hotwire

It's a shear bolt - can undo with a small centre punch, then cut a slot in the head to refit with a screwdriver

PM Jochen - He may well be able to help

Yea can do -PM me

Is it sitting constantly at that level or creeping further? As already said E30's sit pretty well on half way normally. Without apraising & confirming actual temp there are several possibilties to an overheat: possibly faulty new thermostat - seen before. Partially blocked radiator, sluggish water pump, viscous fan - these could have been masked if the old thermostat was stuck open previously. Head gasket -is it using water? Possibly still an air lock -probably unlikely. First thing to do is confirm actual temperature engine is running at

Remove blanking plug each side of radio, behind are 2 allen key screws to undo -allen key or very small flat srewdriver will do, then just pull out. There will be no retro fit wiring adapters to suit that wiring loom. Need to identify & connect as required. Good luck Grant

Hi, Are you talking the internal door handle surrounds for E30? Can do in black $5 ea, let me know. cheers

Andy Flip back those square covers each side & from memory there is an allen key beneath to undo - if no allen keys a very small screwdriver will suffice. Cheers Grant

Just been pinged for a listing " E30 parts -dismantling" because it wasn't an auction but merely showing pics & welcoming Qs for parts required. This listing was amongst about 35 other listings of mine for separate parts. No contact details were included in the listing & an offer of listing an enquired about part was always made by myself which is surely not bypassing TM. - Not much anyway. Surely just another case of these guys using bully tactics & putting the screws in further. Anyone else having these issues? Grant

Are you talking the Locking control module in drivers kick panel? If so I can do a couple Cheers Grant

Does the key go right in? Is the key itself worn? If no luck I can supply key/barrel & if necessary the complete lock assy 027 6146607 Grant or PM me

Mine had factory 15"s on it,( & looked crap) was going to go to 17 but 18's became available for the "right price" & although reluctant at first- thinking I would compromise ride too much, I figured that BMW factory fitted 18's to the M5 so took a punt & now would not go back. Ride comfort hardly compromised but is certainly firmer & more precise. Tyre noise VERY minimally increased - hardly noticeable. Have to say though - tyre wear is crap in comparison to the original rubber due to being softer compound. As said previously the E39 is not in standard form a real "handler" but is still very capable & certainly enhanced with bigger alloys & less profile rubber

What model 320?

Interesting discussion going on here Agreed we don't need to be a dumping ground for Japans crap - like we have been in the past. But I think these burecrats in Wellington that are writing the rules need to wake up & smell the roses! Firstly: If theyré so hell bent on emmissions then why are we one of few countries that don't enforce catalytic converters being retained on vehicles - it's something thats been manditory in other developed countries for donkeys years. First thing the boys here do with their new pocket rockets is to remove them. Secondly: Any emmision measuring at WOFs needs to be staggered to cater for older vehicles - my old arguably classic 78 E12 520 certainly aint the most fuel efficient car (especially around town) albeit immaculately maintained & seviced, although have to say that since bolting L Jetronic injection onto it fuel economy definitly has improved. It should now be as efficient as the E30 that donated the injection to it. There are thousands of similar "classic" vehicles out there & to penalise them with a blanket emmision reading is totally unjustified, -as with mine they generally aren't every day runners either. Thirdly: Why are there no restrictions on the bringing in of commercial vehicles from Japan? We have realitively strict impact standards for cars to meet & yet these dont have to comply. Most of these are early to mid 90's 4WD diesels that are poorly maintained (as with most vehicles out of Japan) & generally behind the eight ball in diesel technology - compared with the Europeans. With an open market on importing of these all it is doing is putting more of them on our shores for people here to justify the need for one - to run the kids to school -in Auckland. Over time fuel prices will certainly impact on Joe average & dictate what he drives to a point but equally there are others out there that for them it wont be an issue & they will justify their Hummer & the fuel tanker in tow. It's called choice!

Should be no need, if air cond is charged correctly then the preset speed is enough for that. The engine is running the viscous fan for cooling purposes & this is more than adequate for engine cooling when all is working as it should - fan / thermostat etc

Ditto with previous 2

If you can hear the pump (whirring noise) for the second or so when you turn the key on thens it's unlikely to be that at fault. Pump should start again when the engine is cranking. Need a second person to crank while you listen to it à take it you are talking pre facelift - with pump under car in front of left rear wheel? Alternatively take off fuel line at front of fuel rail (ign off), turn key on briefly & check that fuel flows Check for vacuum leak - air flow meter piping etc If car dosen't go at all also check spark - plug lead off, screwdriver into lead, (NOT near any fuel obviously) hold by insulated handle with the blade about 5mm away from metal on the engine - get someone to crank over, if there is spark then probably nothing to do with dissy. You may have a crook air flow meter (AFM) - hard to confirm that one yourself Also may have flooded it, If above diagnostics ok (fuel & spark) then try holding full trottle while cranking over - I assume it is cranking ok? Good luck

The modules are known to fail, also check terminals for corrosion & clean if required, as already said - check terminals in drivers door jamb plug for corrosion. If you need another module - I have one here: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=73721461

OK guys, Stand corrected on that one, From memory the previous owner had had these wheels fitted to an E32, presumably they had been correct for that car, Do know they bolt up perfectly in line on my E39 & definitely aint got no wobble at 55mph. Certainly agree with Martyyn on the style/handling re 18" - made for the car!!

Hi, Second pic is the go - I have a set of BBS shadow chrome 18"s with 235/ 40 /18 rubber the same as those on my E39 - makes the car look staunch - silver car as well. Still maintains the same overall diameter as original factory wheels. Bought them on TM - were as new - wheels & rubber had done about 1000kms, for about 1/2 cost of new. Be aware that E38 & E39 have the same offset rim so off either is good, - E38 does have higher profile tyre though. TM still probably the cheapest place to buy as they come up. Personally after having fitted 18" I wouldn't go to 17"s on them. Cheers

Hi, You will find all E30 6 cyl alts will fit, prefacelift had rubber bushes in the mounts, the later didn't but they will interchange, 4 cyl could well be the same - not absolutely sure - if different it would only be the mount. Cheers

I have an E30 owners manual here if interested - whoops sorry misread Cheers Grant

It's the central locking module - locates lower drivers side kick panel

Double lock, (Dead lock) to my knowledge has nothing to do with immobilisation, as Carl said just dead locks the door solenoids - not allowing the door to be unlocked without the key. I have no knowledge of any wiring connection between the the lock control module & the fuel pump relay or fuel pump wiring which would be the only way of achieving this result Grant

Probably the switch on the gearbox/trans, 2 wires to switch, in reverse, key on, check for power to then through the switch. If none to then check fuse, if to & not going through - replace the switch, if power on both sides - check wiring beyond/ bulbs / connections. Cheers

Does the charge (battery light) come on with the key & go out when started?, if so then PROBABLY the alternator is working. Check battery connections between the inside of the terminal & the post of the battery, also check for ANY spark when connecting the battery - will indicate a current draw. Next option - see an auto sparky - only a 5 min job to diagnose. Cheers