hotwire

Sounds like a short in the boot light circuit probably

^^^^^ Yep or that. Meant to add that also

Jon - aware of the system but funnily enough - have never thought of nor needed to cross this bridge If using the unit Greg has suggested - still would require splitting the circuits between stop & tail. Thinking as I am writing though - this could be done by using an extra changeover relay - with the 3.3v tail supply to the above electronic relay going through the normally closed contacts whereby when brake is on - turns this relay on to open the supply to the electronic unit. You would also probably need to load the brake relay to stop it trying to activate with tail lights on

If it is "true to label" then yes it will. Some E30's came with these, That said - I have only ever had/seen Getrags in them You say "bolt up to bell housing" - the bell housing is part of the box

Nup, don't think so.

As Matt said - make sure the mirror switch is set to right (I think), if not to left. It only dips when switch is set to one side

Yep, have done a manual conversion before. A bit of a procedure to change over - a few hours work. Straight forward enough - just follow your nose on removal - reverse to reinstall

Wont work - the cig lighter is not connected to live battery supply. Meant to mention the option of battery charger/maintainer. If using one - make sure it works correctly - I have seen plenty of times where these things have cooked batteries

No it wont

Really 6 of one, half doz the other. Yes you only need to disconnect one terminal. Yes it will reset everything Batteries don't like sitting doing nothing though - nor do cars for that matter. If you don't drive it - you really need to charge the battery periodically to preserve it anyway If me - I would be driving the car once a month or so. That said, our E12 is known to sit for a couple of months between outings, with every so often - a flat battery. This too from an auto sparky that should know better. Should really practice what I preach

For a start - the temp gauge sender controls just that - the gauge, nothing else. Sender is a single wire unit at the front of the engine To test: Earth the wire & the gauge should go to high, open circuit - gauge reads low. If so - sender is faulty There is the engine management coolant sensor sitting along side the gauge one - this one a two wire unit. The resistance in this unit varies depending on water temp - high resistance when cold & low when hot - around 3k ish ohms cold & around 250 ish when hot The fan sensor is in the radiator & the fan is also controlled via air cond circuit

Great to hear it's sussed Jack. As I suspected from deveopments of the thread -rears needing adjustment. Have fun at the weekend.

Heath - yep correct, you will also loose pedal with air in the system (loosing line pressure) With held firm pedal as you describe & starting the car - the pedal will soften &drop slightly - indicating booster working. Proper pedal feel but with excessive travel, or building up to good pedal with a couple of pumps (& holding) can be due to mis adjusted brakes - rear shoes, as it is requiring more fluid to compensate for the extra travel of the shoes to drum.

Jack, if the pedal is improving - I doubt it being the MC at fault. No external leak from the cylinder is no guarantee of no fault though - fluid can still bypass the seals internally - cancelling out pressure (just had a quick glance at that link, it also mentions this) Being rear drum setup - have you checked the rear brake adjustment? They are self adjusting but this doesn't always happen. Loose shoe adjustment will also increase pedal travel. Check this! Can you pump the pedal up & if so - will it will hold firm? This can indicate brake adjustment required If rest of system is flushed & bled properly, you can change the MC without having to rebleed the whole system. Fit the cylinder & bleed that before refitting brake pipes. fit them & leave nuts 1/2 turn loose, pedal down & tighten nuts. Release pedal & repeat a few times - this will extract any air out of the ends of the brake pipes. Seriously though - make sure they are working correctly before contemplating going on the track. This is no place to find they don't work correctly

Yes, not typical but can happen. Usually from a damaged/ill fitting/removed sock. I have seen all these

Easy - pick up sh*t from the bottom of the tank My guess as above - put some more gas in first Yes the plug leads pull off, sometimes will stick. Can try some long nose pliers & twist the rubber boot around the plug (not at the top)

Bear in mind Jack - you haven't done a "full flush" - only the front, as the rear fluid is unchanged. Needs to be bled through the rear circuits to be fully flushed.

Jack you need to bleed the rear as well. It will have a bleed screw each side. The bleed screws are into the wheel cylinder on the inside of the backing plate - each side (beside the brake pipe) If re bleeding the fronts has made a difference - then it is more likely an air problem, so the rears also need doing. Regardless - the fluid needs flushing anyway. You can eliminate the M/Cyl by crimping all four brake hoses & see if the pedal is hard - if so - the M/Cyl is holding pressure. If pedal sinks - M/Cyl is at fault. And YES - you need to have reliable brakes for what you are intending - hence my first statement about consulting with someone that knows

Really depends what you are looking for - my 525i I find quite adequate - admittedly no rocket ship off the mark but still quite ok & still has long legs. And... can still get me in trouble with the law. The 530i is a very good, well balanced car & as Matt has said - generally regarded as the best & best balanced - the V8 obviously better power wise but these cars have a steering box as opposed to a rack as on the 6's & are not as true & repsonsive steerers with this configuration. If I were replacing - it would be a 530i - if not for an M5

Hey Jack, firstly - are you sure it has been bled properly? - are you sure you haven't got a crook brake line - swelling? - if both above are ok - has the master cylinder been confirmed as faulty? It may well be but not necessarilly With this one - as you sound very unfamilair with, I would seriously advise to contact someone familiar with brakes to takle this one - maybe watch/ask questions to learn. M/C is straight forward to change - remove two bolts mountiing it to the brake booster & the brake pipes There is a process to bleeding though. Also - the brake pipes have 11mm pipe nuts - & these can be a b....h to loosen - easy to bugger them without a good pipe spanner

Nup, not C104. - Ign supply to ECU/fuel pump relay Sooo Jack - Mr anonymous remains anonymous huh?

Can totally understand how all you guys have had enough. Surely you must get a break soon Good on you for the volunteering of help to others

DONT ^^^^ We are not talking an E30 here

Dare I say it Jack, but you are still going around in circles. I would have said (although possible) it would have been very unlikely to have been a faulty pump - from your description of the lead up to no start of the car. Also, as I said to you in PM - the pump in your car is not in the tank, but outside in front of the rear wheel. Your car does not have an intank pump, either low or high pressure. I am sure I can help you over the phone - as I said - phone me! Tis way easier than writing out a blurb to cover all bases for possibilities