will

How much for M80G supply only? I can't get to Akl for install.. Will

will see if I can find the adaptors for the M20 tomorrow.

don't have any of the above but have a 327 eater if you are interested??

HB youngishster.. Will

Any idea as to what type of paint it is? That would tell you what to use to get it off. Be VERY careful using any type of solvent around plastics, velor etc.

Be very careful youngster. We may be old and slow but we have years of experience on our side..!! Stealth is our friend..

Ok, will do the whole deal then, will take a little longer..

I take it you know how to remove the OBC in the first place? Or should I include how to remove it?

Give me some time, need to find one of the boards to show the mods you need to do it. Tomorrow maybe? Will

use 12v globes and wire them in parallel, have done this mod many times, it is easy. You can get the 12v globes from repco etc. Will

I'm with Gus here.. my lips are sealed for now..

You need to look for the specials down the page which offers 2 plates (1 set) for a discount. I found also that if you order 2 sets, postage is cheaper per set, but if you order 3 sets, it takes a big jump again, so 2 sets is the most economical to order. see below.. Will

definitely US$

you can do the plates yourself, it is easy. If you want more lockup, you will have to either source plates with more preload or you will need to mod the standard ones to give more load. Conrod's quote.." just buy Group 4 Escort ones, they are the same part as the BMW ones! (both ZF LSD's) " topic.. lsd's

easy way to check is to put a gas analyser probe in the water bottle while it is running (but above the water of course!). If you get a gas reading, it is blown.If you can find an engine leak tester (and someone who knows how to use it properly!!)you can determine what is wrong (gasket or crack) before you strip it. Be careful when skimming these heads, the valves are close to the piston tops standard and too much skimming can cause hitting!! If you go too high in the compression stakes you will be stuck having to use a high octane fuel, which, as Andy found during the northland meet, is not available in the wops.. Get the valves done with 3 angle cut. Opening the ports up and polishing them will show gains but is painstaking work.. need to be careful you dont break into water jacket etc when doing it. Probably best left to a pro with a flow bench imo.. Will

mate, that 327 eater has its whole life ahead of it still... nowhere near the grave YET!! It was out yesterday smoking the place up

If you want a true reading you will have to put the gauge between the supply and the equipment. However, putting it between the alternator and the battery will give you an idea of what charge rate is needed to keep the equipment going. If you know the capacity of your alternator you will know whether you are drawing max from the alternator at any one point in time.

I doubt if it would push more than 60 amps unless you current demands exceed 60 amps. If your battery is completely down it will go way over, and if you disconnect the battery while running it will do the same, go way over. The battery normally provides most of the current requirements and the alternator is really just there to keep the battery topped up. If you put it between the alternator and the battery it will show charge rate at any given time, between the battery and the car supply it will show current demand linked with supply, so may show + or - amps depending on demand at the time. Will

You going to donate the rear bit of your coupe for it??

You should have bilsteins on all 4 unless someone has got in and changed them. The front bilsteins should have a really thick piston rod, the rears should have stamping on the body even if the stickers are gone. Bilsteins casings are yellow (well, mine are anyway..) I would try putting progressive springs into your current bilstein setup for starters and try that. Progressive springs will normally take up the slack esp with the small drop you are proposing so you won't have to shorten the shocks. I'm sure you will find this setup ok for street use. my 2c worth.. Will

mate, you are a grumpy little midget!

M325i are really scarce in good condition. You will be lucky to find one under 8K. My standard one gives me around 7.5l/100k on the open road and around 9.5 around town, (driving like a human that is). If I go on a run with any of my 325's (have several, yum.. ) and give it hell, consumption has shown on the obc to be around 16-18l/100km. The M325 is the car to aim for if you want a car that goes and handles well, and the bonus is that, if looked after, will give you years of service and will probably not lose value. My opinion for what it's worth.. Will

Have you measured compressions after this rebuild? Sounds like the motor got really hot, melting sensors takes some serious temp!! Collapsed rings are a distinct possibility after really overheating the motor. Things like air leaks into the inlet manifold etc from warped manifolds can also cause a lot of problems. I would get it onto a proper BMW diagnostic machine, I used to use a high end Allen diagnostic machine on a range of cars that came into my workshop, but it was never as good as a dedicated machine. Things to check are cylinder balance, leanness, compressions, timing etc. Will

2.7 shouldn't be driven at slow speed, it is probably complaining. Put some lead in that right foot Nath!!

word..