from "what car next" to race cars

My experience with cats/ resonators same as 3 pedals. You can put a fluted resonator (same shape as a coby) in which takes out the noise completely & virtually replicates the cat but without the restriction. Is your cat single in or twin in? They can be either. If twin in - you would need to modify pipes to either be two into one each end or spread them to run two resonators in parallel.

Maybe look in the Audi/VW range - some pretty trick cars in the range these days. A4, A6?? OR like Emma said: 96 528i - they take a bit of beating

Haven't got pic handy but is very straight forward - 2 mins to remove. Inside lower screw (torx head) is in line with inside upper (parallel with). Outside lower is on engine side of rubber boot that surrounds the main bulb. Headlight adjuster is the 4 wire plug at the centre top of the lamp - would expect new lamps to have those already.

I take it you are fitting replacement lamps & not angel eye rings inside existing? 4 screws to remove headlight assy - 2 up top, 2 down, torx head from memory. Disconnect all plugs & remove lamp assy There are variations of replacement lamps out there - some plug & play, some require wiring mods, if unsure best to fit then get an auto sparky to wire them. DONT throw the spanner - you may break something!!

From the agents - E36 B/L switches notorious to failure, also as already mentioned are bulb holders - if tweeking the contact - be sure to clean both holder & lamp contacts to ensure good clean connection otherwise they will continue to arc & destroy the connection

Basic layout is the same in both, yes exhaust flanges different - pre is 3 stud, F/L is 4

Rear could be a tired motor but also dry guides - try lubricating rubber guides with silicone spray - do all doors for that matter. Front - sounds like window regulator assy - they have plastic parts that break, wire can catch on the spool. Need to confirm & replace the regulator assy if need be.

Hi, Welcome aboard, great to see youre into the real cars now. Good luck with the repairs.